Roundeye

Man, that would be cool. I'd love to do a roundeye conversion to my cars!

O.K. After seeing the SS Subaru pics (very bad), it gave me an idea. We have all seen pics of nice Subies....now let's see the worst. Here is mine. A $100 tornado victim. It was stripped of all good parts and used as a container to haul off tons of scrap metal . BTW, this car was WAY beyond repair. Mother Nature took out alot of agression on this poor Subie. I found pieces of the tail lights under the dash! Gravel STUCK IN the seats. Glass EVERYWHERE.

I just fixed my '87 Wagon's oil leak(s). Mine was leaking from the head gasket at the bottom right where the oil passage is. Found to be a bad head gasket. A friend of mine's '87 Wagon is leaking in the exact same spot as mine was, I'm about to fix it too. I pulled the engine and replaced every oil seal and gasket on it along with timing belts, tensioners, water pump and hoses. (it's crazy not to since the engine is out anyway). Leaks from the head gasket WILL go right on to the exhaust, oil gets blown back right onto the pipes (if it's leaking from the pass. side, it will put oil right onto the catalytic converter resulting in MUCH smoke from beneath). What really sucks is that since the exhaust pipes and cat are shielded, oil gets indide the shields and bakes on. This cannot be cleaned off, it must burn off. So it will smoke some even after it's fixed...until the residual burns off. Flourecents are a great way to pinpoint hard-to-find leaks. All Shell (unsure about Exxon and Mobil) aviation oils (and greases) contain flourecent additives. I found this out by accident one day while doing a dye-penatrant inspection around an engine on a Cessna. I have used this finding for trouble shooting difficult leaks ever since, even on cars. Clean the engine nicely, change oil using a couple of quarts of Aeroshell, get a blacklight and look the engine over at night while it's running, or take a short trip and check it over with the light. Origin of leaks will be obvious.

How do I get in touch with these guys? I found the website, but no contact info.

Oh. Clutches don't make good compost, but that thing needs to go in some kind of waste bin. TOASTED!

What are those things laying on.......an ugly coffin or a turned over port-a-john?

In that case, do what I did. Soak that dude regularly with Mouse Milk (or PB Blaster). Then, I took a grade 8, 9/16" bolt with a tall head and welded it into an impact socket so the head sticks out. Used it in my 1/2" impact. Came right out. If that fails, do as previously posted.

You could try heating the area up around the plug then cool the plug with dry ice. If you have already drilled and destroyed the plug, you could use a large (9/16") easy-out. If all else fails, weld a large nut to the plug and take it out that way.

As mentioned, you can't go wrong with an Optima. As for oil, I use Valvoline. 10W40. No problems.

Good idea. I have put it in the Engine Articles.

The bearing in the accy' belt idler pulley is a 6202 2RSJEM manufactured by SKF. Any industrial bearing suppier should be able to get these. I have 3 different styles of air conditioning compressors mounted 2 different ways with 2 different kinds of idler pullies. These all take the same bearing mentioned above. The bearing for the L/H timing belt idler gear (located just outboard of the oil pump) is the same bearing used in the serpentine belt idler pulley on Jeep Wranglers and Cherokees with a 4.0L straight six. It's also used in the oil cooler on a Bell UH-1 HUEY (don't ask ) I'm working on a bolt-on conversion for the timing belt tensioners that are made-as-one. I bought a new set of tensioners that have replaceable bearings, but all of my old ones will not come apart. You can get the pulley off of the bearing but the bearing is a permanent part of the mount plate.

Speaking from experience?

It looked alot worse in the car. You could easily rock it with one hand.

You would need aloooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooot of lift for those:drunk: Nice Wagon. Really like the color.

I've got some good pics if you want them.

Clutch in and roll straight. Just a stab, but.....are all of your tires the same size?

Did you remember to leave a little something for the next guy?

Thanks.

I live in L.A. (Lower Alabama) I tried to e-mail PK.

That's who I e-mailed. 5 days and no response.

Does anyone have a phone number to contact BYB? I have sent a couple of e-mails and have gotten no response.:-\ I'm ready to order.

Very easy. 30-45 min for 5 rims. Took an extra hub and knocked out 2 studs accross from easch other, bolt it up to the rim and mark the holes. Started off with a 1/8" bit and stepped up a few sizes each time until I got to 1/2". Slightly tapered each hole (3/4" taper bit) and GO! I used a 1/2" hand-held drill. Mine has a built-in level on it and I was drilling the rim on a known-level surface, so the holes turned out true. TIP: Use a drill with an extra handle and HOLD ON. Things can get nasty when that 1/2" bit grabs! BTW: Thats a nice Wagon you've got there! And Turbo to boot! . Where did you get the roof rack?

Got some Toyota 4x4 15x6 rims from the local JY. I chose to drill the rim rather than the hub as the rims are about 1/8 inch thicker than the hub. Easy mod!! Drilled the holes to 1/2 inch then used a taper bit (to center the lug nuts). Total cost : $79.00. This picture is with them installed on a '87 D/R 4WD Wagon with NO LIFT. The tires are 215/75/15 (27"). Minor scrubing. This combo WILL NOT WORK without lift. Tires will have too much contact with fenders off road. (Looks cool though). I had to put my old wheels back on until I get OZIFIED:banana: (coming SOON).

Here is one of my Wagons getting an undeserved beating.......climbing over a downed oak tree. I felt the floorboard raise up an inch or two when I went over it

Found a 1982 4WD Wagon in a local junk yard. Will the drivetrain parts interchange with a 1987 4WD Wagon? BTW: It has the 3rd eye behind a flip-up cover in the grille if anyone needs one.