maozebong

Dual exhaust loses scavenging abilities on a 4 cylinder. Expect notable losses.

take it apart and resolder the cracked solder joints. works almost every time.

as far as flushing solvents, ive had luck with CLR for removing mineral/rust buildup. ive also had some success with BG products too. i add them in the system and drive it for a week or two, then flush. there is no substitute for a large volume of water though. after using cleaners, debris has to be carried away. i also had similar symptoms when i had a minor intake gasket leak on my ea82. burping the system with a coolant funnel made it go away for a week or two at a time. i replaced the gasket and still had problems til i found the leak at the throttle body. then the problem was gone.

Ah, so excited... only to find an 8 year old thread.

im not sure you can do that, both alternator mounts is on the compressor bracket. you need the non-ac alternator bracket. its way to flimsy and puts forces on the intake, worsening any intake gasket sealing. you dont really need to get rid of it, the alternator belt barely puts pressure on the compressor pulley. i had a siezed one on my old rig for a few years. if the ac doesnt work, just take off the other belt. one belt is adequate to turn the two other pumps and alternator.

pm'd welder said he would be able to weld it, ill post a resolution when the case gets fixed. seems like a spot low enough to hit when offroad.

There is no brass, it's all aluminum. There is a step in the hole, the inner hole is slightly larger than the OD of the detent ball, and the wider portion is the m10 threaded hole for the plug. I dont have a pic of what it looks like normally other than its supposed to have more threads. I have 3 threads leftover and enough room to tap the threads 1/4" deeper or so. If the spring is cut shorter to compensate, the only issue left is sealing the plug with silicone... Which can probably be done when it's clean and on the garage floor. I'll try to tap it tonight after work and report how well it works. If not I'll be disassembling the unit to take the case over to a welder/machine shop, since I don't know how to tig properly.

when i bought my last wagon, the fuel pump was dead on arrival, as was the engine. after the rebuild, i tried to start it but nothing... i unbolted it from the panel and gave it a good whack with the end of my flashlight (its a big rump roast streamlight stinger), and it has been running since. i did stick a new fuel filter in there before starting anything though, and 3 gallons of fresh gas, since the tank was nearly empty. mine is a lucky case, you never know how bad a tank of gas can get after a few years.

i was there when you got them done, it was at the gregs japanese auto in downtown seattle, i used to work there. i remember laughing at how the shaft of the shocks would drop to the bottom with no resistance. they were definitely blown. if the shocks are giving you trouble, take it back over to them, and pm me when you do, ill call the manager over there and tell him what's up. the technician who did it is pretty good normally, but everybody makes mistakes sometimes. i also remember that engine bay, nothing short of mint condition... i was drooling lol

So, I picked up a dirty 5mt from a guy on craigslist, got it home and started scrubbing and found one of the shifter detent ball and plug missing, due to what looks like someone dropping the transmission on the ground. Anyways, since the chances of getting my money back are slim, has anyone dealt with this before? There are a few threads left on the hole and room for more threads if i tap it farther. I can get a spring and detent ball in there, but I doubt it would be a long term fix. Silicone and jb weld can only do so much with oil soaked aluminum. I have a single range transmission, is it possible to use the case half from it, since its the side that the low range lever doesn't come out of? If not, does anyone have any DR case halves collecting dust? specifically the drivers side half.

yeah but the point is to have a stiff rear end sway bar so that if you goose it, it can break loose and understeer less. go with a 3pc sway bar, they have fancy unlocking ones for jeeps that could be adapted if youre creative. https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/currie-antirock-kits-jeep/currie-ce-9900-antirock-front-sway-bar-kit-jeep-tj/?gclid=CMT34uPt5MoCFYNsfgodff0CdQ and if youre on 3 wheels in a lifted subaru, youre probably going to kill yourself. the rears have several inches of drop before lifting a tire.

if youve never had a car this old, you have to "keep them running" when extremely cold if you don't have yours well maintained. if you ask me, you probably have a vacuum leak.

most CDI ignition module boxes have rev limiters can be wired to ea81 and ea82 ignition systems. they are universal and get wired "in series" with the coil. accel, msd, mallory, to name a few. i use one on all my ea82's with excellent results, more consistent plug burn times and multiple spark below 2500 rpm (i think). however, i dont think a rev limiter is necessary and never actually hit mine.

passenger front floorboards: all power and ground for windows splice off one (two actually, one power/one ground) 10 ga wire under the carpet. they are not sealed from the elements, just wrapped in tape... and soggy boots in the winter tend to soak it in salty water.

