Setright

I second Lame's motion. If ultimate braking performance is not important and you want you pads to last long, then stick with Brembo replacement discs. Any grooved disc is going to decrease pad life. (Ultimate braking is like when the pads are so hot, the whole cabin reeks)

I mounted a set of Hella FF75 Driving lights on my old Legacy BC7, and they added significantly to the total light output. People/animals in the distance, say 900ft away would be visible, despite not wearing any refelective clothing - damn animals... ;-) There were no stock lights there, so I plumbed them into the main-beam via a relay to the battery, using some thick wiring. This might not be strictly necessary if the car has stock fog wiring, but it's a good idea anyway, since you might want to use high wattage bulbs in the driving lights - keep it legal though. I am now working on replacing those on my Impreza and intend to use Hella again. There are kits available from places like Prodrive.com, but they are EXPENSIVE and I don't know if they fit the Forester bumper. Have a look at http://www.geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/ for pics of my Legacy lighting.

Fuel delivery. Start with filter, move on to the regulator (on the end of the fuel rail), and check the in-tank pump, too.

What I meant was: Once you've had your first "entering a corner too fast" accident, you tend to recognize the signs a car gives when you're overcooking it in the future. You realise earlier in the bend that you need to scrub speed off, and this can give you valuable time to do so by braking VERY gently or lifting off the gas and letting the rear tyres squeal a bit as you turn the steering wheel some more. First time you experience real run-wide understeer you tend to stomp the brakes, and this is NEVER the right thing to do. Personally, I toppled a fire hydrant during my lesson...

Prodrive says 52mm.

Yes sir! Keep silicone off the paint, but certaily smear it all over your seals. It works, and doesn't deteriorate the seals. I have been using it for over a decade and never damaged anything. I have however, successfully rejuvenated some very tired looking seals with it. From faded light grey, back to black!

Glad you weren't hurt. That's always the most important thing! Have you had any one-car accidents before?

Yep, removing back-pressure will tend to reduce low end torque. And going overboard will reduce high-end power, since the engine will rely on the exhaust piping to maintain gas flow out of the cylinders. Too large a pipe and the gas will move to slow to "scavenge" the cumbustion chamber leftovers, and no amount of race-cam profile will help.

check out the wheels section on prodrive.com, they list the offset. Oh, and they know what they're talking about!

Ian, doesn't Selleys make a similar product? When I lived in Singapore I had some good experiences with their prodcts - admittedly, this was ten years ago :-)

Be smart, walk away. If you buy it you will kick yourself for it later on. Trust me, I have been stuid in the past...and it has cost me a bundle :-(

Weak main bearings were irridicated from 1991. The shift from 2nd to 3rd is slow and baulky on all Subes. Even my 2000 Imp!

Get under the back seat and disconnect the fuel pump, start the engine and run until it stalls. That way the fuel pressure will have dropped and it wont squirt out when you undo the filter hoses!

WELL! It seems that again I am one small step ahead. I have bought a "Ninja" muffler via www.scoobyworld.co.uk and although they claim it isn't "intrusive in the cabin"....it is intrusive. However, I can't be absolutely sure, since I haven't been able to get a 100% gas tight seal between muffler and the standard mid-pipe. After spending every evening last week under the car, trying different sizes and types of gasket only to find that each time it still leaked after a few miles, I have just ordered a new mid-pipe. The car is only four years old but the flange has rusted so much that the edges are frayed and there is not enough surface to seal against :-( Not even firegum could help. I am going with a standard item, since I don't want to have problems getting the mid-pipe to seal against the cat system..... My point? Examine the entire exhaust system before you buy anything. And if you don't want a loud car, make sure the pipe exiting the muffler is no more than 2.5 inches - the 4.5 inch on my Ninja creates a VERY low rumbling sound. Cool at idle, tiresome on the move...except above 4000rpm where the sound is very race car. There is a discernible gain in torque above those same 4k revs, no doubt the car is faster. Good luck :-)

This is just an idea: Your airflow sensor might be damaged. Do you have a non-standard intake system?

