Setright

Quick crossbolt, join the club! http://www.redlineoil.com

The Legacy came first. Colin McRae raced one in the WRC early 1990'ies. To make it more agile they decided to cut the wheelbase down, and hey presto created the Impreza! Therefore the mechanicals are pretty much identical. I would recommend a Legacy since it has slighty softer springs which would do well on the rough. The longer wheelbase might also aid stability on the steep slopes. There is a hi/lo transfer case version of the manual, but I have no idea where and when it was produced. Even so, first gear in the 5MT is quite low/short. ABS is also more likely on the Legacies, and I expect that would be helpful on a steep muddy slope??

A gallon should see you through. The capacity listed in the manual is for a dry gearbox. Since it is impossible to drain all the old out, I only fill 3.2 litres in my 3.5 litre 'box - and it always hits the full mark spot on! (I use the excess to "flush" the box before filling.) SubieGal, have you tried NS? Can you "compare and contrast" NS and Shockproof? Shift speed, cold performance, that sort of thing..

If your handbook recommends GL5, then I would say yes! It's not quite a new-gearbox-in-bottle or anything, but it will certainly improve the shift. Bear in mind that Subarus have always had a notchy 2nd to 3rd shift. Not savvy on the older Subes: Do you have direct rod link to the 'box? Cables tend to mask notchiness, while a rod allows you to feel every synchro tooth mesh into the cogs, just the way I like it

EJ20 and EJ22 engines are very good. EJ25 has cylinder walls too thin to keep head gaskets tight, so are best avoided. The gaskets have been through a number of redesigns, likewise the block and head, not sure if it helped. Early 1989-mid 1990 5MT boxes are bad - main bearings die at 120K miles. Clutch swaps between 2000 and 2003 could mean cold judder - GM to thank for that one. Legacies are 70% galvanised so rust doesn't run rampant. Not sure what percentage on the Impreza, but likely to be similar. Check the bottom rear of the passenger door frames. Rust loves to start at the point where its welded to the sill. Wheel bearings have a reputation for going easily, but I am only now beginning to hear one of my fail, at 185k miles.

My sympathies. When I bought my present Legacy, it stood out as fairly well maintained and reliable - I think it wanted me to buy it HOWEVER, I had a number of things show up - Headgaskets, gearbox bearings - shortly after the purchase, within months. I bit the bullet, because the bodywork was sound and spent the car's price again on repairs. We have now done nearly 60K miles in just over two years and things have run smoothly. Oh, and it never left me stranded....stopped due to overheating, but always got under way again soon.

Buying ANY used car is always a risk, so unless you miss something obvious, there is no reason for any "I told you so's". 4WD test: Tight circle, medium speed, come on and off the gas pedal abrubtly and listen for a "clonk" from the rear of the car...indicates abuse and could be expensive to fix. I did this test one of the Legacies I was looking at, and walked away. Don't risk it, no amount of seller excuses about rear suspensions bushings will do - it's a transmission fault. I'm afraid I can't comment on price, a car like that would cost about three times that amount here in Denmark :boohoo: 99OBW, don't the brake and fuel lines run inside the cabin, alongside the sills? Like in my similar aged Legacy?

Don't look at me, I didn't start the anti-syn movement

Okay, so today I drained Mobil 1 75W90 out of my gearbox and replaced it with Redline 75W90NS. (There has been a debate as to whether synthetic oil is good for Sube transmissions at all, under the thread name "Rear diff oil") Having only done about 6 miles with the new oil, I can't make any final conclusions but there is a slightly more soft/damped sensation to the way the gearstick slots home. Also, the whirring noise I had on the overrun in third has dissappeared, which speaks highly for the film strength of Redline. The difference in shiftability is only slight, at this stage, but I expect that anyone making the change from a mineral oil to synthetic would be very impressed by Redline NS. I have been through Castrol and Mobil, both mineral and synthetic, so I reckon I have experience enough to make a fair judgement. Pianodirt, I would recommend forking out the extra money for Redline. You won't be disappointed. Sprintman, my gearbox has 185K miles on it, so age shouldn't be important.

Started a new thread, figured others might be interested in Redline gear oil

Probably, but I havent tried

Crush washers should not be used twice.

Cookie, the center diff is LSD...it won't tolerate different axle speeds for prolonged periods of time. Zavikan, I wish you all the best, I understand your situation completely! But don't worry about it, the car runs, proper size tyres all round will stop stressing the transmission, and hence should stop any further damage. I would certainly recommed replacing the oil and filter for both engine and transmission, and then get on with driving. If the autobox gives up one day, just take it from there. Don't let anyone give you a hard time over buying a foreign car. Subarus are up there with the best of the best, and any car that age will have hidden problems.

Subyluvr, I wasn't trying to insult your driving skills! Just trying to make sure we are talking about the same thing, yes? Enough of the apologies: CobbTuning recommends MT90, but the Redline tech guy I spoke to in England suggested that I stay with a GL5 oil. Apparently, his local Sube dealer uses NS for all their servicing. Okay, he could be feeding me a line, but the oil is on the way, and I look forward to trying it. Believe you me, if it sucks I won't shy away from admitting it. This is an experiment, after all If it can speed up my shifts, and do away with the old Sube trait of clonking on the upshift from 2nd to 3rd, well, I will be pleased!

Sounds like you got a VW/Audi part. Their cars from those years made a very loud whirrr...from the fuel pump. Dealer: "They all do that, sir."

