Setright

Sounds like it may be related to the rim offset. And if so, your rims have too small an offset, which pushes them outward and lets the tyre shoulder rub the edge of the fender.

Because it might be that your handbrake pads are "binding". There is a tendency for drum brakes to tighten their adjustment when they work in reverse, like when parked on a hill....

Try JBL "Power Series". The standard model is quite shallow, and the sound is just as good.

Okay, since I don't know enough about the wipers on your model: Try applying "Rain-X" to the windscreen. Rain drops get blown off above 30mph Not a permanent fix, but it will buy you time?

Does it go away if you tap the accelerator? The return spring on the throttle body could be mucky. Spray some thin oil into it and then dry it out again with compressed air. Worked for me!

Try getting one of those radiator pumps that attaches instead of the cap and pumps air into the system to bring up pressure. It's nicer to trace the leak on a cold engine! Could be a head gasket, but lets hope its the water pump!

Cracked heads on EJ series engines are not a normal occurence. Probably just a head gasket, which should be worth it, if the car isn't too rutsy..

Turning the scoop may not change it's function. There is a high pressure region ahead of the windscreen base, because air is "bunching up" on it's way over the car. The scoop would probably still force air into the engine bay.

You really should get the heads milled. It's the only way to ensure a smooth surface that is also flat - which is crucial! I second the motion to install the gaskets dry.

Have any of you tried shoe-horning an EJ22 into these cars? Plenty of power....and although it does have a timing belt the interval is 60k miles. Get a pre-1997 model and it has hydraulic valve lifters, too.

A wire inside a black plastic shroud. The end is square in cross section, to match the hole it goes into. Not too hard to get it in there. The problem is the larger circular ring that must snap into place, pressing it hard enough is difficult when you're upside down on the driver's seat and cant actually see your hand anymore!!

....without maintenance? Was at my local dealer this morning - wheel bearing - and they had just had an Impreza GT Turbo come in. 100k miles and the conrod bearings had started a death rattle. Apparently the owner used to check the oil level, but at 30k miles it had never used any, so he decided to stop checking it CRIPES! What a horrible way to treat such a nice car! The interior was looking very shabby too

Always keep a watchful eye on coolant and oil levels. I recently drove to Frankfurt from Copenhagen, eight hours of motorway, crusing at 95mph - 4500rpm. 12 year old EJ22 with 180k miles on it. Didn't even use any oil! And back again I regularly visit 120mph, but mileage drops too far.....I have seen an indicated 130mph 90 is not stressful at all, keep up the good work! (Mobil 1, 5W-50, 6k intervals)

Jonathan! I have experimented a lot in recent months with the colour and bulb type. LED's are not going to work, since the lighting setup relies on fibre optics. LED's don't spread the light enough and you well get noticable dark spots on the dials. A light blue tint on the bulbs will make the light whiter, but not very pleasant to my liking, too sharp. Having been through a number of other colours, I have finally stayed with orange. Yes, orange. The needles in my car are orange and the light complements this very nicely. At night the needles seem to glow rather than shine, very cool. The numbers don't go totally orange, they just glow in off-white. I suggest buying a replacement bulb set from a Sube dealer since these are certain to be the right brightness and have the correct fitting system. Trust me, I have tried to save by purchasing other bulbs. No dice. Not bright enough - especially after painting them! There are two or three wire harnesses to disconnect from the instrument cluster and one speedo cable. Pulling on the whole instrument unit should free the cable up, but CAREFUL, once it lets go the cluster comes forward pretty fast! Getting it back on is more tricky, but it should be possible to get a hand up from underneath and grab hold of the cable. Make sure it clicks back into position. If there is anything i have left out....you know where to find me

It walks a fine line between total obsession and complete lunacy. Gotta love it By the way: How many horsepower in a standard 1.8?

