Setright

Subaru used to mount both of them in front of the battery. Where they only make any usable noise under the hood. My Impreza had one left behind there too, but the other was moved onto a special bracket that puts it just behind the radiator grille. Even so, I have a set of Fiamm AM100 "Highway Blaster" horns that have followed me from car to car. They deliver 132dB of thunder! I have nestled them just in front of my radiator, but behind the legally required front number plate. That way they blow almost straight out the front of the car, but are protected from rain.

Yeah, but the standard skid plate on the Legacy BC7 I owned DID protect the oil pan (I made use of the plate too!) but a fumoto valve would stick out an be just past level with the plate. Meaning you would need to fit a new plate. I have often been tempted to fit a fumoto, since I replace my oil every three months, but I must admit that I share "the fear" :-)

The take as I see it: Injector cleaners are not all the same. I prefer Redex. Don't use them in every tank, just drop in a bottle 3-4 times a year.

Correct jump start: Both cars off. Connect cables. Start the jumper. Idle for 10-15 minutes to charge the jumpee a little. TURN OFF the jumper and then try to start the jumpee - with the cables still connected. This way, you protect the jumpers charge and ignition system.

Torque spec for the drain plug is 40Nm, which is as stated above roughly 30ftlbs. I always tighten bolts with my torque wrench. I think the grease monkeys at most dealers just overtighten everything, thinking that way nothing will fall off. Overtightening IS dangerous, bolts can break suddenly under later stress.

Flowmaster, have you never read "The Boy Who Cried Wolf" ? I only use the Hazard/Emergency flasher, when my car poses a hazard due to being stranded on the roadway. Kinda like in an emergency ;-) I use the parking lights whenever I park the car in a place that might have people wondering if I am coming back soon. Like if making a short, work related deliver and finding it prudent to leave the car on the front lot of a building.

What exactly did you subject it to?? I would suggest replacing the air filter, since it is likely contaminated with dust from off-roading. That, and the oil and oil filter should make an improvement.

It is possible that extreme cold is affecting the friction co-efficient of your clutch lining. It also possible that the clutch linkage (hydraulic or cable?) is sticking when cold. Ice in any of the linkages could cause the clutch to engage slowly and give you slip during gear changes. The test that strakes suggests is the one to rely on. As a clutch starts to get critical it will slip on the upshift from 1st to 2nd. In general clutch slip will begin at the revs where the engine starts to produce usable torque. Around 3000 sounds reasonable. And always starts in the highest gears. I would expect that the extreme cold thing is a sign of age, but not immenent failure. You say that after slipping once, it won't repeat until cold again. My guess is that the first amount of slip is enough to warm the clutch lining and get things running right. Don't worry about it until it slips in third gear. Every time you accelerate. (Of course a weak pressure plate can also cause slipping, but it wouldn't display your symptoms.)

I would just like to butt in and say that I agree with 99obw.

Spoke to her elleven year old son, a few minutes ago. Here's the full translation. Þetta er Subaru Legacy '93 sem ég hef verið að breyta. This is a Subaru LEgacy '93 that I have modified. Megnið af drifbúnaðinum er Toyota Hilux, en vélin er Subaru. Most of the driveline is Toyota, the engine is Subaru. Talsvert basl var að koma framhjólabúnaðinum undir, en allt tókst það að lokum. The hardest part was getting the front diff to fit underneath, but it all came together in the end. Hann er ólæstur og eitthvað lækkuðum hlutföllum. <Kid couldn't translate this. Sorry! Dekkin eru 33". Tyres are 33 inches. Ekki er öllum breytingum lokið, t.d. eru brettakantar eftir, og kanski læsingar. The re-build isn't complete as yet, but it does run as is. Emil Borg - September 1999. Hey look! He shares my first name! EMIL

6.5 inch wide rims will work best with 195-205 rubber. No question. The grip MIGHT improve you fit 215, but the actual handling won't.

