maozebong

i will also vouch for sealed bearings, especially if you will be tooling around in the mud. axle changes always present an opportunity for grease to get contaminated with dirt as well, so seals help to curb that. after you are done with the bearings, check to see that there is no excessive wheel play. sometimes a tired cone washer can cause wheel play even though you might have brand new bearings in the knuckle.

without the k&n apollo filter (which might i add is the nicest looking airbox for a cone filter ive seen) the whole setup would have been nothing.... combined with 3" pvc instead of steel piping, and you should be able to do one of these for 50 bucks max. i personally would have used the stock airbox, as its not really a restriction. also, being that i am from the midwest, we rust proof everything, and i would much rather have a plastic intake snorkel than steel for obvious reasons. that's a pretty clean setup, any engine bay pics?

ohmahgawd this is amazing. i sure wanna start making one.

ive seen a universal spool, works with every open diff in existance, and it flows out of the tip of my lincoln mig welder. just sayin. the welder costs quite a bit, but the feed wire and gas it takes to weld a diff costs less than 10$.

alot of the top portwork guys in the nation are doing this, and with great results:

those are some AWESOME pics. thanks for adding!

yeah, at that point i would probably take a pile of salt over those guys. check the plugs to see what they look like. a black plug will indicate too much fuel, a white plug means too lean. thick caked buildup means burning oil, and a wet plug means its not firing. you can read plugs even farther into it, but those are the basics.

yeah, i have been using the non sharp side of a drill bit for 3 years now, never had one break, its made of hardened steel, and its the same diameter as the hole in the axle, so it will never fit inside the roll pin. find the right diameter one you need (i forget mine, it was a junk bit i found at work) and use it, if it is still a good one, then use it and buy yourself a new bit to replace it, so at least you have a sharp bit to drill with.

FIRST OFF, I'D LIKE TO SAY, FOREVER IN USMB HISTORY, I POPPED THE CHERRY ON THIS SECTION!! :clap: secondly, went and dug up tycho's (member here) pictures of his ported ea82 heads, just so it would be added to this section. head porting is by far the cheapest bang for your buck to get some decent extra horsepower. all it takes is some sander rolls, maybe an aluminum grinding burr or two of different shapes from mcmaster.com, and a variable speed die grinder, or pneumatic grinder, but not everyone has a compressor that can run one. if you have never done it before, buy a junk warped or cracked head to practice on. then, go read everything you can on it. techniques are the same across the board, you just need to apply it to whichever engine you are working on. http://web.me.com/dgiessel/Pictures/misc/ea82t/index.html here as well is a cutaway, showing you roughly how much you have to work with when porting these heads. the pictures are ER27 ports, but as we all know, they are nearly identical to an EA82. a few links on the topic: http://65corvette.nonethewiser.net/technical/diyport.pdf http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/head-porting.html http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/head-porting2.html so if anyone wants to add to this, or ask questions, ill try and answer the questions to the best of my abilities.

the 2 bolt flanges are easily had, and i had an exhaust shop make me a complete 2" exhaust, with the cat moved out of the Y-section, where it robs power and roasts the passenger cv axle boot as well. 300, out the door, including labor, parts, et cetera. and that is a COMPLETE exhaust, from the flange at the head to the 3" chrome tip the guys at the shop gave me for free because they loved my lifted soob.

i had mine dyno'd last year on a mustang dyno, because it was a free opportunity. 2nd gear pulls, (so torque is a tad overinflated, but thats still the actual output when in second gear) 77whp @ 5k 282wtq @3k that was before i rebuilt it, lifted, 28" tires, custom 2" exhaust, etc. i could swear that its tons faster than when in full stock form.

its not as raspy as it sounds on camera, in person. i think that was because how close i placed the camera to the tailpipe. in the car it sounds devine

that's mine, it has the cat deleted and a new y-pipe, 2" all the way back, thrush turbo muffler.

