Setright

It was an option along with A/C. If there is one, it's underneath the glovebox, you don't need to remove the glovebox to get the filter out. The bent metal plate in this picture is what the cover looks like on my year 2000 Impreza.

Bucky, your old Justy looks sweet. We didn't get those in northern Europe - but we had lots of them in Singapore where I grew up

It can be easier to assemble the tools inside the plug tunnels. If you want to ease access, you'll need loosen the engine mounts and lift the engine up with a jack from below. Gives about an inch before the exhaust won't allow more height. That inch can make a big difference! Put a thin layer of ceramic grease on the plug threads, that'll keep them from sticking when time comes to pull them out again. I used to use copper grease, but when left for a long time (more than 1 year) it tends to dry out and the plugs need quite some effort to get out.

Well, the first fill up shows 17km/l average. Not at all bad. The Justy is a cut above most rivals, not only in terms of space, but the interior is really quite nice, doesn't feel cheap. R1 and R2 aren't available in Europe :-\ Wish they were, an electric R1 would be cool :-p I doubt climbing mountains would be a problem with just a driver....but four passengers might make it a risky affair! It does pull well when you boot it, and the 3cylinder makes a great sound. Plenty of enthusiasm.

Okay, here's some links: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Justy/Front34.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Justy/Dash.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Justy/Rear.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Justy/MachineRoom.jpg And finally, the ones with me sat in the driver seat, and then in the rear, without moving the front seat. Headroom in the rear is only just, but a shorter driver would allow we to slouch more and clear the ceiling- and the beauty is that the rear seat back has two positions. In the photo, it's in the most upright position, so there really is room for a 6ft5inch adult. (ca. 90kg/190pounds) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Justy/InFront.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Justy/InBack.jpg

Okay, I'll work on getting more pictures. Wasn't sure if it would spark interest It's a 3cylinder, 1.0L engine, with variable timing and lift camshaft. Develops 70hp and 94Nm torque. It's essentially a Daihatsu Sirion. Curb weight 930kg. FWD only It will run 22 kilometeres (1.609km=1miles) on 1 liter (3.9 liters to one US gallon) of gas when cruising level at ca. 50mph (Doing the math, that should come to 53mpg.) Presently, the trip computer average reads 17km/l (41mpg)...but we haven't run a full tank yet, so we'll see what the pumps say. The engine is the same as the Toyota Aygo/Citroen C1/Peugeot 107, and those cars get marginally better mileage because they are smaller and a little bit lighter. HOWEVER, they have no luxuries. Even glove compartments are optional extras in those cars. The Subaru comes with electric windows and mirrors, height adjustable driver's seat, four speaker stereo - with "Ipod" connection, A/C, alloy wheels...and plenty of space for most adults in the rear too. I'll get the girlfriend to take some pictures with me sitting in it We also tried the "Mercedes" Smart, but that's a strict two seater, with a very odd semi-automatic gearbox. The gas engine gets similar mileage to the Subaru, and whilst the Diesel will get over 60mpg, it's noisy and vibrates the whole car. So, a six month old Justy it was. It's far too expensive brand new, but luck had it that we stumbled over this "pre-owned" one. It's done 3200km (2000 miles), and was owned by an elderly lady who that it was too big for her. This shows in small scratches on the plastic bumpers....but we did use this as leverage to get a very good price. Great little car, but this is still my baby: She's got over 220,000 km on the odo now Oh yeah, gas costs 11.50 Danish kroner per liter. What's that in Dollars? 2.20 ?

We just replace the XT with a cheap/cheerful and very frugal Justy: Don't worry, the XT was sold to another enthusiast, and will now see summer action only, which bodes well for it's longevity. By the way found this old commercial, and the punchline is sticking like crazy glue

Popping? What are the ends of the springs resting in? Rubber or metal/metal. The entire spring squirms when moving, and applying some grease or underbody sealer to the spring seats can kill the noise. IF, that is what is causing it.

Have you considered chemical warfare? I don't mean PB/WD...but an acid attack. It's helped many long-fingered individuals steal push-bikes in England. Not sure what acid to use though...

Instead of listing a bunch answers, let me assure you that each answer would be the positive one One thing: The H6 is likely to burn some amount of oil, like any "modern" engine does. The oil is thin and the piston cooling jets ensure that some oil is carried close to the combustion chamber. This means a small oil consumption....much smaller than the VW. Don't VW approve up to one quart per 600 miles? Subaru will accept 2 quarts per 7000 miles. Let us know what you decide - the Lexus is nice too

If all else is well, maybe your radiator is clogged up, meaning the temperature is reaching close to 90 and the fans are coming on to keep it there. Your temp needle will stay in once place for the range 70-90 degrees C. This kind of electronic "cheating" is normal in newer cars, it stops the driver getting nervous over the needle moving up and down. My 2000 Impreza does this. Our 1988XT has the the old style, fluctuating needle.

Good laugh :-)

I concur. Replace all four struts (dampers, springs are still good). I just did on my car and the difference is amazing. Mine had "only" done 125k miles The car wasn't bouncing or floating, but the handling was starting to suffer, and the car would wander a lot under hard braking. My mounts, boots, and bump stops were all okay.

Strange init? I've left a note because I dented a license plate on a car parked behind me - I was in a borrowed car, and I'm not used to leaving room for a hitch. Never heard anything. Sorry about the damage, subi :-\

Sounds like you did quite a good job already. I normally wait for the radiator fan to switch on, before I mount the rad cap. That's the way to be sure the thermostat is open and the coolant is circulating and has purged all the air.

So...you think the old filter was clogged ? Please explain in more detail (I would say that a little oil in the filtered side of the filter box is normal. Enough for a weak stain in the air filter. That PCV is connected to the intake and the crankcase, plenlty of oil "fog" down there!)

Cheap cheap.....up here in Denmark that same tax is 180% After which we add the flate rate GST/VAT og 25% !!! Nice Forester by the way

Start by replacing the rad cap .

Certainly looks like oil is mixing with your coolant. The WRX cooling system? I expect it only reaches to the alloy header tank. Your Legacy left the factory with a bakelite header tank, and with time (10 years+) they crack. Perhaps that is what happened. It cracked the original header tank, overheated and blew a small hole in a head gasket. Ever since, it's been leaking small amounts of oil into the coolant? Yes, I'm sorry, that is bad news. I think you are looking at a headgasket job. Of course it is possible that you (or previous owner) has mixed incompatible coolant types? Did you flush by filling with pure demin water and actually driving the car?

Take off, re-seal, ignore the material on your particular model year. No problems.

Dang it :-( Sorry you had to go through this, but very glad there wasn't more damage and best of all, no-one hurt.

Well, well, well.... First of all: I am appalled! My car is built in Japan, but they installed a FRENCH clutch at the factory "Valeo" stamped all over the parts. No wonder the original clutch died so early. Thank goodness the Subaru dealer spare part is an Exedy item. (Came in Subaru box, with Subaru part no.) Back on track: The valve train needed no adjustment. So that's quite impressive. Of course it does mean that the my piston slap noise really is piston slap. I would expect the same of yours Suzam.

I'd bank on main bearings. It was on mine, and they were the only weak link on those cars.

Well, I just read through the linked post. My engine has similar piston slap symptoms. Has done so since the odo read 45K miles. On Saturday, I'm replacing the clutch (130K miles now) and since the engine will be lifted out anyway, I'm going to check/adjust the valve lash. So sit tight, and wait for my feedback. At least you'll know for sure if the big bill will cure the sound

KYB "GR2" are more firm and will fit easily. KYB also make "AGX" which are adjustable.