Jump to content
Registrations ×
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Registrations

gpilot

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    15

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by gpilot

  1. gpilot
    ***SOLD*** Well, timing is everything as they say... I began my spring cleaning today. I have these from an 89 xt6, I sold the xt4 before getting to this conversion. Front knuckles , L + R, with 5 lug hubs. Bearings good, seals will need to be replaced Front calipers, L + R Rear backing plates Rear calipers L + R Front brake rotors (2) Rear hubs with the 5 lug hub and stub axle (2). Bearings good but same with the front seals, you will want new ones. Surface rust on the parts, they have been sitting for 8 years (indoors) but nothing deep.Rotors have plenty of wear left. Most of the bolts and hardware. I was going to post here, I haven't been on this forum in years and say your post. PM me if interested, I do have a photo. If I do not hear from you I will probably post in the for sale section. Greg
  2. gpilot

    Greetings: I'm sorry this is late, I don't get emailed when someone posts a visitor msg. Can you email me direct at (email received) if you still want it, I will get a shipping quote and then we can discuss it. Greg

  3. gpilot

    Greetings: The RX rear hatch you asked about does still have the spoiler attached. gpilot

  4. gpilot

    Chuck: Sorry for the late reply, didn't check on here for a while. Yes, I have the PS pump and bracket. Pls PM if you still need it, if you can't PM send me another message, I'll check in later.

  5. gpilot

    Mudpup: I can wrap the RH trim piece in paper (it weighs 12 oz and the limit for first class is 13 oz), so a box will make it too heavy.....cost 3.50, or send in a Priority mail box for 5.50, your choice. Sorry it took so long to get back to you.

  6. gpilot

    Jason: I did receive your last email. I will try and reply again, also will send from USMB , so please excuse the duplicate. My paypal is REMOVED; You would be doing me a favor if I could ask you to send the money as "other" rather than "goods" or "services", it will save on paypal fees. Please email me directly when you send the paypal. If I get it by tomorrow PM I can ship Friday, otherwise not until Tuesday. Again, please accept my apology for my first reply not reaching you. Greg

  7. gpilot

    Mudpup: I looked at the car today, while the lower air-dam type trim piece (between rear axle and bumper) is gone, the flat upper one is still on the car. Let me know?

  8. gpilot

    Greetings: Re: the RX taillights, I checked on Fedex ground, shipping to your zip will be 14.00. How's 30.00 for the pair sound? (44 shipped) PM if interested, I will give you my paypal. Thanks!

  9. gpilot

    Numbchux: Did you find your rear struts? If not I have a set of an RX 4wd turbo. PM if interested. gpilot

  10. gpilot

    Greetings:

     

    I tried sending you a PM, did you get it? For some reason it is not in my sent items folder.

     

    I looked at the trim piece, it is excellent, no cracks. Shipping should be 10 to 15 dollars, depending on how I pack. PM me an offer, if we make a deal I will pull it. If there is hidden damage we can cancel the deal.

     

    Please PM or reply "gregpilotATborg1DOTcom

     

