maozebong

ive found that it's usually the wires for the switch on the transmission break off the switch from old age. the switch is the one on the drivers side of the trans.

you are the one who has this on craigslist.... you should let me take this car off your hands. i need a rust free wagon. i also am the one who emailed you the lowball offer. ill raise my offer to 500 knowing you are a usmb member. get at me!

it wont be the same axle... however, swapping sides ensures you get the absolute maximum life from an axle. since the races wear slightly off to one side, not directly in the middle like a ball bearing, swapping from left to right causes them to wear on the barely worn side that previously only saw action when driven in reverse. putting it on the opposite side (and while its out changing the boots) will give you a seemingly fresh axle that will last almost as long as putting a brand new one on. the popping noise is almost always from pitting on the races (where the balls ride), usually from contamination of the grease. once they are cleaned you can see usually the offending spot. if the pitting it isnt too deep, you can polish them down a bit with a small cross buff and it will quiet the noise down. if you have a donor axle with clean races, swapping joints over to a different axle shaft can make a perfect axle from two bad ones. quite a few people including myself do it. aftermarkets are bad because of poor machine work. they dont chamfer the edges of the races, and after a few hundred miles that edge rubs down and becomes a metal contaminant in the grease. the bearing cages are also usually too tight on the cv joint side of the axle, they are usually near zero clearance, which wears metal into the grease as well. one of these days, i plan on buying a new aftermarket axle, take the boots off before installing, and inspect the tolerances... i imagine if i clean it up some with a dremel and repack it with my secret grease, it will last forever... we all have dreams

looks like you bent it.... if it rubs consistently around the whole disc while turning the hub, id say its bent, or you have something betwixt the hub and rotor.

the small wire on the alt plug should have battery voltage. if it doesnt, your alt will not charge properly.

a dedicated axle box would be cool. alternatively, the hatch floor compartment works well. if your axles dont in that box due to junk, maybe relocate the other stuff? i have a milk crate for all my nicknacks and bits of hose and such, a tool bag behind the drivers seat, and the rest in my loyale's hatch storage. for good measure, i have a bungee cord securing the crate. i imagine there are quite a few ways to secure things. maybe something like those locking fishing pole racks for the axles would be ideal.

if i can find some spare cash or come across a decent clunker to fix up and then upgrade, then maybe some exploration in my wagon once its not a daily. im new to the seattle area, and cant wait to tear into some trails... but i have a few other non-offroading projects in the works, so derping around the woods usually takes a backseat.

actually, the fuel is completely cut during decel. pretty much zero fuel is used during engine braking, and if it is, you probably have an engine that pops and backfires on decel. i am 100% sure about this, i have a wideband o2 gauge/sensor installed in my car. during decel, the meter reads 99.99 (full lean, zero fuel present), and while coasting in neutral, the AFR meter reads 14-16:1.... same as idle. Edit: crap, this thread is 8 years old :\

you should do a leakdown test, not compression.

if the filter got that clogged, there is a good chance there is some crap in one of the carburetor air bleeds. if they get clogged, your carb jets start to siphon the fuel in liquid droplets instead of the atomization of the fuel it should be doing.

yeah its unnecessary to even pull the radiator. the closest you ever get to the radiator is breaking the crank pulley loose.

find an ea82t, add manual boost controller and a junkyard holset hx35. set boost to 24lbs, beat coworker, find another motor. or just race him on any surface other than tarmac...

nice. show em your nuts.

if you get a 207s timken bearing, they only come with one seal on them, and you can pack with the grease you please. if you can find it, lubrication engineers makes a grease that when used on all 4 wheel bearings got me 2-4mpg improvement, called monolec 4622. ive tested it personally, and also used it on the race cars i built. and saw lap time improvements over redline grease.

yes. buy a subaru t-stat. all others are poop. yes, it makes a difference. yes, it really makes a difference.

it would have only been two more bolts and removing the fan/radiator. you can support the engine with a 5 gallon bucket and a few boards to get to the desired height, but i still keep a chain to catch it if it ever falls. in the future, i do mobile repair work (ase certified, ex-race team mechanic), and live in seattle. i do everything from electrical diagnostics to drivability issues, and everything else inbetween.

in my experience, its easier to wrestle the engine onto the transmission.... it looks like you left it bolted on the mounts? if you suspend the engine across the engine bay with a fence post and some chain, you can manipulate it much easier than the transmission. whenever i remove a trans, i lift the whole assembly out of the cradle, then support the engine. from there, removing and reinstalling the transmission is easy.

you should have someone with a welder weld a nut on to the sheared nub. its the ultimate easy out.

if you havent already, its much easier to have the engine mounts unbolted. whenever i remove the engine or trans, i always jack them both up (bellhousing attached to engine still) and get the engine off the subframe. put a 2x4 across the fenders and a chain to support the motor (safety chain). place a 5 gallon bucket and 2x4's to make up an extra inch or two of height under the oil pan. then remove belhousing bolts, and shimmy the trans off the car. it can also help the removal process to leave the crossmember on the trans, and a friend can help push it in place. once you are ready, the 2x4 you used to support the engine is now a small hoist for someone to lift (with their legs!) the engine and guide it in place. keep in mind, turning the crankshaft over can help get splines to line up and the input shaft to find its way home in the pilot bearing.

