maozebong

agreed. block the tires of the honda, approach at a slight angle to get one tire on it first so you dont bottom out the front bumper on it... or just get a running start, use momentum to climb... nice bumper/skid plate though.

what did you bend that with?? the bends look like it was done with a vice O_O

im with GD. there isnt much you can do to make more power on the intake. porting the heads is not something a noob can accomplish, nor would i trust to do... but head porting is where all the gains are, and i mean ALL. a custom free flowing 2-2.25" exhaust with a proper merge between the two pipes, and the primary cat relocated or deleted makes minimal, but more noticable gains than any intake pipe. cams come in at a close second for gains. the whole reason the EA82 sucks so much is because of the siamesed ports... notice how the early ej's are fairly similar bottom ends... but with different heads. makes 40HP more. get the idea?

so, just recently, i checked an experimental axle, in which the ball bearing cages were dremeled out to fit the CV joint balls more loosely than stock. it has worked beautifully... but that is not the point. Almagard 3752 is by far the best CV grease i have ever used. my cv axle boot broke 3 months ago, and even after putting over 10k miles on a axle with a torn boot, there is still a healthy coat of grease on everything, and more than enough grease still in the cup. almagard doesnt sling out like the rest, and leaves a coating on the axles innards that doesnt wipe off. literally, this grease needs a solvent to be fully removed. it even made less of a mess in the wheel well. even on disassembly, the axle has noticeably less wear than i have ever seen on an axle that has been driven +10k miles with a torn boot. not even kidding, as soon as i get money, im ordering a case of this ************.

that is some pretty impressive tube work. is there an in car cage as well as the under car bars?

i went on a trip last year and this year on the east coast from ohio to cape hatteras, NC to nashville TN and then back to ohio. i recently rebuilt the heads on mine. did a fresh valve cut and i ported the ports on both heads and got a free flowing 2" exhaust... and i noticed, that i was able to tear up the hills effortlessly, albeit in 3rd gear. the previous year without porting the heads or new exhaust, the car wouldnt be able to go any bit faster than 45. moral of the story, port your heads, and get an exhaust. also, probably would help my story that i have 235/75/15's on the car, which makes it a hell of a lot harder to go up mountains than stock 13s.

seriously awesome work you have been doing. very very clean work. i can't wait to see the finished product!

the oem gasket has a metal reinforced deal. im not a fan of those either... ill take a cardboard gasket or oem directly on the flange.

i had a pin fall out on me at some point between driving 2k miles and then another 15 miles on sand @ cape hatteras, and it chewed up a brand new inner cv boot... but i was also going 25mph on sand, which is a hell of a lot more work than pavement on the suspension and cv axle. id like to think you will be fine. hell, i used a long 10 mm bolt i had in the trunk, hammered it in the roll pin hole, and then just to be double sure, zip tied it in place. you can get creative with what you use, but i wouldnt recommend going far or offroad without one.

why not look into a universal EMS. you are most certainly competent enough to run the universal wiring set, configure the various sensors to the EMS, and it could be reconfigured to every engine setup you would ever want to run, even if you changed to 6 or 8 cyl.

yeah, i agree. you sound like you should be making more power with your current setup with proper engine management... and you also sound like you are having serious detonation issues. ive seen much more power put out of those motors than 300hp and when they failed, it was never pistons breaking or burning up, maybe a loss in ring seal, but never breakage. maybe a real dyno tune on an AEM standalone, meth/water injection kit, and a redundant fuel pump for the nitrous on a wet 100 shot (fuel and nos), and possibly an intercooler if you dont have one already. the best part about real engine management is that the nitrous and fuel and meth/water sprayer solenoids can all be controlled by the ecu, and safeguards can be put in place to curb detonation via knock sensors and AFR monitoring.

another common mistake is forgetting to reset the pitch stopper when installing the lift. it preloads the engine at a tilt, and it causes the front end to lift alot on acceleration. i forgot to do this, and it caused me to pop boots very frequently for a few months. another tip i have, is to use a very special grease recommended by a racing axle manufacturer. its called almagard 3752, its a super tacky grease that slings 10X less than the average CV grease, so it even makes less of a mess when the boots end up failing. when rebuilding the axle, to use a dremel tool and slightly open up the ball bearing cages and make it so that the ball just barely slides in without any resistance. he said that the axle manufacturers tend to machine the cages too right, and they cause interference with the ball bearings and damage them, especially with thesubpar grease that reman axle companies use. clearancing the cages makes the joint feel much more loose than brand new, and the joints flop down to the side when you hold the axle horizontally. i stand by that technique and i do it to every axle i have. its made the same 3 empi axles that i have had in rotation for the past 45k look still brand new inside the joint, every time i put a new boot on it. they never vibrate or click, the only reason i still have to rebuild them from time to time is because i buy cheap rump roast boots, and they tear easy. EDIT: holy old @ss thread. 85 wagon, btw, the inside wear on the tire tread im willing to bet is the rear wheels being toed out. many shops i took my car to align it at never did the procedure so i threw a fit every time because i paid for a 4 wheel alignment and there is in fact a toe adjustment on the rear.

^^^ right there. resistor pack is for the intermediate speeds, not full speed, or "4" on our vehicles. i would say there is something unplugged or a blown fuse/fusible link, et cetera. use a test light and see if your blower motor is even getting power before yanking any resistor packs or repairing anything.

damn, that is a bad day. hopefully its not going to be an expensive fix. edit: nothing on a L series subaru costs that much to fix i guess hopefully its a quick fix.

yes. mcbrat has a diagram on how you wire it, but its really simple. i have one in my vehicle as well. basically, you connect the factory coil wires to the red and white small gauge wires, and the orange and black wires to the coil. supply the unit with power and ground and you are done.

also, blower mode and 4wd are both vacuum actuated, unless you have a lever for 4wd in the car.

leave them unplugged, they are for setting ignition timing and test mode and such.

from what it sounds like, your fuel isnt getting atomized properly. it shouldnt be puddling on the lower half of the cylinder. maybe your injector spray pattern isnt that healthy. i would check that while its out.

subidude, if you haven't already, id recommend downloading the factory service manual. its a bit hard to find anything in it because FHI doesnt apparently hire editors with skills in english... but it DOES have almost everything you need in it. everything not included in the FSM is in our reference section "ultimate subaru repair manual" i almost bought a manual for my 91 loyale till i found this site.

0_0 broke a hole?? pics right now!

get the pcv reroute kit to cure the oil smoke on right turns. its 2 plastic tee fittings and a plug that replace the t and the elbow on the airbox. and buy a subaru pcv valve. aftermarket never solves the problem, maybe makes it worse. don't delete the valve. period. the pcv valve allows vacuum to be pulled on the crankcase, slightly aiding ring seal.

i would call kennedy. chances are, they know the most about their own product....

replacing all the rubber hoses at each wheel helps immensely, especially if they are all original hoses. i have also found out that having the clutch pedal in helped get mine more firm. but yeah, they are still softer than one would expect.

just put it inline on the coil wires... one connects to coil neg and the other to coil positive. i think the coil negative might be the signal?? not 100%, but if you hook it up backwards nothing will go bad. also, obviously, disconnect the stock wires from the stock coil and then put the orange and black wires from the MSD box that are for the coil, on the coil. the red and white wires will be connected to the stock coil wires.

looks like a pretty great trip out there. are there lots of deposits of cool minerals out there? i wouldn't know, ive never been out there, and ohio doesnt have anything like that.