    Thanks

  11. gpilot
    Thanks for the info! That opens up a local option to find a 2wd. Funny how Subaru gives them different part numbers, 4wd vs 2wd.
  12. gpilot
    Greetings: I need to replace the driver's side rear shock on my wife's 88 Justy 4WD. Looking for info, are the 89 - 94 different than the 87 - 88? How about the difference with and without 4WD? It would make my search much easier if there were more options for a donor car. I bought one from the local boneyard from their last 4WD, but it was shot. Wanted ad placed here in Classifieds. Thanks for your help.
  13. gpilot
    Need4speed: I received your PM however your box is full. The 3.7 diff is being re-assembled as an open diff and being put back into the donor car. I was thinking about selling the whole car for 500 or so, but I may part it out. The car needs a lot of TLC, but if I decide to part it out, are you saying you want to make an offer on the 3.7 diff (its not LSD anymore)?
  14. gpilot
    Greetings: I am in a similar situation. Had to replace the compressor on my xt6. Have a look here: http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_prod.html. Specifically, their R12A is a direct replacement for R12. Supposed to actually cool better than R134 or R12. Its an alkane type refrigerant, be sure and look at the conversion charts on the site because it requires 1/3 the amount by weight of r12a to replace an empty r12 system. The only drawback is that some people would say r12a is flammable, whereas r12 is not. However r134 is also flammable, its flash point is 1411 degrees at 0 psi and 368 degrees at 5 psi. R12a has a flash point of 1585 at both pressures. They suggest you do not mix refrigerants, however you do not have to replace anything to run r12a! Good luck.
  15. gpilot
    Thanks, everyone. Makes it a little easier. (:-)
  16. gpilot
    Greetings: I frequent the xt6 site alot however there are many subs which share the same rear diffs. I have seen the two posts on the USMB which cover this, here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66430 and here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49919. Got a minute? I have disassembled two diffs, the 3.7 LSD from an 89 RX and a 3.9 open diff from my 89 xt6. (actually the one off my parts xt6). There appears to be no problem doing the swap, both ring gears have the same bolt size and patterns and there appears to be no metal which has to be removed in the 3.9 case to fit the LSD innards. However all four end caps (or the aluminum caps with the outer races in them have) two gasket type shims on each of them, I have not measured them yet but they appear identical. The two links above both suggest keeping the 3.9 caps with the 3.9 case. No problem. Here's my question: Since both diffs have about 150K miles on them, do these outer races get worn a little, maybe suggesting removing a shim? There is a very complicated formula in the fsm which uses numbers stamped on the ring gear, diff innards, and measurements from the bearings to determine the number of shims. Too fussy? Is the fsm overkill? How much endplay is OK when everything is assembled minus the rear cover? Really seems to me these diffs are overbuilt so maybe any bearing wear is not an issue? Thanks for your thoughts.
  17. gpilot
    A little late for me, but thanks for posting this. My first time doing this a couple of years ago was on my own with just a Haynes manual. BTW. when installing the new bearings, put them, greased, inside a plastic baggie and put in the freezer for several hours. They will slip right in...with light tapping with a piece of PVC just smaller OD than the bearing, or use the ground outer race as someone suggested. MUCH easier for those of us without a press.
  18. gpilot
    (duplicate post deleted)
  19. gpilot
    That blue wire which is not part of the regular bundle was installed as part of a recall on the ps unit. It is supposed to be connected. There are some posts on subaruxt.com regarding this, try a search on "power steering recall". If you want me to I will have a look at mine and see where it goes. good luck gm
  20. gpilot
    Assuming your heater core is not completely plugged, here is the easy way to fix it. Worked for me on an 89 RX and 86 GL wagon. As you probably know, the heater core has continuous circulation regardless of the position of the temp control. Go to http://www.rydlyme.com, get a gallon of their descaler. It is fairly mild as far as chemicals go, and won't attack the metal in your core. Find a cheap submersible pump (a small one, maybe 1-2 gpm, I found one on ebay). Disconnect both heater hoses (near the rubber bell housing plug (at least on the EA-82), and hook up two hoses w/ appropriate size hose couplings to the hoses from the heater core. Connect one hose to the output of the submersible pump. Leave the other line (return line) alone. Put the pump inside a stainless or plastic pan, place the return line inside the pan, fill with water, and flush out the coolant. You may have to change out the water with fresh once or twice. I am not sure how the Rydlyme reacts with coolant, hence the flushing. Even if the pump flows only a trickle, (badly clogged core) give it time to flush clean. If you can't get any flow at all, this method will not work. (A stronger pump *may* help, but some flow, even a trickle, is needed) Empty the pan, replace with the Rydlyme (full strength) , and pump until the return flow appears unrestricted. I pumped mine for 24 hours. More time will be required if yours is flowing poorly. This worked perfectly for me, no time wasted getting to the core to R&R it (I am told it is a ***** of a job). Good luck! Originally posted by me on xt6.net 11/19/05
  21. gpilot
    Be careful if you have an 87 or 88 Justy. My wife got one, and I put 13 inch Honda wheels on it. (4 x 100mm) But the rear wheel well area on the 87 and 88 is smaller than the 89+ years. I had to remove about 1/2 to 1 inch of body material from the front outer portion of the lowermost part of the well area to avoid tire rubbing when the suspension was compressed (bumps). Also had to cut some of the plastic from where the rear bumper fits on the aft outer part of the well. As this is strictly a driver I wasn't too concerned with cosmetics. The front tires posed no problems. I could have repaired the areas I did surgery on to look stock however wasn't worth the effort. The 13 inch wheels/tires perform much bettter in snow than the 12 inch. Of course a lower profile tire might have helped but my main reason for doing this was to get a longer circumference overall for snow. Good Luck!
  22. gpilot
    Thanks, WJM. I did not realize there was a database which tracked recall work on individual cars. gm
  23. gpilot
    All_Talk: (Gary): Any chance you could re-post the strut chart above in a somewhat less compressed .jpg format? Or a link? It is a little fuzzy when enlarged or printed. Thanks!
  24. gpilot
    Greetings all: I have lurked here for a while, we live in the mountains of NW Montana and have a Justy, XT4 turbo project, and a GL wagon. Great snow cars! My question is this: I just bought my wife an 1988 Justy, 4wd MT. There was a recall long ago re: the oil dipstick for the MT. I am led to believe the older dipstick was calibrated such that underfilling was likely, which led to bearing problems with the rear output shaft bearings. How do you identify the newer dipstick replaced by the recall? I am keeping the gearbox slightly overfilled in case I have the old dipstick. Thanks for any suggestions! gm
×
×
  • Create New...