maozebong

did you take the strut out? i just popped off the sway bar link and the strut tops and put a boot on the hub. i had my fronts installed in about 30-45 min tops (not bad for a first timer)... i also used a 3/8s impact gun, and a crows foot socket for holding the bolt on the underside. i tightened the blocks to the top with a swivel sockets or wrenches. only reason it wasnt doing down any farther was because the axle was hitting the crossmember. idk if its the same in other cases, but i guess that's mine. i got lotsa tools to make my day easy. edit: bratclay, you have the exact same wheels as i do lol. i got mine for 35 bucks off craigslist. and i rattle canned em black too! ha

you are gonna have a hell of a time getting those blocks with welded bolts in. when i did mine (2 days ago lol) i didnt weld them on the advice of one eye. that way you dont have to jam the strut down farther than 2 in. you can get away with only unbolting the sway bar link and the strut that way. it was tight fitting without it, i cant imagine trying to get it with the bolts welded. also the rear straps (at least ones i made) are 4in long, 1 3/4" wide and 3/8'' thick. they are heated and bent at a 45* angle in the middle. drill holes at each end about 3/4'' from the end and centered. pretty simple stuff. also keep in mind you are going to need a 1/2" hole for the straps. the rear shock bolts are rather large. i didnt have any issues with alignment in the rear and didnt have to weld anything.

correct me if im wrong here but that light shouldnt even be on while driving. you probably have one of the diagnostic connectors under hood connected that shouldnt be.

haha funniest thing i have heard all day! i bet RAM casts their own heads for these, and i can guarantee nothing is even close to the same! it would be awesome to have a guy like larry widmer of endyn to a custom cast ea head. if it was ITB'd or twin manifolds, with a properly designed cylinder head the EA could be revved to the moon and stay up there (with a supporting valvetrain of course) and make great motor for racing. i love hindsight engineering discussions:popcorn:

thanks GD i guess my fears are unfounded. too bad FHI was using too much intake manifold theory and not enough testing when they made the SPFI heads and intake. old intake theory said that 2-phase intake tract said (2 phase meaning one long log runner that connects a section to feed each cyl. 1st phase is the log and 2nd phase is each cyl runner) that the 2nd phase should be as short as possible while keeping the ideal air flow velocity through the runner. but as we have found out, intake tract design does much better with a proper length runner and a plenum than the old log style. fuji enginners really took that to heart with the ea82. edit: dug up my dyno sheet, 77.1whp @ 5k 282.8wtq at 3k now another thing i was wondering, is there any poor man's HP tricks for these motors? i noticed the muffler was fairly restrictive with the inlet/outlet differences, so that's first on my list, maybe a custom made header if my boss gets off his rump roast and orders me a tubing bender.

a rule of thumb i have been going on is that i avoid driving it if my oil pressure is too far over 45psi at a high idle. (i know the dash gauge is not accurate, but its the principle) mine does not like being run very cold. i wish i had a block heater if anyone had one they could throw my way it would make my day.

miles, this is why im asking my fellow old gen subaru nuts on some advice on this. you guys have said "soob mojo" and it'd be a huge help to not diagnose all day in the snow. i have taken automotive classes, and graduated with an associates degree in applied automotive sciences, ASE's in steering/suspension and brakes (would have more if i cared enough to get them:lol: i also have a certificate from the same school for hi-performance (consists of a advanced class for: block and rotating assy, cyl heads and porting, assembly, fuels and tuning, and trans/driveline) its safe to say im not a noob for being only 21. ive built 5 performance motors so far and a handful of rebuilds. ill test my temp sensor tomorrow, check fuel pressure (spec is roughly 20 psi right?), compression, and get back to you guys. thanks for the help.

valve timing is more than likely not off if i had to guess. whole timing assy is less than 20k miles old. ignition timing is at 20* with green connectors connected to lock timing. dyno was 77whp and ~230wtq in 2nd gear. is this about right for a healthy ea82 spfi? tires are stock sized 185/75-13 oil is conventional 10w30. never hi milage or synthetic. tick only happens at startup on the coldest ohio mornings (~0*) and never lasts longer than 4 seconds. egr valve works, the valve solenoid not positive. when i pull up on the diaphragm of the valve it starts to stall. i only have one check engine light, and its 35 (evap solenoid?) thats it. would the purge solenoid be enough to interfere with acceleration below 3k? also, idle is 1000rpm, and holds solid. only things i have not checked is fuel pressure and fuel filter. and a few random vacuum lines related with the pushbutton 4wd. it just seems like below 3000rpm it feels like its holding back. also more throttle works to a point, then, just intake noise. seems to like feathering into the throttle more than WOT.

