maozebong

yes, it has been warm n wet in the midwest lately as well. sorry, i forgot to mention, its a 91 loyale, spfi ea82. i drive probably about 20-30 miles each day, round trip, for work. i don't drive it lightly either. the 235/75/15s need more loud pedal to get them rolling than the stock 13's so usually 4-5k shifts and aggressive driving in general. i usually am under the hood more often, adding fluids and such, but since i resealed and did the pcv reroute, it hasnt been using oil and coolant for once only reason i suppose i was paranoid is that the overflow dropped an inch, but i guess it could have been an air bubble that has been there since i changed the radiator hoses a month ago??? maybe i should ask, what level of milky goop should i be alarmed about? and if the intake gaskets leak (because they are the cheapo cardboard ones, unknown age) would the blowby from a leak be able to make slightly more than the average condensation?

thank you everyone for the information, im going to cobble it together this weekend, and update. i used to run one on my honda prelude and it really smoothed out the whole powerband, and made cold starts easier. it really helps especially at lower engine speeds when bogging was more likely, and giving it a bit more nuts where it would normally bog. but obd1 honda ignitions are stout and can easily support 3 times the stock power levels, so its coming off the honda and going on the roo! subaru ignitions are really basic and the simple canister coil. i imagine with a good solid higher output coil paired with a capacitive discharge box, i bet it picks up a decent bit of nuts.

coolant level in the overflow has dropped an inch over the past 3 weeks, no leaks otherwise. coolant doesnt look like any combustion byproducts are getting in, and the oil isnt frothy. all breather hoses are new and a dealer pcv valve. coolant doesnt spit out when engine is running without radiator cap on either. so no real symptoms of a head gasket failiure other than the froth on the cap and miniscule amounts in the breather tubes. im just kinda nervous about a 1k mile road trip i have to make in a month. i dont want to replace HG's or intake gaskets in some random town on the side of the road. its just ALOT more in the oil cap than ive previously seen.

like the thread says, i have an abnormal amount of chocolate milk under my oil cap. there is a tiny bit in the breather hoses as well. so, what's your guys' take on it? headgaskets? intake manifold gaskets (they appear to be the thin cardboard BS ones) throttle body gasket or just condensation?

id check to see that you first are getting power to the crank angle sensor, then see if its getting a signal. that's just how the FSM says to go about it, and i was in the same spot as you and ended up replacing the ecu because it wasnt powering the CAS. when these alternators go out, or moreso the rectifier bridge, it puts out AC voltage and it can kill all kinds of electronics. in my case, it blew out the ecu, headlight bulbs, the dome light, the radio fuse, and tail light bulbs. in any case, id follow the FSM flow chart so that you chase things in the right order at least.

i recently picked up a different ignition for my project race car, so i have a free MSD CD box i can try out in the soob. so, the question is, if you have it, how did you wire it up? did you wire like this: (wire colors irrelevant, its a diagram for a dodge, but should be the same concept) also, does it work with the stock coil at all? im kinda giddy about it all and don't want to wait till i get enough cheddar for a proper coil if it works. thanks again fellas. you guys are great!

the ruts on hatteras can get really deep. my 235/75/15's give me tons of clearance. ive gotten out of some sticky situations and deep soft sand on the point just because of the clearance. but that was mostly my fault. i was trying to light a cigarette while driving and i bounced out of the ruts and got into some super soft, dry stuff.

~800 miles from cincinnati, ohio. every penny for gas is worth it. i typically stay with friends at their beach house out there that they rent when they arent there. best part is that its quiet. really quiet, and you can't hear anything but waves at night.

i loooove cape hatteras. best ************ the east coast has to offer. dig it, my wagon at cape point last year.

seafoam it, change the oil, fuel filter, plugs and wires if they aren't already new, check the timing belts to make sure they are still in alignment and tight, and put a OEM PCV valve in (from the dealer, yes it does matter. it can mean the difference of chugging down 1qt of oil every 750 miles or 1qt every 3k) change any hoses on the car that show any signs of cracking, and then enjoy your car for the next decade. all this can be done for <$100 and will make any old crusty ea82 that has been sitting in a yard for 8 years, and make it run like a top. there isnt much too bad about the ea82 NON-TURBO, that is.

you need to connect the connectors at the firewall (read more about it in the FSM) to lock ignition timing at base timing (20 btdc) the jumpiness you see is normal, and is the ecu adjusting timing. if it is still jumpy with the timing locked, you have an issue.

i have a motive pressure bleeder and a hand pump vacuum style. if i had the lines off already like you id do brake cleaner and compressed air. the pressure bleeder can only do a max of 30 psi... shop air is 120, plus you'd be using a solvent. yeah, id do the latter instead of spending money on a pressure bleeder. for what its worth, i use the pump the brakes with clear tubing on the lines so i can see when the bubbles are out. works considerably better than a vacuum pump, and a million times cheaper than a pressure bleeder. its only worth it to get one of those bleeders if you bleed brakes alot, and only on the cars you have the adapter to fit. for example, i have one, and only the adapter to fit mazda miata and others that share a similar threaded round reservoir. but, all i work on for the most part is purpose built race miata's and i bleed the brakes once a month or so. useful for me, but ask yourself, how often will you bleed them, and what could you get for the price of one? PS: i got the pcv fittings the other day! thanks

loose timing belts can make the setting the timing very difficult. do you have the test connectors (green unplugged ones on firewall) connected?

