Setright

Lots of penetrating oil (WD-40, RP-7, that sort of thing), wait for at least twenty minutes and tap it gently with a softface hammer.

Don't upset the balance of a working engine! But keep the HG set handy, and put money aside for the day it might blow.

I am jumping on the head gasket bandwagon. Don't bother doing a compression check, the leak is likely to be tiny and won't show up. That's why when you replace stuff in the cooling system, and purge the air out, the car will run fine for a while, but the overheating will come back. Just keep an eye on it, don't run it hot and dry, a blown gasket is one thing, but you don't want to warp the heads!

FIRST: You must wind down the window, and remove the "sail" from the side mirror mount. Pops off. Keep the window down

EJ22 was available in Europe and most of Asia

The blocks for the na and turbo EJ22's are different. The turbo is closed deck. Other detail differences, like forged pistons, bearing material and so on. Basically, you cannot expect the same reliability from turbocharging a na engine.

Get the Sube part number for the correct year, and the dealer will be able to tell you if 94 parts are compatible.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I DO NOT disassemble the caliper until I have pushed the pistons back. And the front I use a large G-clamp to push on the outside pad and the caliper housing inside. This way, you don't run them skew, because the two sliders are helping to keep things straight. Hands are enough on the rear. Sometimes I dont get them far enough in, wont fit over the new pads, then it's back to the G-clamp and push directly on the piston. At this stage it is far enough back in the cylinder to avoid skew.

I think non-proprietary HG's would be a good idea. Can't be worse anyway. Point of Interest: My recently aquired Impreza, EJ201, has very thin metal gaskets, only two layers and less than 1mm thick.

What a load of tosh! I agree that some people blindly trust a certain marque in an irrational way. HOWEVER! Most of us here want well sorted 4WD in a car with normal ride height, at a reasonable price. Some of us really need it to This side of a Carrera4 there is no other marque that will offer a boxer engine and permanent 4WD. Even if I could afford it - win a lottery for examle - I would be reluctant to buy a Porsche. The Cayenne is a disaster for their image amongst their regular following. I understand that it is selling well and will help the company turn a profit, but by appealing to the whole SUV/SAV generation of berks they have alienated people like me, who have known Porsche to put handling above all else, no compromise. Except of course for the VW engined 924 way back in 1975, but at least this helped them make some money in a respectable way and spawned the 944 Turbo! Whoa there, Setty, getting off topic....

There is some sort of coolant additive that should help things. An official fix apparently. Do a search on the board...

Shocks, or dampers to a guy like me with an British education, will not affect ride height. You'll need new springs for that. H&R springs make a set for the Legacy Turbo. They are quite a serious outfit, I have talked to their techs on the phone - in my best German - and they don't mess around.

I have stolen my alias! From Leonard J.K. Setright of CAR Magazine fame

Someone on the board had success with bleeding the system by removing the throttle body coolant hose - but yours is bypassed right Josh? - since its the highest point in the cooling system

Yep, the internal leak is to be expected, even if we cannot call it common. In fact, I wouldn't consider this a weakness, since the leak is tiny and you can actually run for a long time with. Just keep adding coolant.... Seriously though, this sort of non-critical HG failure is otherwise the reserve of Mercedes and BMW, most other marques blow water into the oil and often oil out the engine!

Battery disconnect for an hour. Idle the engine up to operating temp. Switch off. PRESTO!

The main cause of brake judder is uneven pad material deposits on the disc surface. Discs and pads wear into eachother and a brand new set of pads won't mate well with used discs. Generally, discs will last two sets of pads, with a resurface inbetween. Trust me on this one. You don't want your brakes vibrating in a few weeks, because you will have to dismantle everything again and you can't re-use the pads. Well, you shouldn't. At least I wouldn't, but I do have rich experience in this area. And I like my brakes to work REALLY well. Not because I drive like an idiot, but because everyone else does

I believe all EJ engines have PCV valves. Replace it with an original part, cant trust the spring pressure in non-genuine parts. Basically, go for Sube parts on all the small, cheaper things. The quality is high and you can rest assured that all the relevant parameters are set correct. Oil filter by-pass valve for example. You don't want that opening too early!

Sorry to rain on your parade, but if the sound has appeared by itself, ie. not in conjunction with a coolant change, then you probably have an internal headgasket leak. Compression gas is seeping into the coolant through a tiny hole. Usually too small to be exposed in a compression test. I suggest that you park the car with the front slightly higher than the rear. Let it cool right down, open the radiator cap and the bleeder screw (opposite side to the rad cap) and put the heater on full blast. (Just the temp, not the fan!) Brim the radiator with coolant. Make sure the expansion bottle is filled between the FULL and LOW marks. Also, remove and flush the overflow hose to make sure it isn't blocked. Start the engine and let it run at fast idle, don't touch the throttle. Once the revs are down to normal idle speed, a little throttle massaging may be used to heat up the engine a little faster. Keep an eye on the coolant level, as the engine warms up it will expand and eventually start to overflow. Thats when you screw in the bleeder and shortly after the rad cap. This will bleed most of the excess air out, the rest should find it's own way out via the overflow bottle. Now, drive the car and keep a watchful eye on the temperature and coolant level. An HG leak like I described above will often cause overheating AFTER a long high speed run.

Replacement part no: 22060AA031 -revised sensor, white connector.

The only time you need a wrench to loosen an oil filter is the FIRST time you do it! After that, you only tighten them with a firm grip by hand and they come off by hand in the future - don't forget to smear fresh oil on the rubber seal. Oh, and save yourself some money, bang a screwdriver into the filter housing and use that to rotate it off. Not elegant, not clean, but effective.

My own personal intervals for those things are as follows: 62k replace the fuel filter 31k replace the spark plugs 31k replace the air cleaner Once a year replace the brake fluid At 62k the timing belt also needs replacing, and this brings along with it the crank and camshaft seals and whatever else seems worn once the front is open anyway. Be gentle on the plugs, don't tighten them to much, they only need about 15Nm.

If the ABS light comes on there is a fault somewhere - possibly in the circuit that switches on the light Jokes aside, the light means that the ABS will NOT function, it's off. Most common cause is broken or dirty pulse rings, which you need to check from behind the brake disc. If these are okay, then maybe a wire connecting to one of these sensor assemblies is broken. Sometimes, a faulty brake hose will trigger the light. Check all the brake hoses, if one or more is "ballooning" then the ABS computer gets confused because the brake line pressure fluctuates wildy. If none of the above, then it might - God forbid - be an internal fault in the ABS computer

You might want to try a different oil, like Mobil 1. Or some sort of oil system cleaner, because you might have blocked oil galleries. This would starve the lash adjusters. Get under the engine and examine the area around the oil pump, maybe a seal is leaking and you're loosing pressure here? (I would like to point out that here in Europe we can get a 5W-50 M1, so please don't crucify me because the 5W-30 stuff available stateside is too thin!)

Wheel alignment is most likely the problem. I would suggest replacing all the bushings in the suspension, many will be too soft due to aging and some might even be cracked. Then have the wheels aligned - don't bother doing this with old bushings. If your car has a limited slip diff in the rear, then MAYBE this might be causing your yaw problems.