Id check the wiring splice under the passenger carpet if you havent yet. door jamb wires are possible too, but harder to check

ah, kudos to you and caboobaroo for doing the legwork on this... its always helpful if youre on the road and have to go to a random parts house for parts. its hard enough to get stuff for ea82 wagons in part houses these days, knowing that one off an early legacy or svx will not only bolt up, but improve the braking is a gem of some knowledge.

you should use 0w30. that way its thick enough for hot operation. the latest and greatest 0w30 synthetic oils pour like hot 30wt. when its cold out you decrease the "w" number. never decrease the second number, only increase under hot weather.

rotating the tires can eliminate if the front tires were the problem. 7 out of 10 times, vibrations over 55 are in the tires/tire balance. fix-a-flat can also cause some gnarly vibrations if too much is added.

I've had axles that altogether to would never fit, as they were .004" bigger than the hole. Took quite a while to sand that one down, reman garbage. When I removed it, it took a 2 jaw puller to get it out of the hub, and it took the bearing with it. I'd rather mine be able to remove easily if on a trail or whatever.

Get one of those cheesy spectre maf adapter flanges. Then pipe to snorkel.

heated wideband o2 sensor! believe it or not, your o2 sensor does feedback something to the ecu. you can expect a noticeable increase in fuel economy.

i used to run LM1s in the spec miata cars i used to build. they are a good solid unit, and dont even need the gauge to run. the 14point7 gauge is built into the controller (at least mine is), so mounting can be tricky to do. i remember it had the calibration button, did you ever have problems in offroad use, or havent tried it? for everyone else: basically the sensor needs its own power and ground, and the controller needs a separate power and ground. i chose to make my power and ground lines splice into the same spot on the fusebox. pick an unused fuse on the fusebox section under the dash. there is a green/red wire taped up on the fusebox harness that is an unused switched power source. if you have this circuit in use, pick another. i have heard many say that you need an engine ground, but i grounded mine to one of the dash mounting bolts right below the radio and had no ill effects. if youre a stickler for accuracy, feel free to run them to the engine block. the last part is the simulated narrowband output. this is what replaces your stock o2 output. pin 34 on the ecu, its a white wire. trace the wire back little bit and its shielded. cut it and solder in your new simulated narrowband output. run the cable through either of the electrical harness plugs in the firewall, and install a bosch lsu 4.9 sensor into the exhaust, and enjoy the butter smooth closed loop operation.

you should follow the trouble tree in the FSM pdf, it sounds like youre chasing your tail. the trouble tree has you check ecu power and grounds first, and then the crank angle sensor. if your ecu doesnt have power and grounds then it can't power the fuel pump or ignition relays. coil is continuously powered, and gets the ground switched via the igniter riveted to the coil bracket. igniter bracket needs clean ground. the ignition relay is powered by the ECM (g/w, pin 28, specific connector not listed. the B wire at the ign relay is a ground, it shouldnt have voltage, or more than .5ohms to ground) check that you have power and ground at the ECM, and that it outputs 12v to the crank angle sensor in the distributor. no distributor signal, no spark or fuel pump. pcm failures are not unheard of, and my first subaru needed one to get it running.

keep adding water til you see where its leaking from. cooling systems are supposed to be 100% filled, zero air. "a little low" can cause hotspots in the engine/heads, which is a serious problem for an engine that likes to crack heads like the EA82T

does anyone run a wideband 02 sensor/sensor controller here? if you do, what kind? ive been running an SLC pure plus (http://www.14point7.com/products/sigma-lambda-controller-pure-plus-2-1 <--- the newer model of what i have, im using original SLC pure plus) for 3 years with excellent effects, but was thinking of switching up for a visually more appealing gauge like the AEM or Innovate. if you run one, id like to hear your thoughts. if not, would anyone like to see a few pics how to install such a thing and have it feedback to your SPFI ECU's o2 sensor signal line? i just pulled it from my white wagon that i just retired, and when i reinstall it into my newfound beauty i can take notes and pictures for you fine folks of USMB. they are a very easy install, as simple as 2 power, 2 ground wires, a ecu feedback line, and the shielded cable to the sensor. there are inputs for datalogging rpm, temp and more if you care, but mine is just wired for the wideband sensor. benefits: *more accurate idle fuel mixture and fuel mix monitoring *fuel trim troubleshooting made easy, never guess what AF ratio youre at. *heated 02 sensor gets to temp in 5 seconds. cold start warmup cycles waste much less gas. *closed loop driving economy (steady highway cruise) is improved. *no ugly wiring of relays just for a inaccurate narrowband's heater.. most wideband controllers also control the heater, as the sensor monitors the *current required to keep the sensor at xxx degrees