KaraK

We pulled the hose from right front, and could blow thru it. Even after hose was disconnected, caliper was still tight (could not turn wheel by hand) Changed hose out anyway, with a used one. Slapped on pads, and bled it. (00-06 Manual said order RR-LR-RF-LF. Just like an old GM) That RF caliper was definately replaced, as LF looks way worse. After test drive, front wheels both a little warm. Will have to do a little more driving- but maybe it IS the caliper. Big Thank You to Tom (TheLoyale) You sure are a swell guy!!! Too bad you had to go, I would have liked to test drive that sweet ride you brought today!

I know you guys are right, and I have no problem with maintainance. I just need to catch it before it goes from- "I think I better check out the brakes pretty soon" -and "HOLY CRAP! pounding shaking crazyness". And- My Subaru is way cooler than those sh*t box Toyotas the Friend drives! Next thing to address- that "chirping" coming from the "belt area" I read on here a while back, about H6 issues with tensioner pulley bearings. I wrote down the Napa part # to repace just the $3 bearing and keep the pulley. Hoping I can find that note... If ya'll can give me tips on other things to "Maintain" I'd appreciate- Thanks guys! We'll let you know how the brake job goes this afternoon!

Am I getting this right? this very nice man helping me fix my car doesn't know how do drive a stick? I could teach him a thing or two...

I am also used to the American cars-(I have a couple) It only makes sense- you are supposed to bleed furthest from the master first. And work your way up. I guess that's why I'm on the USMB, I have no clue about these "new fangled" Japanese cars. My friend told me I needed one cause you never have to lay underneath them. I guess he was wrong.

No, I wasn't driving the "Grandma Wagon" to the parts store. Had to go to my favorite store in the town I used to live, to trade in some GM parts for Subaru parts (Priorities right? ) (had to order, will get in next day or two) Don't worry, would take LOTS more to annoy me, I just really apprecieate the help. Thanks Gary!

O.K. Off to the parts store.....

Thanks Gary!

What? get out the spray cans, and puts some flames over my shiney green grandma paint????

Gary???

Gave up on the 3.0 idea hey? Old technology(timing chain)=good technology. Can't underestimate the power of the "Grandma wagon"

Do you think it's the calipers?

A friend of mine had a hose issue on a 98 somethingJapanese (not a Subaru). He said he replaced the caliper twice, and it ended up being the hose. I also saw the hose thing on some of my initial searches for this problem. You certainly know better than I! Wheel bearing??

Back from my test drive, When I step on the brake it does kind of lock, but the car will inch up slowly, not like its locked-locked. It does feel like the brakes are on, going extra slow thru the subdivision. Also noticed, going extra slow, the rotational noise sounds like footsteps on gravel, not like the squeek I'd come to expect from warped rotor (but I'm not the brightest bulb around here by a long shot) Thoughts???? P.S. the wheel did heat up, even though I was going extra slow, if that matters.

Tom said that the bearing and whatnot seemed O.K. when we had it jacked up. I will go drive up+down the road now, to check per your instructions. One thing that may or may not be pertinant, since this has been happening, I park in the driveway (slight downhill incline(decline)) put it in park, If I move my body forward and back, (or push the car a little) It will make a groaning noise and creep forward an inch or two. It will do this three times before it stops. I will check in again after my ride.

Drove the car to school today- OMG! The wheel is REALLY HOT! I touched the rotor with my fingernail, it INSTANTLY melted!!! I could see the heat waves coming off it!!! I think? this may be more than rotor warpage?? (or could it be?) If the original problem was just corrosion where pads meet bracket/caliper/clips, and we cleaned that off- It really shouldn't be hanging up THAT much to cause this much HEAT!!! I'm I right??? Should I be looking at possible caliper, hose, ABS issues? Any/all input gladly welcomed. Thanks. P.S. One more day of school tomorow- Do I try to make it??? (about 15miles each way) P.P.S. I'd like to note that the pass.side caliper, and housing were replaced by prev. owner at 103,000mi. she currently has 118,000mi.

Sorry, I guess I haven't stated before- I plan on doing the front brakes properly later in the week. I was stranded at home (out in the sticks) and needed to get to school Mon.-Wed.(TheLoyale to the rescue!) I was planning on doing pads both sides, but only turning OR replacing pass side rotor. Do I really need to go through the time/expense of calipers?? Was trying to avoid bleeding (brakes AND my wallet) Would it be terrible to leave driver side rotor alone? I wouldn't mind turning it, but would really like to avoid the caliper thing- Am I being dumb?(Ignorant) Thoughts on the "hot wheel issue"? Just the warpage?? Would hate to spend $$ I don't really have, and then ruin the new stuff.

I'm with you there sister!

Although the car is driveable now, it does seem as though the rotor is warped.(or the same thing is happening again) I have been taking approx 15 mile trips to school, and that wheel is still getting HOT. Could this be simply the pads rubbing high spots on the rotor? Or is it getting ready to lock up again? I read somewhere about the rubber hose breaking down and not allowing fluid back to the master? If that is so- would pushing in the pistons, and cleaning up the area where pads meet caliper, allow me to drive 40-50-80 miles before reoccurance???? Your thoughts are much appreciated!!! Once again BIG Thank You to TheLoyale for his help:):)

I agree! Unbelieveable!!!! It really does take a "special" kind of person !

Thanks Tom(TheLoyale)! It wasn't that bad afer all!

My goal right now is just to get the thing on the road- I'll probly be taking it apart again next week to get the rotor turned and probly new pads (by then I'll be an expert- ) I am kinda concerned about how to remove the caliper when it is clamped so tight to the rotor that I can't turn the wheel by hand. ????? Once that issue is addressed, that bracket thing stays on- and I don't swing that up? I read that the caliper is the only thing holding the rotor on, and to put some lugs back on to hold it in place while removing caliper. I am assuming the reason for the hang up in the first place IS those slide things- I hope to clean/lube and reuse them. Sooo- they screw out?? There are no nuts/pins involved?? Posts I searched were talking about pounding/pressing/torching.

Thanks for your vote of confidence:) Looks like I will be going for it- Since its raining, I have time to do a little more research and compile more Soob specific ???'s--- only brakes I've ever done are GM.

I'm ahead of you on the PB--- I think the threads I searched were refering to the pins being next to impossible to get out. I think this may have been going on for a week or two (I smelled a burnt plastic smell) (and a slight feeling of warpage) It just got REALLY REALLY bad yesterday.

Thanks, Miles, and John-- After searching for above, I'm not sure if this is within my capabilities (I don't have a torch) I'm gonna wait till tomorow I think- Maybe threads I searched were "worst case senarios"? And hours of creative pounding/torches is not typical???:eek: Words of encouragement??? Or???