so, i have a 91 loyale. ea82 nonturbo. when its cold its got a hell of a hesitation, especially when cold before 3k. not to mention its just wicked slow when cold. cap-rotor-plugs-wires are less than 2 weeks old. they made a great improvement on the power, but there is still next to no power below 3k and not impressive above. i had the car dyno'd at school with only fresh plugs gapped to .045, a seafoaming in the intake, crank case, fuel and a fresh oil change. ive replaced quite a few vacuum hoses, but not all. i tried spraying starting fluid around the engine bay, but no results. idle is a steady 1k rpm, and does not hunt. idle only dips lower in random condition (ecu still sees warm temp but coolant and oil have cooled). it has lifter tick when really cold for no more than 5 sec, but noise is completly quiet afterwards. help me out and point me in the right direction. edit: forgot to post dyno result. in 2nd gear, 77whp , ~230wtq timing is at 20*

old plow headlights would probably be your cheapest bet. turn signals, and a frame for a sealed beam headlight, they mount with one or two bolts and can be aimed without too much strife.

i have an msd 6a in my 93 prelude project car. i really love it. cold starts are easier and the entire powerband is smooth. if i come across another msd box im gonna be throwing it in my soob. just not wanting to pay 100 for another :-\ although, ive heard the msd ignition boxes do not work with accel for some reason... wonder why?

see if its possible to get a 5/8 hose fitting on there. i hate not getting the parts that are advertised.

sounds like its gonna be a blast! i look forward to seeing pics of this, and if i lived in your neck of the woods, id be right there with you! id probably run it in 4wd hi, you wont be able to get any speed otherwise. you might want to consider a welded rear diff if you will be on snow the majority of the time. bring a couple axles and boots with you and have fun!

ive replaced my exhaust studs with a fine pitch metric bolts. helicoil is all good and fine, but bolts are cheaper than helicoil and studs. fine threads are good for something you dont want to rattle loose or have high loads on it. the more threads there are, the more surface area there is for holding.

clean everything off with brake clean and start the motor and watch. its not too hard, and you arent adding junk to your oil. if needed get one of those led flashlights and check throughly.

does your heater core leak all over the floor? can you smell it by the tailpipe, or in the engine compartment? i had a pinhole leak on one of the throttle body heat lines and i never saw coolant on the ground. it would pool up on the top of the block and make that familiar smell of it burning.

when you hook up a catch can, its supposed to be inline with the PCV vacuum source. ive ran multiple catch cans on several cars, turbo or non. crankcase->catch can->manifold vacuum you can also hook it up to your exhaust at a 45, use the bernouli effect to create crankcase vacuum. GM did this for a grip

which foam do you use?

i have repaired all my big rust holes like the OP's and two that leaked water over the rear wheels. i used roofing tin for my patches, pop riveted over the holes. i trimmed away all the old rust first, sealed with a tiny bit of silicone caulk, and afterwards, filled the hole up with great stuff expanding foam. never leaks water or mud so i think it works somewhat alright for a 1-2 hour fix.

i had a problem like this where the little metal ring on the horn came loose. take the wheel off and see if it is. if so, just snap it back in place.

ive smoked cigarettes while rebuilding carburators, replacing fuel pumps, etc. ive yet to see a cigarette ever start a fire with gasoline. i work in a highly ventilated shop, which im sure helps. i also smoke with it just hanging from my mouth. i dont touch it with my hands, but that's mainly so the chemicals in question on my hands dont get on the cig.

mcmaster. they are a supply company for manufacturing. you might need to get the thread pitch, total length, and splined dia. http://www.mcmaster.com they have every grade of steel from mild steel to grade G (i never knew they made grade G, they said F it and went past the number scale )

id say either you messed something up, or you are using too light weight oil.. but it is supposed to be 10 psi at 1k rpm. what weight oil did u use?

you cant be serious.. thats a bigger coolant leak than the hole in the radiator. anytime the system can't be pressurized, the boiling point of coolant is lowered and you boil it all out because it will boil close to 30* lower than pressurized.

found the coolant leak... it was the radiator and the fins are trashed and crumbling. thats it! when it started running, the lifters on the passenger side head are ticking. i searched a bit and tried the seafoam trick, 8oz in the crankcase and ran it for about 10 min. the lifters immediately quieted down some, but did not get rid of it fully. it is much quieter now though, and sounds much much healthier. thanks to everyone on usmb for the information and posting thier problems and solutions for meticulous review when i am searching.