Setright
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Posts posted by Setright
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"I love it when a plan comes together."
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Good points include those already mentioned above, and THEY ARE SAFE. The body shell is very stiff and will protect her well, should the unthinkable happen.
They are also very communicative, both in the steering and "seat of pants" feeling, which means it will keep her informed if she is pushing close to the limits.
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I just replace the struts on my car, and if I could go back I would get four new dust boots (one has a very minor tear) and bump stops. And new top mounts.
Not so much because they were all worn out, but they do look old and I felt a bit stupid fitting old parts along with the spangly new stuff
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Yep, it is. The bleeder screw should be in the "top" of the two possible positions. You'll notice an L and an R near the bleeder.
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Sure, once you compress the air bubbles, they will transmit the pressure.
Of course, if you drive and brake a lot, the brakes get warmer, the air bubbles bigger, and you'll never get a firm pedal.
Any conclusion on the caliper orientation?
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My humble comments :-)
It's not a volume problem. The MC can deliver the goods if it's in good condition.
Off hand, yes, I would think MC too, IF there really is no air in the lines. So, check as stated above that the bleeder screws face the right way - up!
You might also want to check the drums in the rear - assuming that's what you've got - and adjust the shoes all the way out so they reach the drum. If the clearance is too high (frozen auto adjuster?) your pedal will drop quite far.
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Coming in a little late here :-)
Get your colon back in place, a small overheat, with the engine unloaded isn't going to kill anything.
Next up: Filling via the top hose (about 2 qts), remounting the hose, and filling via the rad neck are the way to go. As you have concluded above.
Leave the rad cap and bleeder off, let the coolant ooze out (helps if you don't fill to the brim in the above exercise) and wait for the radiator fan to switch on. Then you will notice the coolant level drop since the cooling effect of the fan makes it contract. THIS STAGE IS CRITICAL, since it means you can 100% sure that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to be open. With that open, pump circulation will flush out the bigger air pockets.
Give it half a minute, then seal up the rad cap and bleeder.
Keep an eye on the level in the expansion tank for a few days. Try to avoid the temptation to open the rad cap again. The expansion tank level should drop quite a bit during the first overnight cool down, then not too much during the subsequent days.
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Pitch stopper is mounted on the top of the gearbox. A small "dog bone" that connects to the firewall.
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Uprating the front will give you more direct turn-in, and more self-centering on the steering. Regardless of what you do on the rear.
However, the in-turn handling balance will move toward understeer.
So, uprating both ends would be smart. If you want to keep your present balance, you must find a pair of bars that have the same ratio front-to-rear of anti-roll effect.
Going for stronger bars, with the same ratio will keep your balance and still give you flatter cornering. (Although the car will become more edgy near the limits)
Uprating the rear a little, will move the balance toward neutral (I like!) and uprating it a lot will result in more oversteer, particularly when you step off the gas (I don't like too much of this.).
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I replaced one, on an 11 year old Legacy, is was rusty on the front, and I didn't dare wait 'til it spilled the oil and blew the engine - not to mention contaminate the road and risk someone behind having a very serious accident.
So, I am voting: Replace it.
(Loosening the engine mounts and removing the topside "pitch stopper" should give room enough)
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If you will never see freezing temperatures, a 20% anti-freeze would be good. Going weaker you will start to lose the lubrication and anti-corrosion properties that the anti-freeze additives provide.
Water is the best coolant. It has twice the heat capacity of anti-freeze (gylcol anyway) and can transfer heat twice as fast. In the textbooks.
In the real world, you must have something to break the water's surface tension and lube your pump, and stop corrosion.
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This a professional series that has been 40 years in the making. They decided to sell to private customers in 1990, and I still swear by their stuff.
It's not the absolute last word in showroom shine, there are others that can produce slightly better results. HOWEVER, the price is very reasonable, and most important: It's so easy to use
For not a lot of effort, you get 95% of the results of the best of best. So, Zymol and Meguiars might do better, but in unless you're planning a concours prize winning car, they aren't really worth the added cost and sweat.
My humble opinion.....
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Nice. All those 4WD Justys make me jealous
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www.camskill.co.uk Has some nice stainless steel, half inch wide clamps in all sorts of diameters.
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Yep, they bolt straight in, but as above, sit a little bit higher.
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Andyjo, that does tie in nicely, the H6 can get 29mpg without a struggle. Of course, mashing the loud pedal into the carpet will see it drink like there is no tommorrow...but that goes for all "big" engines. I am European, we think 3.0 is big
I hear you on the tuning potential, Jamal, but as you say the engine failure is often related to tuning and/or abuse. (Simple advice: Uprate the fuel pump and the pressure regulator before doing ANYTHING else.)
My own, personal, and very humble opinion is that the H6 3.0 will provide smooth, reliable, and not least flexible power for many years to come. More so, than the 2.5T.
Of course, I would be very pleased to own either of those cars. We are talking about degrees of pleasure here
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I mixed that up anyway.....Let's see....my t-stats say they begin opening at 78 degrees C.
(78 * 1.8) + 32= 172 degrees F
I would expect it to be fully open at 90C / 194F
So, sounds like we are in agreement :-p
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Nice plan!
Let us see the final result....so I can go completely green with envy
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If I was choosing between a 2.5Turbo and the 3.0....I'd chose the 3.0 without hesitation.
That engine is super smooth, pulls from idle til 7000rpm, making a wonderfully creamy noise on the way. It's also capable of siping fuel with quite surprising parsimony - the Turbo drinks more, roughly 10% more.
I have owned a Forester 2.5XT comany car, and my neighbor owns a 3.0 Legacy, so that's based on real-world driving, not just numbers I came up with
Not to rub salt in any wounds, but I would most likely choose the 2.0 TurboDiesel available to us here in Europe
Be aware, a more than ordinary number of 2.5 Turbo engines have cracked pistons early in life. It seems the very lean fuel mixture required to meet latest emission laws are causing extreme combustion temperatures.
Subaru over here are replacing engines under warranty.
Mine didn't put a foot wrong in 20,000 miles. I had it from new and was careful to follow the break-in period of 1000 miles with no more than half throttle and never over 4000rpm. I also didn't thrash the engine until it was warm, and never shut it off right after a hot run. Let it idle for a minute.
It's still running and has passed 40,000 miles without incident, but I reckon the guy who drives it now doesn't rev it to the redline as much as I did
Do keep an eye on the oil level, using all that power will increase oil consumption. Check it every 1000 miles. Of course, that goes for most cars, just to be safe!
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Normal range is 70-90 degrees centigrade. (x0.5555+32 to get degrees F, isn't it?)
Overheating...hmm...difficult to answer accurately. The temp gauges in the cars engine comes from "lie", they indicate at just below 50% of the scale for the range 70-90. So, cruising along, you cannot be sure if the temp is 75, 78, or 90...it's just "normal".
There is 40% travel until the dial shows red/overheating/no go zone.
My money says that anywhere over 100 is overheating, 110 would give me sleepness nights, and 120+ would blow head gaskets and from there on the heads are warping.
Does that answer your questions at all
The Subaru cooling system has around 6.5 liters of coolant. The block itself swallows about two liters, the hoses, pump, cabin heater matrix, and overflow tank take the rest.
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What did it do? 440mph???
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The air is drawn in through the grille around the base of your windscreen wipers.
There should be a screen mesh underneath the grille to stop smaller bits entering the cabin, things like plant spores and leaf litter.
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Oh yeah, that photo is taken looking up from the passenger footwell.
Ceased Caliper
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Porcupine...is that the seal kit for the single piston front calipers? That acts on the 260mm disc?