on my 91 loyale there is a electronic hatch (i think, could be retarded, but there is a rod that connects it to the lock) lock that is SUPPOSED to lock when you lock the doors with the key, but its dead. more than likely from the lock being really stiff, and nearly siezed. if that is the case, id look into something like that from a junkyard loyale.

interesting. thanks for the clarification guys. ill get out there and check out those cone washers. i didn't clean them off last time i did the bearings so that split is probably packed with dirt.

is there any way of identifying if the cone washer is shot, aside from obvious stuff? like, do they get smaller and not maintain clearance that well? or are you talking about the slightly coned flat washer (bellville?) between the nut and the much larger cone shaped spacer. ill look into scooping some up. i have all the proper hardware in place, according to the FSM. there is no way they could last any bit of time torqued to 30ftlbs. i originally torqued it to 150, then increased by 25ftlbs each time the noise came back, maxed out the 250ftlb torque wrench, noise came back, and i pulled out the breaker bar and jumped on it till i got to the next pin hole. and that's where im at now.

so, like the title says, i did my wheel bearings less than a year ago, and im already getting the loose wheel bearing noises and a pulsing brake pedal yet again. ive searched through 8 pages without a definitive answer. ive tightened the nut several times as tight as i can get it with a 2ft breaker bar, and my 180lb self jumping on the bar, advancing to another pin hole each time, and the problem has gone away each time... but im afraid i might have worn out the bearing by now. i torqued the rear retainer ring to 110 ftlbs when i did them, and used a quality heavy duty grease (almagard 3752). the stub on the bearings are on was quite a bit rusty, i cleaned it up with sandpaper, but the bearing doesn't slide on by any means. so, did i do them wrong, or is it because of the fact im rolling on 29" tires? or am i missing something?

that looks strangely like this grease i use on various places on the race miata's i build/maintain. it might be Almagard 3752, made by LE. its good stuff. holds up to tons of abuse, and when i did my wheel bearings last time, i used this stuff. once you get it on your fingers and compare it side by side you will know what i mean.

CI oils are intended for keeping combustion byproducts (soot/carbon/etc) suspended in the oil. diesels have much dirtier combustion byproducts than a SI engine. but on a side not, that is less carbon and soot that will build up in your oiling system. diesel oils are designed with longer service life in mind along with the pressures of >15:1 CR. the oil tends to be additive rich to im going to have to disagree with you that using diesel oil is bad. i can only agree that if it is an outdated API rating, to not use. but you also have to consider, the EA82 was designed 20 years ago, with older and outdated oil additive packs. also, upon further research, diesel oils have high zddp content (zinc) which is good for bearings and other metal to metal contact points because the zinc deposits on the metal surfaces and wears away the zinc instead of the part itself. they don't recommend use of diesel oils because of emission laws mostly, and the fact zinc can cause premature catalytic converter failure. long story short, its good for your engine, not that good for the environment. diesels just fall under a different emissions category.

x2. bad gas happens all the time. its not just shell. as far as their oil is concerned, its one of the most trusted brands of oil for a diesel truck.

it was my understanding that diesel oil is just formulated to burn at a higher temperature than spark ignited oil, due to the extreme compression that takes place in a diesel. i found a local parts store near me that carries 10w-30 rotella, non-synth. i use it with great results, seems to be a bit thicker than the average 10w30. ive tried rotella t6 once, but due to some issues with oil leaks and a non-dealer pcv valve (i burned up 4qts in 1500 miles until i changed it for a dealer PCV) burning up all my oil, it didn't stay n the motor long

do you have overhead pics to see the number of detent balls? it looks like an old NRG one kinda.

can you verify that you are getting air in the system when you are bleeding the brakes? ive heard of the hill holders leaking after a while and sometimes they wont leak if you have the lever in the right position. but ive also seen a few times that soft lines can get soft after a while and they flex under brake pressure. i chased down the same issue on an old dodge 1 ton van trying to bleed and bleed and bleed every possible way but with no luck. replaced the 3 soft lines on it and it was gravy.

just as a little tidbit for those looking for projectors, http://www.theretrofitsource.com they have several types, sizes and whatnot. some requiring more modification than what turbone has. i have a set of projectors that i was going to put on my prelude build, but i think id rather have them on my daily, seeing as my prelude doesnt even see wet roads or temps below 40. what did you use for the initial surface smoothing? and is it possible to lay a flat piece of glass over the headlight instead of the original lens? i might be able to get one jet cut if the projector clears. if i can have the glass closer to the bulb, the heat will melt snow easier hopefully.