Roundeye

If you bend that stub axle, you've done something.

You beat me to it! First thing I thought was a munchkin toilet:lol: Turbone: It will make a cool armrest/console with some mods and it will look cool installed in a car, but like it is now..... all thats missing is a little roll of toilet paper and some tiny magazines. (I'm sorry)

Dropped a valve seat. Seen it lots on old VWs. Helluva mess. Bet ya a soda you'll find a crack in the head from the spark plug hole to the recess where the seat is supposed to be.

TINK

GOOD CATCH! Give that dog a big 'ol ribeye for Rouneye:D ! F$#&!*G thieves. You should have wore his @ss out with that bat first. Say he attacked you. Get a gun. They really s#!t their pants when they see one of those staring at them. I had to run some freak off from my place a couple of months ago. Amazing how fast one can run after looking down a .357 Magnum with hollow points peeking from both sides. Glad you saved your ride.

Hey, leave KickAssFlash alone. He was not flaming. I see he is now looking for a Subie too. I once had a couple of Jeeps, but I came to the dark side. Can't say I ever had a Rustang though:D I had a Buick Grand National and a WRX....Mustangs were the ENEMY. They don't bother me now, I don't see too many of them on the trails. I like 'wheeling with Jeeps. Jeepers are some of the coolest people you will meet on the trails. I've had nothing but positive responses from them about my wagon. Plus, if you are in a Subie and you are 'wheeling with big Jeeps, you are in a no-lose situation. If you can't get over something they did, so what. It's a station wagon. BUT, if you get over something they cannot.......to them it's kindof like getting your @ss kicked by a 100 year old lady with a walker.

SOAP sample.

'87 GL Wagon, 4/4 OZified lift, LT215/85R15 TSL Super Swampers. 13 inches clearance. (at 26 PSI tire pressure)

Just as a note..... GL, DL and Loyale (RX should fit too) radiators interchange. DO NOT try to use one from an XT. It is slightly wider than the rest. Sux because I have an all metal radiator from an XT that is useless to my GLs.

I have several good used ones. I'll do you right. I may have a spare skid plate as well. PM me with your e-mail.

Are you SURE it's the right pump for that engine? If the impeller is too far away from the surface it runs against (front of engine), it won't pump. If it is right, it sounds like you may have a restriction in the engine. You can try this: Remove the thermostat and pull the radiator hoses off at the radiator. Run water into the feed hose and see if it runs out of the return. This will tell you if the engine flows water. How can the engine be clogged? If this is a used engine, it could have belonged to someone that pissed somebody off. Some instant rice in a radiator will pack the coolant passages when it gets hot. A long shot, but nothing can be ruled out at this point. Pull the heater hose off of the top of the water pump with system full. Make sure coolant gushes out. (engine NOT running of course) This ensures the pump is primed and not cavitating.

It would be hilarious. It would look like a skinny midget with funny shoes was working on your tranny. Seriously though, a buddy of mine made a shifer boot out of old jeans on his Jeep. Works good. It's tough, made to be moved around and even kept the wind and fumes out. I'd like to see the skinny midget setup.:cool:

Wouldn't be the first time any gases went through them:lol: Somebody stop me.

Use an old pair of blue jean shorts. Turn them upside-down and put them on over the sticks. Tie-wrap the legs closed around the sticks. Tuck the waist part under the opening in the carpet. Sorry, I couldn't help it.

I think you are on the right track. Check the gap between the sensor and the 3 targets. Check wiring to sensor and the sensor itself.

Trash the doors, fenders, hatch, carpet, interior and bumpers. Build a cage in it and pop the top. Install lift, tires, lights and winch. Weld the spiders in the diffs. Moshmobile:headbang:

True that. One undisputeable thing remains: A Hummer would be less capable with solid axles. Two words: Ground Clearance. Have you ever looked under one? Damn. Another example: My Subie has a couple inches more ground clearance than my Jeep Wrangler and my Jeep Cherokee had. They both had lift (which gets you no more ground clearance) and 31x10.50 tires.

For the axle shafts: 1.Cut the Subaru rear axles in half. 2. Cut the Chevy/Toyota/whatever axles in half that fit the front/rearend you are using. 3. Turn down (on a lathe) the larger diameter of the 2 halfs you have. (OR build up a sleeve for the smaller one) 4. fit (sleeve) them into a piece of 4130 chromoly DOM tubing and weld together. 5. PRESTO! : You have an axle that has a Subaru outer CV/fitting with a (insert your favorite chunk name here) inner CV/fitting. For the drive shaft: (input) 1. Cut off Subaru end of rear Subaru shaft. 2. Cut off rear of (whatever) shaft. 3. Weld on (whatever) end on Subaru shaft at correct length. This one is critical if you don't want your teeth rattled out whilst driving. And good machine shop can do this and get it true. Balancing would be in order too. Could knock it out in an afternoon. TO ALL: To clarify, I am talking about using just a diff out of an IFS or IRS setup that has locker avail. for it. Not a solid axle or any other complete rear end setup. Why? What I am looking at doing can be done without too much work and for not much $$$ with little downtime. Plus I just like 4-wheel independent suspension. And yes, solid axles are on the way out as technology improves on independent systems. Why? One definition of the word independent is: "without influence from another". Just because one tire is on an obstacle, why should the opposite one be tweaked as well? Each of the 4 tires should have it's own suspension to deal with obstacles independently.

Has anyone here looked at putting an IFS diff (like from a Chevy truck) in the rear of a Subie? Mounting the diff and building converted axles and drive shaft would not be that hard. I have found 3.90:1 ring and pinion sets. But best of all...LOCKERS. Anyone done or tried this? Only problem I could see would be direction of rotation. (or oiling problems if it was inverted)

Ah hyear ya, cod.

I don't know about your state, but here, ALL land is considered "posted". Meaning that the moment you leave a public roadway, you are on private property. If that land owner does not like you being there, he/she can have you nailed for trespassing....sign or no sign. As for me, if it's in question: If you don't see anyone around...hit it hard and get the hell out.

Mine came off in about 20 minutes. It came from the factory with bolts holding the doors on (not welded). Qualifies as removable, doesn't it? I'd have to attack that one in court. My 2003 Jeep Wrangler had nuts holding the doors on which had to be removed in order to remove the doors. If they ticketed a doorless Subie, they had damn well better be nailing every Jeep in the state as well. A good attorney could rip a ticket written on that law to shreds.

I LOVE that. And it's got doors too (sorta). Everyone should be happy. I got another idea to try with it though. I've got a spare set of doors and I'm thinking of skeletonizing them. Gut them and cut the skin of the outside in 2 panels, leaving the belt trim area and about a one inch border around the edges. Then filling the missing area with a sheet of expanded metal or something similar. I'll try one soon and post pics.

Now that is SICK! I like it. If this car was not so straight and rust free I would build a full cage in it and remove the top. So far I've done nothing to this car that cannot be easily put back. I gotta find a beater I can cut on!

Add yet another reason I will not live there. True though, laws vary from state to state. Down here we can tote guns, smoke in public and drive with no doors:drunk: