maozebong

you can use NA/NB miata shocks and coilovers in the rear, chop them fronts. /if you have an ea82.

well, thanks for your opinions, guys. im pretty confident my car will make it just fine. i just wanted some opinions on it from some other EA guys. after all, everything else on this car has been replaced but the power steering system and transmission and interior. she runs great. i guess it could go a whole bunch of ways really from replacing everything to replacing nothing and using stop leak... which is what i think i might do, if i cant get lines and such in time. thanks for the advice again. tomrhere, you have a pm.

i already get 30+ mpg h-way on 27's. no need for stock wheels. ported heads and a wideband o2 controller wired to the stock ecu, and special low rolling resistance grease in the wheel bearings, and special axles, among other things. it will probably be a bit less on the trip because of extra weight, but nothing that im worried about. again, anyone know the size of the hard lines on the crossmember? or possibly the year/model the manual racks came in? edit: i have a 91 loyale. also, its not the seal, it is the actual toothed rod that the tie rods thread into. it is cavitated very badly and would leak regardless of the seal's quality, whenever the car is pointed slightly to the right. it has to go, plain and simple. i just want to get the car across the country to washington, and then i dont care, ill get brand new everything once i have a job again.

thats what i was thinking. the only noise the pump makes is the noise that air makes when it is in hydraulics. i assume its coming from some seriously leaky hard lines on the rack. the rack is definitely bad, the rod that the inner tie rods screw in to is cavitated... it has pits that are an 1/8" deep, from torn boots and ohio salt. it has been limped along fine, but i had to poke a small hole in the rack boot to allow fluid to drain, otherwise it builds up and pops the boot off the rack. i have looped many steering rack lines before, on my own and customer cars, i know its more difficult than a manual rack... and i still want power steering, the car is lifted on 27" tires, and i dont want to muscle it while offroad. grossgary (or anyone else), do you know the diameter of the rack hard lines, so i can make them, or get a pre-flared length?

so, i have an issue at my hands. my power steering is basically done. rack, lines, and maybe the pump too. the steering rack on the drivers side is cavitated and needs to be replaced, resealing is out of question. the hard lines and soft lines are done. hard lines are cracked, does anyone know the diameter and length of these (local parts shop has pre-flared lengths, id ideally like to get those, and not flare them myself if anyone knows the length. the pump is making a light whining noise, i assume from air in the lines. its become louder now that it is more cold. it also leaks a bit, but nothing insane. third dilema: im moving on christmas to seattle from ohio... i dont want to buy a pump or a rack new when i will be able to get a good used one locally in two weeks, but i also dont want to be on the side of I90 trying to fix my car. guys! should i just replace lines and see how it goes, or what? just get a shorter belt now?

of course, i always appreciate using someone's tools, and within the month, i should make enough to own my own... i used to have a full mechanic and mildly acceptable fab shop at my disposal in ohio. i have used both plasma cutter and mig/flux core. if you have a welder capable of using sheilding gas, ill get a tank. also dont care about buying rolls of wire, depending on how much i bother you. here is a picture of a cage i built last year (a pre-bent kit the customer wanted), to prove i know what i am doing: i move to shoreline a few days before new years. once i get established, ill be getting the rest of the useful ************ like tubing notchers, benders, and so on. magic will be made.

who said anything about shipping? i am actually moving to shoreline, so i was more planning in the future. i can weld too, and make tube bumpers and skid plates... but i have none of the tooling, welders, etc. all i have is regular mechanic tools, nothing for fab work. im just willing to pay someone if they do better work than me.

make me a nice front bumper/skid plate and maybe we can come to some sort of arrangement. message me.

ill be looking to join you guys in a few months. im moving from ohio to seattle after christmas. i dont need a lift, just some people to 4wheel with. i do need a DR trans (3.9:1) though, so if any of you fellas have one you want to come off of, that would be appreciated. i havent been able to find one in ohio or any surrounding states, old subarus are nonexistant in the rust belt.

yeah, basically every non-oem thermostat has problems. ive had 3 of them, each one caused issues. one of them would block off flow until the temp gauge got to 1/2 and then "pop" open. others tended to get stuck open easily. i have the over-cooling issue during winter too. i dont know if ill bother removing the clutch fan, but the old cardboard in front of the radiator is as old as liquid cooled engines. there is nothing wrong with that trick, especially with how little it costs, and how long you need the trick to last. ill probably be sliding one in front of my condenser here today or tomorrow.

