maozebong

PM'd.

i know what will break on it first... the clock also, kill it before they make more. there is no reason anymore automatic ea82's need to exist.

hey scott, id like to possibly do some 6 lug hubs.... but the hubs are on my daily that i would give you to machine. is there any way we can maybe work something out? im located in seattle. thanks.

i have my rig toed in a 1/16", and could probably use a tiny bit extra... but i wouldnt go over an 1/8"unless my steering link angles are extra steep, like from not dropping the x-member down 1" in a 2" lift.

i supplemented my drivers seat butt section with extra foam from a lazyboy. it made the seat 5x more plush, and now i truly love driving in it. wiring a wideband o2 sensor to the ecu in place of the stock o2 is a great mileage mod. i noticed nearly 5mpg difference over the stock unheated narrowband. the wideband gauge also helps you to see if you are wasting fuel and a bit too heavy into the throttle. also, i might add that i moved all my mechanics tools and toolbox, along with other essentials for moving somewhere, guaranteed well over 1000lbs... and still got 23mpg WITH 215/75/15s. i dont know about you guys, but that is pretty decent mileage.

i drove my EA82 a total of 8k miles this year on road trips... one across the country, moving from ohio to seattle. one from ohio to NH. last one was all over the southeast. i also have a 2" lift and 215/75/15s, so it can totally be done with a lift and oversized tires, and fully loaded down. i have driven it though some steep passes in the rockies, cascades, and the Appalachians (in NY/PA/VA/WV/NC/TN). i wouldnt recommend doing what i did though if your car isnt healthy... but mine is, and has a few mods to boot.

alternator. in my opinion, the oem alternator is the most unreliable piece of ************ that has gone into these cars other than the clock. in my kit, i have: 6' fuel line spare upper and lower radiator hoses timing belts and timing pullies (idler and tensioners.) spare v-belts coolant rotella 10w30. axle grease extra front and rear axle. tool kit to do anything on the car, 2 breaker bars. wiring kit/soldering iron hi-lift jack tow straps fuel pump alternator jackstands. LOTS OF ZIP TIES. large ones with tensile ratings over 150 lbs are especially useful. small halfy camping pad and tarp. they fit nearly anywhere when folded up, like under the rear seat, if you still have it. i was extremely grateful for it when i was replacing an axle on a hot windy beach. i used the tarp for wind/sun/sand shelter, and laid on the pad instead of hot rump roast sand. ever since then, it was part of my kit. you should add: preset tie rods, a left and a right. that way you can just bolt them straight in, and not worry about alignment if you jank it up. radius rods. consider fabricating your spares nice and thick, as well as the ones on the car. a single hub. if you have a spare tire carrier, you could modify it and weld an axle spline to the carrier in such a way that it holds a spare hub/conewasher/axlenut. a big jug of water for yourself. it's hot out there. run a little bit of tubing from a 5 gallon jug to a camelbak bite valve, hanging within reach. you will thank me later. confine all your spare parts and tools to a pack no bigger than 3 milk crates full, with exception to axles and tires. whatever you choose to carry this tool kit, make sure its all secured down. no need to have things flying around and breaking ************. if its going to be a dedicated rig, just bolt some crates to the floor, or rig up a cargo net.

nah, that isnt me. its way too clean and has a roof rack. mine is a rotten ohio body, and has a big sticker on the window saying "swag like ohio" also has a pair of truck nuts and a straight pipe exhaust, so its kinda loud.

storm trooper: rusty ohio body 2" lift spfi EA82 ported heads MSD SCI/blaster SS 2" straight pipe. wideband o2 wired to ecu, avg 23mpg loaded, 30-32 unloaded. f-stone destination AT 215/75/15.

i dont leave much in my car, but a 1/4 socket set, a pair of channel locks, and a multi-bit screwdriver set. i used to leave tools in my car, but i came from a considerably worse area (dayton, ohio) and i have gotten used to not leaving anything i dont want stolen at home. with any luck, they catch the jerk stealing tools and subaru's. do you guys have any cheap anti-theft tricks for your EA82's? whenever i used to leave my car at river drop in points when i would go kayak, i used to pocket the fusible links... but id rather do something more discreet, like a toggle switch to kill the ecu power, or maybe put the switch inline on the power for the fusibles.

