Roundeye

Did the dealer verify MAF and TPS working? You should hook up a manifold pressure gage (vac/boost) and a fuel press. gage and go drive it while watching the gages. That will tell you where to look.

That's awsome. I wrote "you poor soul" on the back side of the firewall behind the dash of my '87 wagon (and left a $1 bill attached) when I had the dash out to change a heater core. Suck part is, I'll prolly' be the one who sees it next:drunk: . I got the idea from years ago when I pulled the fuel cell out of a turbine Commander 690. (multi-engine turbine airplane). (That job is a mother #^&%er)Someone wrote "you poor tormented soul" on the bulkhead behind the cell. Got a laugh out of it.

Cool. Now put an engine back in it and get it muddy again!

Aspen White!

They are easy to take apart, but I have one that the accelerator pump will not work. I took it apart and found that the check valve seat was severely disfigured. This is located right next to the accel. pump. The accel. pump pushes fuel to a tower right next to it, this tower has a brass weight with a fine taper on it and acts as a check valve. If the seat is trashed, the carb is trashed. It is pressed into the housing and has a hole that is only a couple of thousanths. I see no way to remove it or even find a replacement seat. You may be lucky and have just a torn/worn seal on the accel. pump plunger which is an easy fix. If it's trashed, go to a Weber or buy a rebuilt Hitachi (what I did) Advance Auto Parts sells them for around $300. It hurts the wallet, but worth every penny when you turn the key!

Also check the small hose that goes from the base of the housing where the thermostat is to the intake. It's located kinda under the power steering pump. 1/4 inch hose....looks like a vac. hose. It will allow coolant to run down the front of the engine. Also look at the thermostat housing and points where the intake bolts to the heads. Another (remote) possibility is, you could have a hole in the back side of your radiator spraying a fine (high pressure) stream towards your engine. The best way is to fill it up and run it while looking it over. You will see where it is.

I'm getting a "PAVEMENT SUCKS" sticker for the back of my lifted wagon.

Yes, the clutch disc is splined as well as the trans. input shaft. It will slide right off. Just to recap: There are 2 bolts with nuts that go through the engine and trans. on the top. There are 2 studs with nuts on the bottom. There are 2 nuts to remove from the engine cross member (cradle) When you are down there, it's a good time to unbolt the exhaust. You must also remove the engine pitch rod (top center). I always yank the radiator and fan, deservice the A/C and disconnect the large low side line at the firewall (the top fitting of the evaporator) and the high side line that connects right above the ignition coil. Bag the open connections quickly to avoid trash/bugs/moisture from getting in the A/C system. I then disconnect the power steering lines at the pump (no problem later, just fill and run....add as needed after initial run) Disconnect the line clamps from the engine and move the hoses clear. Don't forget throttle cable, fuel/vacuum lines and wiring. If you have a hill holder, the cable from it to the clutch fork will need to be removed also. If it's your first time, bag and tag everything. I like getting things out of my way. It makes an engine change more enjoyable. When everything is disconnected and you are ready to yank the engine, you must lift it a little to clear the studs from the cradle mount in order to move the engine forward to clear the clutch assy' from the trans. input shaft. As mentioned earlier, support the trans. with a jack.

I have read that the regular TSL Super Swamper has a tougher sidewall making it more resistant to damage. Better for extreme off road use. The drawback is that they are hell to balance and are very prone to flat-spotting when parked for a while. I can personally verify the flat-spot thing. I had a set on a Cherokee and it took a while to heat them up and get them round again. They vibrated bad when cold. You could feel the flat spots. The TSL Super Swamper radials balance easier and ride better. I have tested my Swamper radial-equipped Subie to about 70 mph with no noticeable vibration. No flat-spotting noted. They do have a weaker sidewall than regular Swampers, but still tough as a lighter knot compared to many other tires. It's a tradeoff. Any tire with a nasty tread is going to be loud. I like it though. Freaks people out when they hear something roaring down the highway and it turns out to be a Subaru station wagon! I'm happy with my radials.

Here's one to screw everything up........ My 1985 GL Wagon with N/A engine and dual range M/T has 3.90 as well. I suppose someone could have changed the entire driveline.

They ride great. The lift is a PK Davis (a.k.a. "OZified") 4 inch lift. It uses 4" spacers above the factory struts and drops the entire driveline 3".