88-91 honda preludes have mechanical 4 wheel steering, if that helps.

not to stir old, but i agree with skishop. ghe just explained it better than i felt the need to. 90% of the cars on the road will see little to no benefit from injector cleaning solutions, unless they have actual physical dirt/grit that has made it past the fuel filter. the reason that solution was ever used in the first place is because it really works on carburetors. carburetors are a passive fuel system, where it is drawn via vacuum mostly, aside from accelerator pump circuits. in a fuel injection system, its pressurized anywhere from 20-60psi, simply the fact that its under pressure means systems can go decades without need for cleaning, as long as the fuel filter does not give way. the pressure blasts most soluble things right through without a hiccup. anything solid has the potential to clog and cause continuous leakage. the only way it will ever improve mileage is if the injector can no longer regulate fuel flow to what it was intended to deliver. for example, say the fuel system is designed to flow 50lph. yours has a clogged filter, which cuts fuel flow in half. your car suffers from power loss, but is otherwise still driveable with a system that only flows 25 lph. even if the o2 reads lean, it can only enrich so much, especially with half of the intended fuel flow. in fact, no matter how much it enriches, it can only use 25lph. this case is just figurative, and the numbers pulled outta my butt, but the principle is the same. this lean condition wont help you pass emissions, but it does answer the question if cleaning will help mileage. as far is spray pattern is concerned, its not really a concern with our motors, or really TBI cars for that matter, because the TBI system was based off starting the fuel by the throttle plate, like a carburetor, so that engine vacuum and a heated intake can assist in the full atomization of fuel. as far away as it is from the combustion process, the spray pattern could be and the driver wouldnt know unless he/she was extremely vigilant and noticed a single hp missing. also, i might be new here, but im no stranger to cars. ive been responsible for a few spec miata motorsports race team successes, associates degrees in auto tech and hi-po engine building and tuning, working on a mechanical engineering degree. my own ea82 has a straight pipe, catless exhaust, and still passes emissions without any sneaky tricks thanks to a wideband o2 sensor and ported heads. im not new to this, thats for sure.

injector cleaning solutions are typically pointless unless you have a tank that is contaminated. think about it. gasoline is a natural solvent. any injector cleanliness issues are going to be bits of dirt and other non-solubles like rust and dirt. removing the injector and using compressed air while actuating the injector works better than any snake oil solution. but to really answer the question, cleaning a clogged injector that has less than prime flow will worsen mileage because the car can use more fuel. cleaning a leaky injector will improve mileage because its not dripping fuel.

what you are experiencing sounds like the weight shifting to the back of the car when you are on the throttle.... there are a few ways of attacking that if its the case. one is having the rear sit higher than the front. another option is to put better tires up front, or just open them up more with tread knife or grinder.

also, this is why turbochargers are made with the compressor side typically bigger than the turbine side. but, nobody really bothers with sequential turbo setups these days. most setups are parallel, where all the turbos run at once. cummins diesel guys have made 1200hp and 2500ft lbs with parallel setups... very rarely sequential.

i use toe plates. i made them from 4 bucks of 14ga sheet metal. its 2 1'x2' sheets, with slits cut to hold on to two tape measures.i made them based from these: http://www.amazon.com/Longacre-Toe-Plates-Includes-Tapes/dp/B000VAOHB2 and how to use them: http://www.longacreracing.com/instructions/inst.asp?INSTID=23 racers have been using this method for decades. when i say i set mine to 1/16" toe in, that means the front of my tires are 1/16" closer than the rear. there is a calculation that exists for inches to degrees of toe, but i dont remember it, i havent used it in a while. all you have to do when aligning, is make sure your wheel is straight when doing the procedure, and doesnt move. use vicegrips on the steering column to keep it from moving if needed. then use your eyeballs to tell which side to adjust to get your 1/16" toe in. it takes a bit of practice, but with an eye for perfection, this can be done just fine. ive used this method on race winning spec miatas, and commercial dump trucks alike. just make sure the wheel stays straight, you will end up with a straight driving car. .