Setright

Oh, and in no way condoning his "profession", at least the dealer had good taste in cars, most would have gone with Ferrari.

Dang it! What a dream come true, SVX's straight out a time machine.....wish I didn't live in Denmark...and could afford an SVX.

Scrap the intake silencers. Those would be the network of pipes and boxes that live ahead of the MAF. If your engine bay looks the way I expect, there is an air filter box attached directly to the throttle body? Leave this one box in position, and attach a pipe from this and run it into the fender cavity to draw in colder air. Make sure the pipe has nice trumpet/velocity stack opening to avoid turbulence. This will not interfere with the PCV system. Feel free to drop in a K&N or similar panel filter - I did :-) Getting a performance silencer for the exhaust will also free up a few horsepower. Bear in mind, more power gain means more noise and drone on highways. Also, stainless steel looks cool, but is louder than mild steel. (Stainless tends to "ring" like a crystal glass.) Bigger bore muzzles, very popular these days, will give a very deep tone, that will vibrate the cabin at low engine speeds. Stay away from anything larger than 2.5inches - trust me, been there done that and couldn't stand the noise at cruise. With both these mods you are likely to see a maximum gain of about 10hp, which isn't much, but the throttle response will improve and the soundtrack livens up! For real gains, you need to look at equal length exhaust manifolds and a catalyst with better high speed gas flow. After that, the bolt-on tuning stops and you need to look into new camhafts, bigger valves, higher compression pistons.....

1974, eh? So is that a W123 ?? :-)

These boxes do have weak synchro-rings, the shifts aren't fast. If your clutch has too much free-play it will not dis-engage fully, and shifting will become harder. Does the pedal move far before offering resistance? Does it move though a point of large resistance before becoming easier to press to the floor? (That over-cam feel, just halfway down, is the sign of good clutch adjustment) If you are trying to shift into 2nd or 1st at speed, you really should double-de-clutch to help the synchros. Under normal city driving conditions, just as you pull up to a red light, right before you stop, let the clutch pedal up in neutral, push it back down and slide the stick into 1st as the car comes to a halt.

Hmm, my 195/60R15 on 6.5 inch wide rims, with 35psi still rubbed the shoulder Tuesday at a track driving course. So, yes the profile make a BIG difference.

What are the odds?? I just suggested this method on another post....I heard it from a Sube mech too!

Remove the lower hose to drain the engine as fully as possible. To avoid the really massive air-bubbles in the flat engine, detach the upper hose and fill the engine slowly. Once the hose starts to fill up, attach to the rad, and fill through the rad opening.

Hydraulic means no adjustment needed. I suppose they have gone for two reasons: Fuel Economy, since they do add a small amount of extra resistance to motion. And of course, the reason for most things: Money! Solid lifters are cheaper, and they will keep the customer coming back to have them adjusted. (Okay, so the interval is a very fair 60k miles, but anyway..)

Odd, my RE720 Potenza's keep their colour well.

Hear you on the plugs, but I have an irrational fear about messing with them :-)

Looking at my signature, EJ201 is a revised EJ20 - main difference is the sad loss of hydraulic lifters - but still 2.0 liter displacement.

Well, it's probably easiest to use the chassis number signifier, like Mercedes does. My first generation Impreza sedan is GC8. That would be GF8 for the stationwagon. My first gen Legacy was BC7....making the wagon BF7. These numbers show up in the full chassis number, I recall my Legacy was JF1BC7AL0E.... Hunt around, I am sure you will the find the codes for other years and models. Engines: The EJ series was introduced in the Legacy in 1989, and the basic design lives on. EJ22 has a 2.2 liter displacement. Previous engine series was EA...but I don't know what the numbers mean!

Yep, that snot is perfectly normal! All cars do that. I would recommend draining the coolant out of the engine and overflow tank. Remove the overflow tank and rinse it well, plenty of gunk in the bottom of it! Mount it back in the car, and fill to the FULL mark with water. Fill the engine with pure water - demineralised please - and run it for a few miles to dissolve the gunk in the system. Then drain that out, and re-fill with a coolant that can handle the temperatures you'r expecting. 50% glycol should cover most ranges. If you're unsure about purging the coolant system of air, do a search on the site, plenty of advice already given out. I would stay away from "coolant flushes", they are caustic and God knows what they do to aluminium and rubber seals.. While you're at it, you might want to replace the main coolant hoses, and the radiator cap.

Well, yes, from the Germans or Italians you'd expect around 160bhp from a 2.2, and probably 260bhp from Honda ;-) Even so, it pulls well from 2500rpm to 6500rpm, don't you think? Better a nice even spread of torque, with good throttle response, than some 9000rpm VTEC that's dead below 5000rpm. Oh, the low stress also means that an EJ22 will go over 200k miles without wincing.

Buy a better tyre. Don't polish, wax, or shine the tyre sidewall. If you must, stay FAR away from the tyre shoulder, you would be surprised how much of the tyre actually gets used during cornering - especially in an emergency.

Most "Driving lights" are just fog lights, and the must be mounted low in order to make a useful attempt at shining underneath the fog. I my opinion, fog lights are useless add-ons that are only used in vain attempts to make a car look more sporty. Good driving lights, like Hella FF75 do a fine job of lighting far ahead, even when mounted low, the trick is to make sure the beam is shining parallel to the road, not up or down. As mentioned in the above post, this doesn't really improve on the road surface immediately in front of the car. This would be the only instance where fog lights would be an advantage. HOWEVER, lighting up the road surface right in front of the car will degrade your night-vision, because so much light is reflected back up into your eyes, meaning that objects in the distance will be invisible. So fog lights are not for high speeds.

Rod and crank bearing failure is rare in Subes, dont worry about it :-)

Yeah? Why swap a Sube engine into a Porsche? The flat-six in 911's is awesome! Surely the cost of repairing a busted one can't outweigh cost of a WRX engine swap? It's not just bolt-in. And where are you going to put the radiator?

Have the "heli-coils" at the ready! Studs will tear the old thread out of the heads :-(

Yep, I would run down BillAileo's list, and add the hose replacement suggested by Morgan. If I were to nit-pick, I would remove interior trim, especially in the boot, and check for blocked drain holes and the resulting standing water.

Well, the really big debate centers around what oil to use in the manual transmissions. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between two oils going into your differentials. Synthetics have a number of advantages over mineral, but do cost more. I am a synth man. Having experimented with most of the "big players" oils, I hold Castrol products in very high esteem. Long story short, eh?

Drain plug gaskets, no question.

Bucking. How bad? The engine mounts are fairly soft, and the slack that follows AWD will exacerbate this. It should be worst when letting off the gas between 2000 and 2500rpm. Learn to step off smoothly, or replace the mounts with STi items. This problem is annoying me too! No idea on the speed chime. Taxi's in Singapore have those....ding-ding...ding-ding once you are above 80km/h! Not able to help on the cruise either. Pretty poor show, really!

Subylvr, the early 1990 models will not last 120k miles before the bearings collapse. A 1993, with 202k miles, and an unknown maintenance record (unknown to me, anyway) can have main bearing problems. Yes?