maozebong

Id actually recommend the opposite, take them apart and polish the contact surfaces with wd40 and 3000grit sandpaper. They are absurdly simple to rebuild, the hardest part being removing the retainer clip to get it to pop apart. Once apart, the most important part is to fully clean any oil varnish and sludge out, and clean the spot where the check ball seats. Then reassemble with any clean engine oil (i used hy-per lube, a thick additive) and the lifters should prime right up. the check ball likes to stick in place from oil varnish, causing lots of lifter complications and noise. With Cleaning and polishing, i was able to have next to zero lifter noise on my last 2 fresh engine reseals. There are videos of mazda lifter rebuilds on youtube for reference; they have very similar engineering.

it very well can make noise, but to which degree, i dont know.

It would be in the form of a direct line pressure accumulator going bad, like a piston gets stuck and then any pressure fluxuations from gear changes dont end up pushing waves of fluid pressure back to the pump. Water hammering in household pipes has a similar effect when the pressure is very high. Slamming a sink faucet shut quickly sends a pressure wave back through the pipe and if the pipe is loose in mounting it makes a solid bang!

other than pumping efforts, it could be possible one of those accumulator type of pistons for pressure regulation got stuck and is causing a "hydraulic hammering" to the oil pump gear.

Thanks for that, its such a curious wear but the shaft is pretty skinny, so that doesnt help. This one in my new wagon is thankfully low mileage and the pump shaft probably isnt too bad yet. Ill just do my aforementioned maintenance and keep rolling with it in the project.

To increase the rpm of the shift points, turn the screw in clockwise (with vacuum modulator removed, its easy to break the brass screw in it if youre coming from an angle). If im not mistaken, each turn increases shift points about 3-400 rpm, or at least it did on mine. I like mine higher and line pressure to be higher (less slip on gear change) so i set it for 3750. I had to turn the new one in ~5 turns on mine.

DaveT, i have found those threads but the pictures are broken. Most of the 3at info on this board references broken links to the old usrm, and other sources... Doesnt help that the original person who scanned the 88/89 fsm left out the transmission and differentials sections. I have scoured identifix, alldata, prodemand, and iatn, and the best i have found is a valve body exploded diagram.(also got detailed interior electrical diagrams!) None have much if any info on the transmissions. Anyone know the band adjustment procedure? I noticed slight 2nd gear slip this morning when i accidentally took off in 2nd.

Do you have any pictures of what you speak of? Thats quite the peculiar hard part to fail, but im sure its quite long, stretching through the differential.

I think this 3at hasnt been too abused, it had one owner before the one owner parked it from bad intake gaskets. Shifts are clean and stall test seems to be okay as well (2200rpm in d). I myself am a master mechanic, so maintanence will be about as good as it gets. although AT's are not my specialty, i know enough to rebuild and diagnose various issues as well as pass the transmission ASE test. I replaced my vacuum modulator late last night. shift points are too low now, all before 20mph, i didnt feel like digging further. hopefully fiddling with the tiny screw inside the modulator will fix that.

ive seen the discussion on the few posts left, about the pull/clean/reinstall on it. seems straightforward. im more looking for the rest of the ea82 service manual. the current pdf cuts off after the wiring section. if i have to buy it, does anyone know where i can get the complete FSM?

im looking for the FSM section about the 3at. i recently acquired a 76k mile loyale 3AT 4WD, and i want to clean out the governor valve, replace the vacuum modulator (have a new one on hand) and completely flush the fluid and clean the filter screen afterwards. later, plans are to add a very large cooler, and experiment with how long it can hold up to big tires and off road abuse, and potentially reworking the valve body to deal with it. highway cruising speeds with the 3at are about the same rpm as what i ran my 5spd at in 4th gear with 215/75/15 tires, so i feel like it holds the engine in the powerband where it needs to be to run large tires at highway speeds. iirc, they held up the power of some turbo models, and similar variants of the jatco 3AT were put on nissans and mazdas with much more power than a spfi EA82. its possible they have torque converters that might interchange with a higher stall speed too. if it doesnt end up working out, ill be looking into a 4EAT swap, or possibly a full drivetrain swap from a 4.44 ej powered vehicle. the car is being built for a mini 4x4 camper, with sleeping platform, auxilary battery and inverter system, propane mini heater, curtains, accent lights, etc etc. i figured having the FSM section on hand might help, and the PDF of the 89 ea82 FSM doesnt include it. otherwise i might order a chilton or haynes manual. anything on the 3at was on the old usmb and doesnt exist anymore, the governor cleaning procedure isnt even up anymore. anyone have any input on this? avoiding these transmissions like a plague just because some people are scared of the red oil is kinda dumb. they are about as simple as automatics get, honestly. thoughts?