just get a junkyard turbo, cut and weld flanges to fit. DSM's have a decent sized small turbo for a quick spool. you could always take a HX35 off a cummins if you can find one

hey guys, i just moved to the area. if you see a white lifted wagon tooling around north seattle/u-dist/caphill with ohio plates, thats me. if you see me, ************ it, honk at me. if anyone in the area needs help with their soobies, let me know. ASE certified, ex-racing team crew chief, lots of tools and experience. i do on-site repairs and everything. i actually really could use the extra money so if anyone needs any work on anything, let me know. call me a cheapass, but i just got ohio tags. my ************ is still perfectly fine, registered for the next couple months in ohio. ill switch it eventually.

thanks everyone. once i get a new rack in this car, i will post pictures of what i have been living with for the past year or more. its pretty frightening... and im going to keep driving on it for a little while longer good old wagon sure can take some abuse.

pcv reroute kit. you need a foot of pcv hose and some different sized t-fittings.

as an update for you guys, i drove it to washington from ohio without much of a problem other than adding 1/2 a quart of oil, and 1/2 a qt of ATF in the power steering. turns out, the pump just makes noise when it is cold out. once the car got above 40 degrees in good old king county, it quit making noise. i will replace the pump and rack when one of the tie rods or rod ends starts wearing out. i even made it though all the mountain passes in the rockies and cascades without a problem, even if it might only be at 55mph in 3rd gear i averaged 25mpg, fully loaded down with all my ************ for a cross country move. i drove in everything from dry pavement, to 2" of snowpack, to black ice. my subaru got me across the country safely, efficiently, and through some seriously ************ty weather.

not to criticise you on this or anything, but i always just keep mine in the trunk. the accidents that happen with hi-lifts almost always result from the mechanism getting stuck, or user ignorance. keeping it oiled and clean can avoid problems, maybe find a cover to put over yours?

hm, ill have to consider this. i do have beefy arms, but im also still a lazy pothead who likes to use a suicide knob on the steering wheel. decisions, decisions. also, update: replaced o rings on crossmember lines and the flex lines from the pump to the crossmember. noise on cold start is gone from the pump. rack still leaks, and can continue to not be a priority to me

ok, update... got the other plate out and the original back in. the teeth were sucked all the way down, and when removed, the original one was shorter and had a different ID of the teeth. in the end, it made a difference of about at least a 5/8" on the clutch cable, from nearly bottomed out adjustment, to a perfectly acceptable range on the cable. so, lesson learned. drink less while working late. you miss little things that have you doing a clutch on xmas.

so i just installed a clutch on my loyale, and it doesnt feel right. the clutch disk is right, but i think the PP is wrong. the clutch cable is nearly bottomed out, and when i push on the clutch, it only has a short bit of travel and then feels like it hits a wall, and im just stretching the clutch cable. it also slips when cold, but grabs when warm. it bolted up to the flywheel just fine, so it has to be an EA PP, but i think the installed height of the teeth might have something to do with it. im tearing it out right now in my garage, pics soon... btw the clutch was a brute power 4wd kit from rock auto. i bought it because the disk has more dampening springs than the other kits. so, USMB, spill post what you know and pics if you have them on EA pressure plate differences. maybe they gave me an EA81 PP.

i think im just going to go measure with a piece of string for an emergency belt. it sounds like the best (cheap) solution for now. on a side note, has anyone ever done trail riding without power steering? it seems like it would be too much strain for a several hour trip, or at least the trips i go on.

i might be able to get those made at the local hydraulic shop. has anyone ever ran flexible hydraulic lines from the pump, straight to the rack, instead of pump>crossmember>rack? i can get about any size and type of hydraulic fitting made on a flexible hose. im going to take the lines off and start working on it tomorrow, and take the lines to the shop.

not bad. one day ill join you guys...

ahh post a video of this water skimming action!

^^ yup, thats the exact one i have. i learned, with can drinks, to face rearward. if you shift nicely, there are far less rearward (accel) g-forces than there is forward (braking) or side (cornering). facing the mouth hole of a can towards the back of the car works well for keeping spills at bay.

holy ************, no kidding. that is an awesome center console. i however have one of those door pocket cupholders screwed to the door cards on each side. $5. only thing that sucks is leaving drinks in the car, you cant slam the door with loose fitting drinks, and if you are a bigger person who requires more room for your legs, it encroaches a bit. fine for me, 5'11" 175lb male, no problem at all.