Trogdor! The out going transmission axles are NOT moving when the car is standing still, so there is no mechanical wear on bearings or cogs. The "torque converter" or "fluid coupling" between the engine and trans is where the action goes down while stopped in "D". Bascially, but not accurate in detail, since it would take to long to explain: The converter consists of three turbines sat in the same oil filled housing. One is spun by the engine, one is attached to the trans oil pump, and the last drives the trans input axle. The second two tend to follow the first, with roughly 3% loss in the oil. Stopped in D, the trans input axle turbine is not allowed to move and provides resistance to the oil flow in the converter housing. Slipping into N allows the turbine to spin along with the oil. The pump turbine will be spinning in either case, driving the trans oil pump. The N at lights is therefore less stressful for the ENGINE, and keeps the torque converter oil temperature down and will lessen the amount of foaming of the trans oil. The added shifting causes minimal wear, so long as you do it at idle speed!

I would strongly recommend that you DO NOT use any additives. Any engine oil is already a complex cocktail of basestock and additives. There is no reason to mess with this balance. Stick to one brand per change, and just find out what viscosity range stops the clacking. Higher than 10w-XX is probably not a good idea for winter use, your pump will be stressed at cold starts.

bump

Like what Josh? Anything can be fixed....it's only a question of how much it costs

No way is the crankshaft balanced in conjunction with the flywheel! The crank is balanced, the flywheel is balanced. Separately! If the crank is poorly balanced and you then try to correct this by attaching a misbalanced flywheel which you attach so as to counter the crank imbalance, you are asking for trouble. If anyone does this, their engines won't last long. Let's say the crankshaft imbalance is at the front of the engine. Now attach a misbalanced flywheel on THE OTHER END?? Any thoughts on how long the crank bearings will last? Skim the flywheel down, but don't forget that your idle will be rough and you will need a lot of throttle for a smooth take off. But ahhhh, what fantastic throttle response!

Could you be more specific about what you are reffering to? Anything before the air filter can be removed without confusing the electronics, but bear in mind that a lot of thought went into this design. It's only a question of priorities. Noise, emissions, low rev torque and all the rest of it are balanced well in a stock system. Most intake systems aren't very restrictive, and are often rooted to the high air pressure region in front of the radiator, where cool air is available. Rerouting the intake and sucking hot air from within the engine bay will not improve things.

Why not spend the cash on lightening the car a little? 230bhp (Euro model) is plenty for a NA 3.3...why stress it further and hurt reliability and drivability? The car has a serious weight problem and money well spent could see it lose maybe 100kg, which would do wonders for off-the-line performance. Thinner sound deadning panels (or complete omission), lighter seats (nothing electric), thinner carpets, lighter wheels, thinner glass, consider bonding the windows shut so you can remove the winding motor, carbon driveshafts, manual trans with a lightweight flywheel. Some of these things are more exotic/expensive than others This way the car becomes quicker and the engine and transmission will last longer since they don't have to haul as much excess fat around

Okay, so since I replaced my clutch at 125k miles I have been experiencing the dreaded j-u-d-d-d-d-er! However, I also seem to get it even when everything is warmed up, though to a lesser degree. My car will not crawl along using the clutch only, the throttle needs to be co-ordinated VERY carefully to avoid the vibes. SO, does anyone think it might help to replace my clutch cable? It ain't broken, but maybe I should fix it and see? Bear in mind that here in over-priced Denmark the cable costs about $80 !! As far as I know it's the original cable and the odo is almost at 186k miles. The pedal is quite heavy, and presumably this is due to resistance in the cable assembly. I replaced the "initial pedal effort reduction spring" not long along, because the old one cracked. Any thoughts? Oh, by the way, despite showing the dealer the clutch TSB, I have had no succes in getting a warranty fix on that. Dealer insists that my clutch is a different part ...

Well routing the cable is actually the hard part - especially hooking it up to the pedal...getting both hands under the dash and being able to see what you're doing aint easy on most cars. The adjustment should really be a piece of cake, unless you need to co-ordinate it with the hill holder, in which case it becomes a little more tricky, but not exactly difficult. I suggest removing the "initial pedal effort reduction" spring from the pedal assembly since this allows more play in the pedal movement. Getting it back on once the cable is taught can get aggravating but it's worth the extra ease of installing the cable in the first place.

Mobil 1. 5W-50 summer, temp up to plus 34 C 0W-40 winter, temp down to minus 20 C No problems, over the last 60k miles and two years. Never any problems in other vehicles that I have treated similarly.