^^^^ exactly this. every part listed has details to it, and if you pay attention to them you get the right stuff every time. the only problem i have ever had was a left tie rod end packaged in a right tie rod end box. they sent me the right one for free and let me keep the extra left. and really, nobody is doing anything that extreme with these that they need fancy compound brakes, i usually get cheapos. if you get something fancy, report back on how awesome it might or might not be.

i used to have the same clunk, it would actually clunk around corners like a cv, but once i jacked the car up, the wheel bearing had a ton of play. you can check by grabbing at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, and shake the wheel back and forth. also, at low speed it would clunk like a tie rod when i shake the steering wheel side to side.

i have never had a problem with rock auto. ever. also, i have yet to have a problem with cheap pads. i typically buy the 7$ a set raybestos quiet stop pads. raybestos is a pretty reputable friction compound company. ive never bothered to buy any expensive pads because the 7$ pads stop it just fine. as far as rear brakes are concerned, every set of brake drum shoes ive gotten look exactly the same, even with the FHI stamp on them and usually a tokico stamp as well, even though they arent in a tokico box.

yeah, no kidding. it was nearly 90 a few weeks ago, it was 60 today. depending on when i do my oil change (typically twice a year) i go with either rotella t5 10w30 for summer, or mobil 1 5w30 for winter. i like the rotella 10w30 for summer. it really does well on extended trips where oil temps get extra hot and you get low pressure at idle because of it. during winter, my lifters make a ruckus on a cold start without 5w30.

yeah, i did the same thing too. stripped down my whole drivers door harness, rebuilt and cleaned the master window switch, and all that.... but oddly enough, during my search, i only found 2 threads mentioning the crimp. resoldering both the power (red wires) and ground (black) crimps under the carpet does worlds for how well my windows worked. i totally agree, this should be added to the USRM. it never hurts to have more information in there, it only hurts to have a lack thereof.

for a rule of thumb, 10psi per 1k rpm. also, that's how you judge what oil weight to use. if 10w30 doesnt give you proper oil pressure because you live in a warm climate, step up to 10w40. if you live in a cold area, get 5w30 or 0w30, because the "w" number is the oil's weight at 0*, so you want something that can be as close to 10psi per 1000 rpm at all temperatures.

that's where i suspected first, honestly. but that's not by any means manufacturer specific. any car with 20+ years of opening and closing the drivers door on a daily basis is going to have that issue.

so, if anyone here is suffering from lack of windows in their dl/gl/loyale like i was today, i have a tidbit of information for the next guy who uses the search feature. today, i had no drivers window at all after coming back from lunch. after cleaning the contacts and checking everything out, i found nothing. further into tracing wires for 5 hours, i found the splices for the window power and ground. under the carper right below where the front passenger would put their feet is a crimp splice. by cutting and resoldiering the connection, it fixed my slow and intermittently functioning (from the master window switch panel) passenger window, and my extremely slow rear windows. (so slow i had to help them up!) i know, most of the time, people post their woes on the tech boards, but today i post my success and share the knowledge for the next poor bastard to lose his windows out of nowhere because of a little rotted splice.

well, if you ditched the fuel injection for a carb, and had the cams made, it should work fine. the fact that it's wasted spark makes it all possible. efi would be either expensive or you depending on the impedance of the the ej injectors, you would have to splice 1 and 2 to fire together. (same with 3 and 4) if they are high impedance injectors (usually 10-14 ohms) you can easily do this. splicing means two injectors have to run off one injector driver in the ecu. two lower impedance injectors that equal out the normal impedance wouldnt fry the driver, or not operate properly, with too much impedance. either that or you drop $1k on a REAL standalone ecu, not MS. carburetion is the easy way out, and the cheap way. considering the fact that all big bang motors ive ever seen were in racing, where longevity isn't a concern, i wouldnt spend much on this without a pile of ej parts in my shed.

there is even one on the same page -_____-

get a flapper or a turndown angled horizontally so you don't get water in your exhaust already! otherwise, nice work.

************ yeah! your builds never cease to amaze, always top notch work, and that's coming from someone who builds purpose built spec miata's for a living. any other details you care to spill about that fozzy??