Setright

PCV system is the first place to look. No matter what, replace the PCV valve. At the same time make sure all the PCV hoses and connections aren't blocked - they rarely are, since they have quite a large diameter. My car drinks from one to two quarts between my 6000 mile changes and this is what I would consider normal and healthy. Especially at 188,000 miles (Mobil 1 5W-50)

Okay, some trees fall over. They degrade into the soil. Over time the left overs are further decomposed by micro-organisms. Tens of thousands of years later, thick sludge is all that is left of the toppled trees. Obviously, this concoction is the best thing available to lubricate a 21st century automobile engine. Or is it?

You better believe it! The network of PCV hoses is quite complex. You'll have to track down all the connections and hoses, and open each one up and check for gunk. Also, make sure the oil filler cap and dipstick are sealed tight.

Are you CERTAIN the tank isnt leaking? Even a pin-sized hole will produce a strong odor. Otherwise, check around the fuel hoses from the tank - under the rear seat - filters and injectors.

Front to back only for me! Every 15k miles, and things wear nice and even.

Well, to me it sounds like plug wires. Intermittent, rough running, these two make me suspect the wires. Maybe, but not high on the list: the plugs themselves. Of course, I am not ruling out a fuel filter.

It's not a cat, for sure. The Legacy II has a cat there, but Euro gen 1 Legacies only have the front cat in the Y pipe.

john! can you tell us mroe about the conditions you expect to encounter? I have spent a small fortune on testing different types of bubls, and will freely dispense my wisdom if you care to listen

Fantastic, glad to hear it! Any chance you have the part no. for the good clutch?

This is the one they use to really jump ahead on, yet I don't see the relevance to an engine that uses plain bearings. These have sufficient surface area not to challenge the oil film-strength. Even camshaft lobes excert force over a line, not a point. This test is misleading.

LOL @ biff

Okay, so I replaced my exhaust system nearly two years ago, and the center resonator started to develop a rattle. Probably provoked by the judder from the clutch Subaru was so kind to sell me. I can't get the dealer to replace it. ARGH! Anyway, I bought the exhaust at another dealer, and they have already supplied me three center pipes! Now the third one is starting to rattle. Trust me, it's not the heat shields. My problem is that it will be out of warranty after January, and even if I do convince the dealer in question to give me a FOURTH center pipe, what do I do when that one starts to rattle? Please note, it's not the cat rattling. Is the resonator a good thing in terms of torque, or can I hack it off and weld in a section of smooth pipe? Will this make the car untractable at low revs? Will it make it as noisy as a thing that is very noisy indeed??

AL will not "rust", but it certainly will corrode! First a thin layer of anodised AL will form and later, as the salt makes it's way, it will create fault lines in the AL.

I like to replace plugs for approximately every 20k miles. I have been through most of the repertoire, expect Iridium - too expensive. I find that Bosch "Super Plus Yhtrium" work very well, and show little sign of breakdown when I pull them for replacement. NGK's show noticable wear on the electrode at this mileage. I do like the fact that I have look into the combustion chamber every 20k miles, gives a good indication of how the engine is doing. Leaving Iridium plugs in there forever, would mean I miss out in this. Please, don't tell me that I can pull them occasionally, because I don't like to install used gaskets, and where on earth would I find replacement gaskets for these plugs?

Hmmm, there are two temp sensors. One for the ECU to determine mixture, and one to relay info to the dashboard. Which did you replace?

Yeah Texan! Good point. If the temp is too low the lambda sond is ignored, and the engine will continue to run rich to warm up.

Does the engine feel warm or hot? Rest a thermometer on the engine block, engine off!, hopefully it will read around 80-90 degrees centigrade. Is the cabin heat working? I expect you need it at this time of year!! Does the top radiator hose get hard and warm? Indicating correct pressure in the system and flow into the radiator?

I would stay away from anything that looks like it has been curbed, it indicates a careless owner and you need to be able to rely on your rims!

Mobil 1 5W-50 - 0W-40 if we get a really cold winter. I change oil and filter (OE) every 6k miles, which equates to about three months. Also, I NEVER thrash the engine until it's warm - and then I must admit I do like to cane it Seriously, never more than half-throttle, and 4000rpm before the engine temp is up. This is vital for engine longevity.