Looks like the "fresh air" pipe that runs from the clean side of the air filter to ventilate the crankcase via the valve cover. PCV valve should be in the intake "plenum" just after the throttle body, and will surely need replacing in conjunction with a swap of valve cover gaskets and bolt gaskets. Check all the PCV pipes for blockage and cracks. Replace as necessary. Also replace the oil filler pipe gasket and the seal on the dipstick if you can get it. PCV works best that way. The bolts on my EJ22 stop long before there is a chance to over-torque them, the thread wont allow it. Cool, eh?

Pianodirt : Dino oil won't necessarily have a higher friction co-effiencient. The main disadvantage with mineral oil (my word for dino) is a tendency to break down under heat "loads". This will reduce the strength of the oil film and allow metal to contact metal directly instead of being cushioned by the oil. It also tends to leave broken down components behind in the form of "sludge". By the way, synthetic oil is usually based on mineral oil components that have been "evaporated" off the base and re-assembled in a structure that suits the application. Anyway, this allows vastly superior stability under high temperatures and improves the film strength, even in relation to brand new mineral oil. THAT is why synthetics can offer better protection, it is nothing to do with friction co-efficient. The lower amount of friction has advantages in terms of fuel economy. Still, it pays to remember that a large portion of this friction is inside the oil, between the molecules moving within the film, not between metal components. I run only synthetics in my car, and I have no ill effects. Engine, transmission, and brakes have all been on syns for the last 60k miles since I bought the car, and I have no complaints. Nearing the 200k mile mark. Mobil syn in the transmission saves pennies on the fuel bill, but slows shifts, and that is the only reason I am going to try Redline. I don't get any crunching because I run a synthetic. No argument on the synchroniser cones needing a certain amount of friction to work properly. However, crunching is usually a product of the driver releasing the clutch too early, like before the gear has been selected fully. If you keep the clutch down, the gearstick won't move into the slot until the input and output have reached the same speed. Granted they will crunch if you really RAM the stick, but if you do that...well....you need to rethink your shifting technique and maybe practice a little double-de-clutching. I can shift my car from 4th to 2nd at 40mph and not loose speed. Passengers can HEAR it happen, but can't feel it: Clutch down Select Neutral Clutch up Rev it to 4000 Clutch down Select 2nd Throttle again to match revs as you move the clutch up:brow: The rear diff isn't LSD so a low friction oil will be just the ticket. Enough of my post, I will get back to you......

Any Subaru has a better potential for lasting longer than many of it's competitors. At 100k miles however, neglect can cause trouble. So the professional check is a good idea. Having said that, if it's in good shape now and you take good care of it, you will easily see twice that mileage I run only synthetic fluids in my car - coolant excepted! - and contrary to all the scary stories have no problems. It is true that switching from mineral oil to synthetic oil in the engine can produce leaks at some of the rubber gaskets. The mineral oil causes the cracks, but also fills them with sludge, and therefore keeps things tight. Switching to synthetic cleans the slugde out of the cracks and....the leaks start. Might not be a problem at such "low" mileage. Best of luck!

5x100 says my money!

I'd certainly be happy that they left a note and no damage, but I'd also spend many daydreams wondering just how lame people can be! I sometimes leave notes on Subarus (we are a rarity in Denmark) to say "Hey man, cool car!" or something similar. Why on earth would anyone ever want to leave a derogatory note?? Imagine taking the time to find paper and pen....just to spread negative energy?? I am surprised the perpatrator could even spell

Pianodirt! Wait a couple of days and I will be able to tell you how Redline performs....I ordered Friday and they promised me by the "end of next week" I would have it here....

Over fueling, and possibly a failed catalyst. Over fueling could have killed the cat. Have the oxygen sensor (lambda sond) checked. Possibly the coolant temperature sensor - the ECU use this to help decide how to start the engine.

I second the motion: For sure it is the alternator. Even newer Subes are wired like this and produce the same sort of symptoms. Mine died in a frenzy of burned diodes (at 170k miles) which made a distinct STINK! Funnily, when all the diodes burn the lights don't come on.... The new one I got turned out to be the wrong model and guess what? Those same three lights would be dimmer than the others with the key set to "On" but with the engine off. SO, when those three lights play up, the alternator is definitely to blame. I see that you might have trouble convincing NAPA of this, but I think your try-another-shop idea is going to work. (There is no light to indicate worn pads.)

Larger tyres would make a difference, but also to the speedo and odo readings and therefore would be illegal. Anyway, you need a massive difference to make it count and the wheel wells are only so big... I normally cruise at 150km/h (ca. 93mph) and that puts the rev counter smack on 4500rpm. Engine doesn't sound stressed, or even loud, and returns 10.2 km/l - for hours on end. 6.338miles per liter, 3.785 liters per customary gallon, let's see that should equate to roughly 24 mpg. Or 4.546 liters per Imperial gallon: 29mpgUK I'm not complaining......oh and don't forget that the short stroke on most Sube boxers means that the average piston speed is relatively low.

Well, I don't know anything specifically about your gearbox, but that hasn't stopped me before What type of fluid are you running in the 'box? And are you running the correct level? Is the car a "grey" import? This could mean that any old ATF fluid won't do, you might need a particular brand of oil. If you didn't pour the oil into the 'box yourself, I suggest finding out exactly which oil Subaru recommends and draining the 'box yourself. You can only be sure that the correct fluid goes in if you pour it yourself! The slipping problem you describe is often due to low oil pressure which stems from a worn pump, clogged filter, or below par oil. I trust the first two have been replaced during the rebuilds, so oil is the best place to start. (Replace the filter again if it is an external type, similar to the engine oil filter.) A faulty ECU should register itself by flashing the "AT Oil Temp" light, and only in extreme cases could this lead to a mechanical failure.