^^ what he said. many off-roaders typically disable abs/traction control before hitting the trails. also, ************ing christ, this is a 6 year old thread!

you could cut the sending unit mount off your old tank, and reuse it, to keep the wiring end of it simple, because the sending unit's resistance is already perfect for your gauge. only thing you might have to do is make a longer rod for the float, and customize it till it accurately reflects how much fuel is in it. then, copy the fuel pickup and return, and you are set. there are tons of fuel cell building supplies out there. also, race cars these days use fuel cell foam in the cells to curb weight transfer. it could be the cheap and quick way to baffle your cell proper.

make yourself a fuel cell.... shouldnt be a huge stretch from what you did to the back of your wagon you could baffle it better than our tanks came from the factory too.

dude, so really, what is so bad about removing an axle for running a welded diff? instead, you have to change a drum when you want it. seriously, changing a drum instead of tapping out two shear pins. doesnt make sense to me, and also exposing the rear bearings to dirt every time you remove it. to make this work, your drum will need to have bearings of its own like a trailer drum, aside from the bearings on the stub. and anyways, just get a lift and bigger tires and ************ing forget about trying this. bigger tires will give you more off road capabilites than a welded rear diff at stock height. learn some off road driving tricks like airing down and ebrake use and you will be fine.

yeah you don't need anything beefier if you arent going to increase the power. i wouldnt mind a better friction material, but id keep the same pressure plate. unfortunately, to my knowledge there isnt anything else other than the average sprung organic clutch disk. if your flywheel still has the proper step in it and isnt scorched/cracked, just hit it with some scotch brite pads, or a wire brush wheel on a drill. no need to even waste the time driving to the machinist.

what about a similar shaped piece of plastic, or even the original tab, but drill a hole thru it and put a standard body tab in it??

yeah, these heads have tons of room to improve. i, myself, by just cleaning up the HLA bump, the ridge by the valve seats, and rounding the short turn radius out a bit, and like quidam said, getting into the exhaust bowl a tiny bit. i got a few MPG increase (3-5mpg) and a significant HP and torque increase. has anyone tried that trick of putting a groove on the flat part of the combustion chamber like they do on V-block heads? its supposed to guide the air/fuel mix to the spark plug for more complete ignition.

the ignitors dont typically go bad... ecu's on the other hand can fail from the ************ty ea82 alternator diode packs going out nd putting out AC voltage. check to see that the black wire on the crank sensor is putting out voltage, its common for them to burn out and not send voltage to the crank sensor in the distributor.

^^^ that.... because tires will make a world of difference with traction. if you are still stock height and stock wheels, use a razorblade to open up the tread a bit (cut blocks out of the tread). with a 2 inch lift, you should be able to get the axle off by just getting the tire off the ground.

thanks, everyone. i wouldnt be surprised to see if any of you guys with even more insane builds than i make it into the readers rides section. after all, all i have is the tried n true 2" lift, and toyota steelies with some 27" truck tires. i bet many of you could submit your cars and get in just as easily. my favorite part that they actually ran in it, was under "other parts: cassette tape adapter"

my manager at the last shop i worked at when i still lived in ohio entered me for the reader's rides section. apparently they liked it enough to feature it next to someone's cummins powered truck with easily 10k into making it trail worthy. i think i might have 2k into mine, including price of the vehicle. i also realize, i have one of the least modified soob's on the site, and i got their attention... so, fellas, go and enter yours in, lets get these subaru's the attention they deserve. i think the most expensive part is my "wizard dusted CV's" which i got REM'd for an unbelievable deal, and the cages properly clearanced (bearing cages on our cvs are almost always machined too tight, leading to premature wear. taking a dremel to the cages so that each ball will slide right through the holes leads to longevity even in ************ty aftermarket axles. also, the races are micropolished before REM treatment, then packed with almagard 3752. they stay noise and vibration free for years, and as long as you aren't turning massive tires (31" and over) or running more power than an ea82, they last longer than any axle i have tried, and i also daily drive this car, so axles tend to not last as long with lots of miles put on them.

yeah, i always keep at least one spare cv, a fuel pump and an alternator. not as worried about the starter, because i can typically roll start the car, unless offroad. i think subaru designed the trunk space to be packed with spare ************ and tools. you should check the ignition timing, see how far it might be off if the car is pinging.

pulling a rear axle is easy though... i can get mine off without removing the wheel.

since my car came without the scissor jack, i have that big hole next to the washer pump... and its packed with every diameter hose that a subaru needs from 3/16" vacuum line to 5/8" pcv hose. i leave hoses, hose clamps, and zip ties in that nook, and tow straps and ratchet straps in the opposite side. never hurts to have it in the car, and if anyone ever makes fun of how much hose you keep in the back of the wagon, just remember that when their coolant hoses pop on the side of the road, and laugh twice as hard at them.