Setright

Do you trust your luck?? If you don't replace them they will leak

You might be best off flushing the system with tap water. The lime scale will bind itself to the detergents of the old coolant. Drain, fill with tap water, run at idle with the rad cap and bleeder off. Drain again. I recommend leaving the block plugs in, instead remove the thermostat housing and thermo to drain. New gasket and thermostat would be a good idea too. It took me about 1000km to get all the air out of my EJ22 after the last flush - and my rad is only two years old.

May I recommend STP Copper Grease? Contact points between pad and caliper/piston, and a tiny amount in the pad "rail". Shhhh!

Lack of heat in the cumbustion chamber, mainly. Pistons take a little while to heat up and expand and lose their oval shape. This must affect blowby, and hence the PCV system feeds more gases back into the intake system...cough..cough...cough. The cold will also affect the cumbustion itself, "robbing" heat energy from the explosion and making it less uniform. A carb makes these things more obvious than EFI because the metering is less accurate. I would recommend replacing the PCV valve, to make sure it stays shut a idle. Checking the hoses and then going on to check on the EGR system - if the car has one?

Yeeeha! Show those Germans who's the boss!

Okay, sure, Bob has some interesting things to say. I am a big fan of the question everything "they" tell you theory. I practice this myself, and it's funny how most people get annoyed with me for never taking things at face value ANYWAY: Bob's site full of questionable theories and tests. At least he doesn't claim that they are all scientific, but even so people reading on his site will tend to take them as such. Example? The "timken" machine or whatever it's called. This thing is USELESS. The force is applied BY HAND, making it impossible to be certain of the actual pressure on the test elements. It also makes it easy to produce the results you want. Staying with this machine, the test is irrelevant. Where in our engines does a point of contact exist that represents only a fine point? The cam lobes haves lines, and most every oil lubed bearing has a plane contact patch. Okay, if there is enough pressure on the plain bearings the force is exerted though a line. You might argue that if the oil can protect in the timken it must be able to protect better in an engine, since there is less stress on the film. I would say that this overdimensioned design feature, will compromise the oil's performance elsewhere. If you look at M1's competitors, they always make a big issue of doing far better in the ball-bearing test/timken test. Ask yourself why?

BM should have "only" 170 bhp if it's a stock engine. The 136bhp in our EJ22's have the advantage - for some of us! - of being put to full use from standstill through the AWD I wasted a Golf GTi yesterday

They are definitely up there, Ian. They may be rolled into other parts of the wiring harness. Mine were a real pain to find the first time too. They weren't taped over. Remove the plastic panel below the steering column, five screws I think, it will allow more light in, and get you a better view of all the spaghetti

http://www.geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/mp3/ This is before I modded the intake...one underbonnet recording, one inside the cabin. Enjoy...

Engine off, pump the brake to relieve the booster of vacuum. Pedal should become harder. Rest your foot on the brake as you start the engine, the pedal should drop further toward the floor. If this happens, then the booster is most likely okay. Your problem could sound like faulty seals on the pistons in the master cylinder, but since you replaced the MC...? Check the condition of your brake hoses, the ones that lead from the lines to the caliper at each wheel. If the reinforcement inside these hoses separates a "ballon" will form on the hose and will be easy to see. It will also give a very spongy brake pedal.

bump

For starters, remove the "intake resonator" that lives inside the passenger side fender. Replace it with a short pipe with a trumpet/velcoity stack end - you should be able to cut up the old resonator and use that pipe. Air inside the fender is cooler than inside the engine room, so keep the end of the pipe in there! It will hurt low end torque slighty, like below 2500rpm. Top end will be far more reponsive and if make sure you use a velocity stack the noise will be music

Could be flow related. Like the 13/16 flows more fluid, and is designed to work with larger pistons. Just my thoughts, not facts..

Hi everyone, I am going to look at 1993 Legacy Turbo, Euro 2.0 200bhp Turbo on Sunday. I could use some advice on what faults to look for...things I wouldn't know about after having owned a EJ22 for nearly three years. CV boots, bearings and engine seals are obvious Car has 100k miles on it.

Get the last plug OUT! You don't want a cracked insulator falling into the cumbustion chamber and wreaking havoc !

Only 250k km? Car's nearly brand new, mate! Mine has 306 on it, and still loves to rev

60k miles. Nevermind the age. At least inspect them when they reach this mileage. If you upgrade the front the brakes, the rears will "last longer". However, they will never get up to full operating temp and the friction material will need to be sanded down to expose a fresh layer.

I dare say, that it's two words! What exactly broke off? The sensor is attached by a single bolt through the hub assy, isn't it? There is a fuse box under the hood, which also houses a few relays. There is another fuse box on the lower left side of the driver footwell.

Oh dear, sounds like an expensive hunt! Sticking with the fuel system, there is a pressure regulator on the rear end of one of the banks of injectors, your passenger side I believe. Maybe it's returning fuel to the tank prematurely, and therefore starving your engine at higher revs. A very lean mixture into a hot engine might pre-ignite and be the source of the pinging. The cat thing mentioned by Texan is also worth a look. If the exhaust can't escape fast enough, there will be a build up around the O2 sensor and the ECU will turn the mixture lean because there is no oxygen upstream of the cat, as there should be. Knock and O2 sensors should also be looked at. Best of luck!

The best part of owning a Legacy is taking new people for a ride. People who barely only know that Subes exist. Pootle around town, and once the engine is warm, open the throttle right up and listen to the "Oh my God! When you see this car you don't think it will be so fast!" :D :D :D

I cannot say if Motorvac works, since I haven't tried it. I can however vouch for RedeX products. They make fuel additives suited to most engine configurations (Diesel, Carb, Injection..) and don't cost $140! I have witness Redex cure low speed roughness/hestitation in my own car, and two newer VW's. Problems that STP products couldn't help. If you can get a bottle of this stuff, I would strongly recommend trying it before shelling out the dough for a Motorvac.

"My other car is a Subaru!" or George Carlin's finest: "I'd rather be driving!"

If it's anything like other Subes there is an acces hole in the bodywork above the tank. The tank doesn't need to come out. Look under the carpet in the boot/trunk or underneath the rear seat.

ALWAYS be sceptical of miracle cures. Some are true, some are false. The false ones can sometimes make things worse or cause other, new and more expensive problems. I say, whatever oil you choose: Leave it alone. The company producing it has weighted up a number of factors and settled for the best compromise. If the oil isn't doing what you want, try another type of oil, don't put additives in it! Leaks are leaks, and replacing the seals is the way to cure the them.

That RS must sound EXCELLENT! Superchargers tend to make a lovely wail, as opposed to the whistle of a turbo