SUBARU LEGACY 1993 Þetta er Subaru Legacy '93 sem ég hef verið að breyta. Megnið af drifbúnaðinum er Toyota Hilux, en vélin er Subaru. Talsvert basl var að koma framhjólabúnaðinum undir, en allt tókst það að lokum. Hann er ólæstur og eitthvað lækkuðum hlutföllum. Dekkin eru 33". Ekki er öllum breytingum lokið, t.d. eru brettakantar eftir, og kanski læsingar. Myndina sendi Emil Borg - September 1999. Okay, I am having my friend's Icelandic girlfriend look at this, but for now I can decipher the following: Megnið af drifbúnaðinum er Toyota Hilux: Much of the running gear is Toyota Hilux Talsvert basl var að koma framhjólabúnaðinum undir, en allt tókst það að lokum: Biggest hurdle was mouting the front axle, not much space. Dekkin eru 33". : Tyres are 33 inches DUH! Will get back later!

Seems quite unlikely that an idler would fail so soon, but anything is possible. The aircon compressor clutch can also make a chirp noise when it engages. The belt that drives it can also chirp as it engages the aircon. If the belt was tightened to hard, the compressor clutch might be busted.

The plug wire resistance is off, but consider that they operate at far higher voltage than your VOM tests them at. Anyway, the real trouble with plug wires is when they break internally and cause misfires. This is often difficult to test for because the resistance measured using a low voltage VOM is usually okay. One broken plug wire will often lead to a periodically lumpy idle, most often after the engine has been asked to do some hard work. It is possible that more than one of your plug wires is broken. If so, this would be consistent with your problem. I doubt it's the injectors, you wouldn't get a fuel smell if they were staying shut.

Yeah, but do consider that those holes look much larger then they are because they act as lenses for the light passing through. Like the "camera obscura".

Pump is fed by the radiator. The coolant exits the engine at the top. That is why the coolant temperature sensor is located up there, in the collector pipe that the feeds the radiator top hose. The ECU wants to know the temperature inside the engine.

Duh! K&N....but if you think that is why I am being defensive, you are mistaken :-) There is no doubt that it doesn't filter quite as well as paper. However, the difference is marginal and does not compromise engine longevity. Especially if the engine has it's oil and oil-filter replaced at the correct intervals. It IS cheaper in the long run. At least for me, since I live in my home country: Denmark. I paid roughly $100 for my K&N panel. A genuine Subaru filter costs around $45. With my mileage of over 25k a year, it doesn't take long to earn back the added cost of the K&N - filter cleaning kit costs $20.

Yeah, make sure the person mounting your tyres uses a sealant on the rim.

So, no matter what tyres you use. Do you use the same rims? To being with, I would recommend re-fitting each wheel and tightening the nuts with a good torque-wrench. Make sure you tighten them in steps and in a "star" pattern as shown in your owners manual. Max torque should be around 95Nm. Step up from 20-50-80-95.

Of course. I did read the numbers, but how many people do that? I am sceptical of anything that shows signs of being manipulated. BITOG is FULL of bias and irrelevant tests. The timken machine is the biggest joke :-)

Blitz, there is no doubt that a paper filter will stop smaller particles. No argument there. However, that test you posted a link to is NOT objective. Why do they need to exagerate the filter efficiency differences by fiddling with the y-axis on the first two graphs? If the scale started at 0, you would notice that the differences are not that large. The test is trying to make a specific point. It is not trying to be objective - despite the claims in the text.

If you are looking for the most entertaining drive, then the standard version is the choice. The Outback ride height does not improve handling. In terms of performance, go for the WRX if you budget allows for the added fuel and insurance costs.

Could be camshaft seals, one on either side of the front of the engine. Check underneath the cambelt housing. Crank seal in the middle could also be the culprit. Or maybe all three! You might lucky, and it's only your rocker cover gaskets. These are easier to replace. Both sides of the engine. If these are leaking, the bottom of the engine cylinder heads will be covered in oil. Replace the PCV valve too, as this will help relieve the pressure that forces oil out through these gaskets.

Bank on replacing the tensioner, they tend to go "soft" even if they aren't leaking oil. The toothed idler that runs inside the belt often has a noisy bearing at your mileage, so that would be a good one to buy straight off. The smooth idle wheels should be okay. I do understand your predicament, if you take everything apart and listen for faulty bearings, you will need to wait until the new parts arrive.....

Well, for sure his answers were pathetic. Not knowing the answer to all the odd questions that DIY'ers like us come up with is okay. But he should know how to find out. I work as a printer/computer tech and I never shrug off questions. But sometimes it just takes a while to find the answer.