Strakes

Just drove it. No changes...even while cold. Reverse works well. I found the band adjustment screw and locknut. That thing is hard to reach...lefthand side on top of transmission, right under the firewall. Any tricks besides shrinking my hands to reaching this?

I was hoping that this is an electronic answer. The Haynes says that if it shifts from 1st to 3rd, the band clearance may be too big and to adjust the bands. The car runs out 1st and then shifts into 3rd. The RPMs go way up and the speed has to reach about 30mph for it to drop into 3rd. The car will go into reverse and back up. I'll go try the d down to d2 this morning after breakfast and let you know.

I did a few searches and came up empty handed. Our 1993 Legacy Auto transmission shifted fine all day and this evening on the way home, the car would go from 1st to 3rd. It skips 2nd and won't go into 4th. I manually shifted it and the same thing. You put it into 1st...stays in 1st. Put it into 2nd and it stubbornly stays in 1st with the rpms reaching close to redline. Put it in 3rd and it skips 2nd and goes straight to 3rd. Put it in "D" and even though it had just a few miles ago shifted into overdrive/4th, now it won't. If you let off the gas completely when it's in 3rd, the RPM's drop way down to about 1100 rpms. All this happened after driving, running errands all day, on a hot transmission. I've checked the fluid level and it is good and not burnt. No CEL or other warning lights came on. The transmission has been serviced regularly (at 12000 mile intervals) since its overhaul 60000+ miles ago. The total vehicle mileage is 175000. Where should I go from here to solve this mystery?

Subaru has a sport muffler, but that's only axle-back. I've got it on my car and I bought it because I thought the stock was too sterile-sounding. It gives a little lower tone. I like it a lot. The cat back (or the full exhaust including a high flow cat) that everyone likes is made by Stromung: http://www.stromung.com/ These 2 options are not "ricer" sounding or goofy fart-can looking. Performance wasn't the reason I bought mine...it was sound. I really can't tell if there is a difference in performance. The installation directions that came with the Subaru muffler that I bought had me reset the computer to "benefit" from the better performance.

Very Nice! Did you lay some rubber backing into that handicap spot?

Did you try "rocker panel cover"?

I was in the market back in 2002 and learned (IIRC): 2001 and after Legacys and 2002 and after Imprezas have LATCH. And I really like having LATCH because there is no guessing if that car seat is in securely. It is a pain otherwise...especially in the older GM vehicles that you had to put the seatbelt lock thingy in as well. ARGH! Anyway, latch is great for us parents. Good luck on finding your car.

New GT? Pics? We want pics!

I went from Volvos to Subaru. The later model Volvos were pretty expensive to maintain compared to the earlier rear drive ones in my experience. I am very satisfied with the switch. However, you may like the "prestige" look with the other luxury brands you're considering.

Hard to diagnose over the internet without being there...but I think your clutch is having issues. A new clutch may cost you $800. So maybe another board member can tell whether you can adjust yours first (much cheaper). I know that 2000 and after Legacy/Outback have the self adjusting kind. Not sure about yours though. Clutches wear out faster for some people and slower for others. I bought a used car once with 75000 miles and the clutch was slipping and needed replacing. I usually get close to 100000 miles on my clutches. Some board members can somehow go forever without wearing out theirs. That's why I asked how many miles you had on that clutch.

You may be able to adjust the clutch cable to remedy this if you have a manually adjustable type clutch. If you have a hydraulic, self adjusting clutch, your clutch is just about to give up its lunch. How many miles do you have on this clutch?

Got an 02 GT wagon as well...since new also. Looked, there is no cover underneath the passenger dash. The side trim covers the center tunnel, and ends near the firewall. But no cover underneath behind the glove box. I guess manufacturers ask why pay to build a plastic cover where no-one sees or doesn't need protecting since it is inside? If this isn't the place your looking at, please post a pic, and I can tell you for sure if it looks the same.

Busted axle? Transmission just croaked? Maybe others have a better suggestion. It's really hard to diagnose this without actually being there to see, hear and verify.

50 watt: http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1333&NodeID=5202&RootID=1414 30 watt: http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2003601&TID=100&TID=100&productId=2003601&catalogId=10101 I think the bulb is an #1156...but not sure. Maybe it's an 1157? Please double check.

I love NGK...that's what I use in my Subarus. But if you have difficulty locating them, Denso plugs are a good alternative. I had Bosch +4s in the 93 Subaru (because they did well in a Volvo) and they worked great for about 12000 miles. Then I started having a rough running engine and lower than average gas mileage. Replaced them with NGKs and haven't looked back since.

2002 GT Legacy Wagon, KYB GR-2 Part numbers: 334273 GR-2 GAS STRUT KYB Front Right 334274 GR-2 GAS STRUT KYB Front Left 341275 GR-2 GAS SHOCK KYB Rear Both sides These part numbers were confirmed by getting a quote at the tirerack for my GT wagon. I havent purchased the struts yet to know if they are the ones that work. Hope this helps!

Another Tennessean on the board! Welcome! How's Chattanoogy?

That part number is the KYB GR2 part. The part numbers for your car are the following: All are KYB GR2s: Front Right 334275 Front Left 334276 Rear Right & Left are the same: 341276 How do I know? I'm looking at a set of GR-2s for my 2002 GT Legacy (different part numbers) and have been trying to get quotes from various places. Many places like to quote me the OBW numbers maybe because they don't know much about the differences in Subarus. Also, so far in my case, the tirerack has been the cheapest place for struts..even beating a couple Ebay retailers.

There are aftermarket seats available, but they are typically the "racing" seats. Check E-bay for those. I doubt that's what you want though. Junk yard maybe the best place, but then you might be swapping an old tired seat for another tired seat. Last resort maybe to take a junkyard seat and put it in. Take your seat out and have a good auto upholstery shop re-upholster it (with new foam of course). When it's done, put your re-built one back in. I don't have any idea how much it costs. Ask someone that's into hot-rods, you may get a good recommendation that way.

Ditto what Setright said. My Subaru "performance" sports muffler sounds just right, without the headache and irritating drone. My second choice is Stromung: http://www.stromung.com/

With all the luck you're having...go buy a lottery ticket, quick!

30000 miles change is good. I would do it if you are planning to keep it for a long time. We bought our 93 used with 90000 miles on it. There were all sorts of records for oil changes and routine stuff done to it from mostly independent shops. Not one record of transmission services. The transmission started to have problems at 100000 miles and gave up at about 115000 miles. I think its failure can be linked to the lack of transmission services. He seemed to have followed the guidelines in the owners manual...but the transmission service interval was difficult to find in it. I looked at the fine print and there was "replace fluid if operated in a severe service at 30000 miles", and severe service was most people drive. The transmission service is super easy to do on Subarus. Also recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF thats Dexron III (or higher) compatible. They sell it at the local Autozone...so I assume it is easy to find. Been using that since the overhaul. Also, make sure you don't drain the differential instead of the tranny. The drain plugs are confused often by the highly talented folks at Jiffy-Lube and other quick change places.

Our 93 had a cracked filler tube at the base where it went into the valve cover. The filler tube from Subaru comes with the o-rings.

I am guessing about $800 if you price it around and have a shop do it. Much cheaper if you do it yourself. I think you need about $400 in parts, and about a full day worth of labor.

Subaru replaced my clutch under warranty. It's much nicer. None of that judder, bucking, and shaking when cold. The official Subaru Service Bulletin number is 03-51-02, dated 01/15/03 regarding cold clutch judder.