maozebong

that's what i'm saying. forget worrying about fuel timing and advance until you can get ignition timing figured out. carburation works j

you would probably need 1 and 4 to fire simultaneously, along with 2 and 3. engine bearings are probably going to see quite a bit of additional wear. its not unheard of, the valve timing would be the trickiest part. firing 2 injectors simultaneously would possibly require (if the injectors are low impedance) to remove the resistors if equipped with them or, (if they are high impedance) to replace with two low impedance injectors that would add up to a similar resistance of one high impedance. otherwise your injector drivers in the ecu would burn up real quick... or just put a weber on it and simplify your fueling needs you would also need a coil on plug or dual coil setup. 99 miata has dual coils that look like they wouldnt be too hard to wire up. id be interested to see how this turns out...

sweet jesus that is one swanky setup. one day ill do a buggy build.. one day.

post up pix of the finished product!

back on topic of projectors into gl/loyale buckets..... turbone, do you have any more pictures of the fitment of the projector into the back of the housing?

x2 on this! pretty clean (and rare!) GLF. hell, my 91 has 5x the rot that has mine's so rotted, before i welded the holes up, it would pour water in the rear wheel wells, flow down to the floor boards and out of the hole at the base of the B pillar. the way i see it, it looks pretty good

i went and checked it out today, yes it does hang about 1"lower than the passenger side pipe, but its not as bad as it looks on camera. i can fix that myself, and intend to do so one of these days. i also intend to fix the fact that it doesn't run down the center of the car tucked up next to the driveshaft, which i dont forsee being too difficult. but none the less, thanks for pointing it out! yeah ill be taking care of that myself here one day. as it stands they could have raped my brains out on the price of that exhaust, because it took 5 hours for them to make. they only charged me for 3 hours, didn't charge for materials, and threw in the chrome 3" tip. not too shabby. im mostly just glad to get the cat away from that new passenger axle. im so tired of rebooting that axle because of all the heat on it from that cat.

DEQ? like, inspection/e-check deal? no, we don't have that in ohio. i got the Y-pipe redone because i wanted to get that extra heat away from the axle boot, and as of now, has no cat. ill be installing one later, i just didnt have it on hand. i never noticed it hung that low, but it might be an illusion, where i was parked was a slight hill. my only other gripe was that they hung the middle section off to the drivers side and not in the tunnel where the stock pipe normally sits. i can't complain too much i suppose, and i know i can fix it with a little cut and hack and tack. i just needed my friends shop to bend the tubing for the y-pipe, mostly. oh the things id do with a tubing bender

i just got my exhaust redone today because the midwest got to it and rotted it apart. the y-pipe still has the same diameter, but after that, its 2" all the way back. also, the cat is deleted so it doesn't keep cooking my axle boots. has a thrush turbo muffler and the guys at the shop gave me a free 3" chrome tip

it actually says "royale with cheese" a poke at the pulp fiction quote/metric system. i was drinking one day when camping out of it and decided to paint it on with white touch up paint i found at work. definitely get laughs out of it here and there.

that safety bead is on the trailer tire wheels i see as well as regular steel wheels. i still see no difference. maybe its just the ones that ive seen, but they all have that now. most 6 lug wheels are 6x140, its just the center bore that is smaller or larger. one way to defeat this whole ordeal is to have the centering nubs on the hubs machined flat, but if you go that far why not get the hubs redrilled as well. but, in any case, here's my redrilled yota wheels, painted rustoleum gunmetal hammered finish. came out beautiful, but you cant tell that well under the dirt.

i personally have never seen a difference between my 15" redrilled yota wheels and trailer wheels, bead-wise. they both have the exact same lip shape. ive never heard of this difference in beads. i work at a small shop and i mount about 15-20 tires a week, between trailer, truck, and lightweight alloy wheels.

this^ epoxy sealing for the ecu would be the best bet, and you could get it out of the ammo box, being that the whole board is ideally completely sealed. pack some epoxy in the back of the connector for a little extra waterproofing, and dielectric grease in the front side of the connector. undercoating or liquid electrical tape for the backside of the connector would work pretty well too.

get one that is epoxy filled. the oil filled ones leak and aren't intended to be mounted sideways, so the stock mount can't be used... the MSD hi-vibration blaster coils are 10$ more, so why not?

another after the fact update. ive been running really lean lately due to a worn out fuel pump/vacuum leaks, and the MSD setup + .055 gapped plugs has brought out a bunch more power that i don't think its ever really had. the engine climbs through the rpms much smoother than before as well. the low-rpm area where the engine typically stumbles seems a bit more tolerant too, like the 2-3k rpm area. im sure if i could get it to deliver some more fuel, id have even more power.

noice! looks like it was fun. something about dragging things with your own subaru seems so gratifying. the landscaping company i work for gets ************ stuck in mud pretty frequently, so rather than totally destroy turn with a tractor, the subaru with bald street tires keeps the turf *fairly* intact.

if the wheel has radial runout, and you can clearly see the extra play in the wheel isnt from tie rods or ball joints.

x2. get a lil flapper valve like you see on tractors. rain will collect in the exhaust otherwise.

Follow up: i think i found out the issue of the missing coolant and froth on the oil cap... i pulled the plugs to check them out today, aside from being a very lean white color, possibly from the loud whiny fuel pump that probably needs to be replaced, i noticed on the left 2 cylinders, that the piston was cleanish (i could see aluminum) so, id have to say that its leaking water/coolant... so, correct me if im wrong here, this is my logic for coolant leaking in the combustion chamber... if it was all 4, the throttle body preheat could be leaking, if it was just 2, it could be an IM gasket with a *slight* chance of a HG, and if it was a single cylinder, it would more than likely be a HG. im going to order some head gaskets and start tearing into it. if i get down to the IM, find that they were leaking, ill stop there. if not, keep going deeper, i suppose. i almost want it to be a head gasket so i can port the heads

and it lives! it starts up effortlessly now, along with a much smoother powerband. i loooooves it.

i mounted mine in on the strut tower with velcro and zip ties. but i dont have that giant can to mount it to, i have an spfi EA82.... im almost done wiring it in as im typing this. fingers crossed

i have a 2 inch lift. its the one at the top of the 3rd page, the white wagon. and LOTS of bashing in the wheel well. word to the wise: extend your radius rods when you do a 2 in lift, so you don't spend 2 hours on each wheel well with a sledge hammer. it will push the wheel forward a bit and give you some turning radius without bashing the frame rails.

when i had mine in my honda, i had it zip tied to the abs modulator/unit. i think i might velcro mine down. when there is enough velcro on it, it can hold pretty damn well. thanks for everything guys! im definitely going to put this bad boy in on my lunch break at work tomorrow.

you used the stock coil? no issues, obviously? one other thing, where/how did you mount yours? do you have pics?

that's a good point, i always forget, the easiest miles to put on your car are highway miles. in any case, i have some OEM intake gaskets in the trunk. does anybody know of any tricks to make the gasket reuseable, say i replace them, drive it a week and decide to replace the HG's and et cetera anyways for reassurance? (i mostly want to do it to port the heads, i just need an excuse and some good weather) are the graphite gaskets a one time torque thing?