yeah, the only adjustment is toe on the front end. i always ask for mine to be set to zero toe in the front, and remind the tech that the steering wheel might have been removed once to "correct" a crooked wheel. over the course of a few alignments, the adjustment is maxed out on one side, and about to fall out on the other because the steering wheel got moved. ask for them to prove the knuckle failed, and if they can't, get a raincheck on the alignment for a day when someone more intelligent will do the work. check the arm on the knuckle, and the distance between it and the rotor, make sure its even between both sides... but that's very uncommon considering how much abuse many on here can attest them handling. i think the tech doesnt know how to align vehicles, or is not mounting the sensor correctly.

a big tip to spfi troubleshooting, test all these values at the ecu, and wiggle the harness section/connectors by the battery. i find at least 2-3 harness problems on spfi's a year that come in my shop. alternatively, backprobe at the engine harness connector. the engine harness is frequently unsecured and flexes when the engine moves. causes alot of intermittent engine lights and issues.

id be curious to see if there is a steel ring pressed on the center of the drum's splined section. pics if you guys have them, please.

like the title says, i need a favor. i recently went to do my rear wheel bearings (only 20k miles on them and they failed) and noticed the outer seal doesnt come close to sealing on the surface of the drum that it's supposed to ride on. the seal specs list it for a 50mm shaft, and when i measured the surface the seal rides on, on the drum, it measured to 47.5. obviously, this isnt correct... and i threw out the old drums long ago, so i can't check. if i can prove that the drums are the problem part, i can get them warrantied (i bought them through my shop's commercial acct, and my boss is a cheap bastard who doesnt want to warranty my parts.) and not have to pay a dime, nor get one from a junkyard to prove him wrong. so, i know someone can help me save an hour drive to the arlington PnP. help me out, usmb!

yeah, with the rust and body damage, 4k is far too much, even for a northwest car. there are mint condition brat's going for 4-5k. i wouldnt expect too many people to come along for that car, especially for that price. 3k is more reasonable.

that happens when the thermostat doesnt open, and the coolant boils over. thermostat sometimes needs pressure in the system to open it, so the force of coolant pumping around is used to open the thermostat instead of blow out of the filler neck. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0 get one of those. you will never have a problem burping cooling systems on nearly any car, ever again.

i always check voltage outputs of reman alternators. last 4 80's cars ive replaced one on overcharged afterwards ('80 dl hatch, 83 datsun 510, 88 gl, 87 280zx) and my shop uses good parts (denso/bosch depending on application, typically denso). its very common for remanufacturers to replace bearings and brushes and test windings, then clean the case and ship it with bad regulators. another common failure of these alternators is the diode bridge failing, and the car receiving AC current, a DVOM can confirm these issues, you want no more than .1 VAC.

Radius rod bushings do this as well.

we sell that crap in my shop.... i usually add it, but strain out the little white pills inside of sealer with a pocketknife.

kinda sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak if it wont idle, or a defective/dirty MAF sensor. it should have a cold idle between 2000-3000 rpm.

replace the idle valve from one in a junkyard, or disassemble and clean.... but im not completely sure that you can disassemble those. also, verify that the intake boot is not cracked, and the MAF sensor isnt filthy. as for the rotor screw issue, have you checked ignition timing with a timing light? this would verify if it is an actual problem.

its most likely in the carb, depending on what the plugs look like, its probably some gunk in the air bleeds.

i use a 1/2 inch on wheels, axle nuts, and suspension bolts. my 3/8" air gun is capable of +300ftlbs, but that doesnt mean i use it for lug nuts. not only do i not want an air gun rattling in my ear for any longer than it needs to be, and you put more wear on a 3/8" gun doing lug nuts than you wuld on a 1/2" gun that is more suited to do the same lugs. i have a craftsman pro 1/2 impact, an IR 1/2" titanium, and a IR 3/8" composite gun. i typically use the craftsman gun on lugs, because it is my cheapest gun. i also have a 12v dewalt 3/8" impact gun for small bolts, dash work, etc. its fairly small and fits in quite a few places when combined with wobble sockets. i used to have a 18v milwaukee 3/8" gun... it had tons of power for damn near anything i needed to do, but much too bulky. i ended up selling it. if i only had the money for one gun and had no air compressor, the milwaukee would be my choice... but otherwise, pneumatics are still more powerful.

you have to make a new header. the difference is in the length of the header primaries. you will never get it to sound like a new gen subaru without it. this is my scoob, with a straight pipe. could have made the primaries more unequal to get the soobie sound, but i was mostly intending on getting heat away from the axles.