Thats too funny! The wife unit's '88 DL has that same dash pad in it. Bought it like that. It's even blue.

Electrical. Unless you enjoy the possibility of scorching oil on your legs and feet.

A bit of an optimist, aren't you? It could look like a big oily lump of coal.

Both of my '87 Wagons are 3.90. One is a auto S/R and the other is a manual D/R. Both are N/A.

Here is some more info on a Cherokee with a 4.7L. http://www.carpages.co.uk/chrysler_jeep/chrysler_jeep_grand_cherokee_part_2_01_12_02.asp?switched=on&echo=541633039It lists 0 to 60 at 8.3 sec. stock. I'm not calling BS on the 5.0 sec. claim, I would just like to know what mods were done to shave 3.3 seconds off the time. The above link is for a Grand (ZJ) and his is a regular (XJ) there is some difference there but that does not account for such a huge difference in times. Serious mods would have to be done. He also mentions it has a lift which means it likely has larger tires adding another obstacle to overcome. I'm guessing 400 to 500 HP required. I'm just curious what mods were done? BTW: V8 swaps have been done to XJs, there is one around here with a Chevy 350 in it. Impressive.

How much horsepower does that thing have? A laredo with 2 people is around 3500 lbs, right? Stock 4.0 is 130hp 150 ftlb tq. 4.0 HO is 195 hp 235 ftlb tq. I see you have a 4.7, a buddy of mine has one in a Cherokee. My '03 Wrangler was lighter than my Cherokee and had the 4.0 HO in it and wasn't NEAR that fast. 5.0 seconds? According to http://www.ssmoparmuscle.com/speedcomp.htm ,thats quicker than some Mustangs, Camaros, Porsches, 300ZXs, 350Zs, Corvettes, Ferraris, Lamborghinis and my WRX. Just what did you do to this Cherokee? My friends' Cherokee could benifit from your setup. Please list mods.

You really need to put gages on it. You should see around 28 on the low side and around 250 on the high side. What pressures you see can tell you a whole lot. Without knowing what your pressures are, some possible causes could be: 1. Moisture in the system causing icing in the line(s) and/or components. If this is happening, you will see ice form on the outside of the line where the restriction is. 2. Your clutch could be slipping causing the system to kick itself off. (Hitachi system) Make sure your pickup coil air gap is adjusted correctly (it's the small black box with 2 wires going to it that is mounted over the pulley of the compressor). If it kicks off because of this, you can turn A/C off for about 3 seconds and then back on again and it will start working again. 3. Your expansion valve could be sticking (most likely from what you describe). It's mounted in with the evaporator. System discharge and evaporator removal required to change it....good time to convert to R134. Try to find out what your pressures are and post them here. Include the outside air temp at time of readings too. Myself or someone else can help you alot more with that info.

Just got them installed. I had to do some minor trimming of the fenders (at the bottoms) and some clearancing with a hammer. MAN it made all the difference! BTW, they are LT215/85/15 TSL Super Swampers. Got them from National Tire and Rim in WV. $85 each.

Small pair of vice grips. Much cheaper and will NOT fall on your head.

Thanks for the info. Should I leave the connectors swapped? Also, whats wierd is my owners manual says that the light will come on each 60,000 miles. Mine came on at 110,000. Go figure. Should be 60k, 120k, 180k...etc.... Strange.

Tonight, on the way to the bar , my 1987 GL Wagon (S/R 4WD) rolled 110,000 miles on the clock. At the same instant the "EGR" light came on. Haynes and Chiltons mentions nothing of this and does not even show that circuit in the wiring diagrams. My factory owners manual mentions that the EGR warning light is used on 4WD Federal Emissions-equipped cars. It only says that if it comes on, have it checked at your local authorized Subaru dealer :-\ . (Yea right....I'll be right there.) So, how do I turn this light off? (besides drilling a small hole in the lens and assaulting the bulb with a pick ) Second, how does this warning circuit work?

PM me and make me an offer.

1987 GL D/R 4WD with 4" OZified lift. 215/75/15 tires on Toyota 4X4 Truck rims (early 90's).

I've got a set of heads from a N/A 1985 MPFI EA82 that I took out of a 1985 XT GL.