Dang it! Can´t access a digital camera, so I´ve done it the old fashioned way and drawn a diagram for you! Please excuse my handwriting, my block letters always look like they were drawn by a three-year-old :-) (And my cursive might prove unreadable) SCAN0163_000.pdf

Read this thread again: Someone is mixing up Redline 75W90 and 75W90NS

Okay, in short terms my system is like this: The normal intake is blanked off. And I have run an aluminium pipe from the big box on the intake, into the fender cavity. Simple as that. Still, a picture is worth a thousand words, so I will look into taking a few photos this afternoon (Europe) and posting them here :-) Don't worry about the bends in the intake, and go for a panel filter, not a cone, especially if you don't want too much noise!

PVC pipes flex to much, they cave-in during WOT and create that plastic pipe echo that makes the car sound like you modded it at home - which you did.By the way, that resonator box I was talking about sticking a velocity stack in looks a quite narrow in the photo. You might need to extend it with a pipe to reach into the fender cavity.

Blitz, I could not agree more on the importance of avoiding that intake drone! I have tried a whole host of things with my EJ201 - same intake as in the pic - including a pipe directly from the filter box across the engine bay into the fender cavity. Despite using a velocity stack opening, there is too much echo and drone at full throttle. I have settled on the following: Undo the front bit, one bolt and snap it out of the intake pipe. Block off the hole in the bottom of it. Save for re-assembly. Undo the large resonator box, the first one that attaches to the bottom of the intake pipe. One bolt, a rubber grommet in the fender, and it should snap out of the intake pipe - don't break it, we're gonna use it! You may notice that there is a second fender hole, behind the one that's blanked off with a plastic snap-in plate. Mark the relation of the second hole on the side of the resonator. Find a velocity stack/intake trumpet, motorcycle stores will most likely have some short ones, meant to be bolted straight onto carburators. 62mm diameter is ideal, not much room for anything larger. (2.5 inches) Drill a hole slighty larger than the velocity stack, like 66mm, in the side of the resonator that faces the fender hole. Cut a piece of rubber hose to correspond to the circumference of the hole and split the hose down the middle, open it up and use it to line the hole. Squeeze the velocity stack into the hole, and leave it sticking out at least an inch. Re-attach everything and enjoy the following advantages: 1) Looks stock, inspectors and police won't suspect anything. 2) Low end torque is still there 3) Oh, did I forget the RACE CAR INDUCTION NOISE at full throttle above 4000rpm?? 4) There is very little noise at part-throttle - who spends time here? 5) ZERO extra noise at cruise. Forget any hopes of using vehicle speed to force feed the intake, you need a turbo- or supercharger to do that :-)

The ABS pump is out of the loop during normal conditions, so a power bleed will not damgage anything. However, the small amount of fluid inside the pump will not be flushed out. I recommend flushing as normal. Then take the car for a drive find a dirt road where you can get the ABS activated easily under braking. Then drive home and flush the system again. Most dealers don't bother with this, and those that know about it usually have a device that they connect up to the ABS pump so it pulses during a standstill, and they don't have to drive the car. Honestly, I would suggest flushing the system once, then drive for a year and flush it again. Then again the next year....the amount of fluid in the ABS is quite small. Only worth flushing if you really can sense the difference.

Check the ground connections at the lights and horn.

Well, allow me to throw a bucket of cold water on you! I agree totally, Synthetic is the way forward - unless you don't intend to keep the car for a long time.

Hmm, on my 1990 model Legacy they were just stuck on with double sided tape. That's what I used to re-attach them after a rust job, and they haven't fallen off.

I just finished weeks of "development work" on my recently acquired Impreza, but its a Euro 2.0, and I think your 2.2 has a different intake system. Could you take a picture of your engine bay and post it? Or find a similar pic on the internet and post the link. I'll gladly share my experience - I spent many hours perfecting an intake for my previous car, a 2.2 Legacy, which is probably similar to your Impreza.