The new Subaru Forester will be one of the protagonists of the dell?Automobile?Mondiale? of Paris for being endured after commercialized in the versions two liters inhaled benzine and I upset in a position to distributing respective 125 and 177 CV. This SUV maintains the DNA Subaru based on low, motor barycentre boxer, integral traction and distribution of the weights balanced. Concepts base that are translate in ease of handling, stability and absolute emergency on whichever street bottom. The Forester new is a class sport-utility and the aesthetic modernizations bring to you from the designer of it have ulteriorly strengthened the spirit and l?aggressività. The facade entire characterizes for one line more softly and spiovente of the cowling, realized in light alloy. On it ago calenders, that it introduces an unknown design of the template, capolino the new one logo of the Pleiadi, signaling that the same optical groups are hour mainly outline to you. All new also l?impostazione of the posterior one. The hexagonal lines of the cut of the door, the lighter design of the bumper and the particular shape of the optical groups, assure in fact one personality much pleasant fort and. Deeply it renews also the inner ones to you. Salting to edge to us it is found endured just comfort, appreciating some l?ambiente receiving, luminous and rich of solutions it works them. The classic one plancia to?T? today it is proposed with a covering in metal that transmits one feeling of high tech. The instrumentation uses three clocks with three-dimensional effect of great dimensions and immediate interpretation. To the center of the plancia, it is found centers it them of regulation of the air conditioning. The commandos are entrusted to comfortable circular grip handles. The mechanics of the Forester new maintains the already valid formulation of the previous generation that was based on the auto body carrying with suspensions to independent wheels. The Forester new is proposed with two four cylinders boxer two liters: aspiring from 125 CV and one I upset electronically from 177 CV abbinabili to one 5 manual change to marce or an automatic rifle to four relationships managed. The optimal dynamic qualities are insured persons dall?importante experience in the World-wide Rally with l?Impreza, signaling the presence of series of a sophisticated system ABS with electronic distributor of refraining force (EBD). The list of the new Subaru Forester comprises three inhaled versions and two I upset with prices that go from the 24,900 euro of Forester 2,0 X? XQ to the 30,200 of 2,0 XT PR, passing for the 26,700 of 2,0 X? VR. The versions with automatic gearshift finally are proposed to 28.480 (2,0 X - VR Automatic) and 31,980 euro(2.0 XT PR Automatic). October 2002 Service drawn from http://www.infomotori.com

Don't empty the master reservoir, you will get so much air in the lines it will take FOREVER to bleed it out again. One wheel at a time, keep refilling the MR with fresh fluid.

New rocker cover gaskets, and a new PCV valve, and all should be good again. Of course, the crank and cam shaft gaskets could be leaking too.

Average overall is 9.5 kilometers per liter. I have seen 8km/l doing 200km/h (125mph), for hours... And up to 13km/l doing a steady 80km/h (50mph). One imperial gallon is 4.24 liters, and one customary gallon is 3.9 liters, to the best of my recollection. 1.609 kilometers to a mile.

Alias, that test only proves one thing: that particular Audi had a shorter braking distance on that particular lake, compared to that particular Subaru. You cannot infer any further conclusions. You could argue that most likely the Audi has better brakes. But it is not a certainty. The weight, weight distribution, tyre pressure, suspension geometry, center of gravity, and other aspects of each car will have a profound influence on the braking distance. Not to mention the type of ABS system, in particular the frequency of the brake line pulses. For sure the AWD system and it's components are also important, but those two cars are too different to be compared in such a simple manner. Oh, and Audi/VW have ditched the brilliant Torsen system, years ago. Now they use a Haldex clutch, similar to the old system on automatic tranny Subes. What a shame!

Well, it may just be my opinion but: Chip tuning won't give you very much extra power. If it does, your reliability is going to suffer. Most chips tend to allow higher boost, which means more petrol and therefore more power. Disregarding the added stress of extra boost, consider the need for extra fuel. Chips often just prolong the injector pulse, moving it forward in time and spraying before the intake valve is opening, which negates one of the main advantages of fuel injection. To do it right you need to replace the injector nozzles and usually the injector itself and the pump. Why? Because the nozzles in the engine are designed to deliver fuel at the "normal" rate. I do condone getting someone to customize a chip for your exact engine. The OE chip is programmed for an average engine of that particular type. Specific programming will enhance throttle response and give much smoother running. Power and economy gains will be part of that package, but don't expect more than a few horses. Sorry for being such a wet nappy