Strakes

Our 93 used to do this. I took off the wiper arms and the plastic base windshield trim. I found that there was a ton of gunk caked on and in the moving mechanisms. I cleaned them out with WD40 and then lubed them with a lithium based spray grease. This did the trick and haven't had a problem for over a year now.

Good advice! Wilco.

I agree. Got the 02 sensor on order. I ordered a coolant temp sensor also...it was $20. My plan is to install these 2 items this coming weekend. Thanks for the help so far.

I'm running metal masters on my car right now and they dust slightly more than OEM, but the Deluxes dust less than OEM.

I don't know the full list but my 2002 GT Wagon has it. That year, all the GTs had them.

Checked the codes. All I got was 32 (Oxygen Sensor). This is the original sensor on the car. Do you think this will solve the problem?

http://www.importrp.com/index.php Just one of many places to look for brake pads. Shop around for the best price though.

If you get the Axxis-PBR Deluxe pads, you'll get very little dust. I used to have a set on my car and loved them because of the dustless performance. They seemed to fade a little less, and have better bite than the stock.

The stock pads from the dealer for my wife's car were stamped "Akebono" on the back. Sometimes a car manufacturer can change suppliers, or have different suppliers for different model cars so this may be one of the manufacturers.

Oops...I didn't have a check engine light so I didn't even think to check the codes. Forgot all about the fact that some faults aren't going to set off the CEL. I like your coolant temp sensor idea though. I'll check the codes tomorrow afternoon to see what I get. Thanks!

Our 1993 2wd, 2.2 liter Normally Aspirated, Legacy L Wagon with 159,000 miles is having a stalling problem. Randomly, at start-up only, the engine cranks and will not start. Come back to it after 3-5 minutes, and it starts right up and runs normally without any weird idle or revving issues. The car runs great through-out the power band. It is a problem only at start. Sometimes this stalling won't occur for a week or two. I have done the following recently within the last 8000 miles: New Purolator fuel filter New NGK Plugs New OEM plug wires Cleaned out IAC Valve with brake cleaner (did this twice, just to be sure) Battery is 2 years old and holds a good charge. What should I check next? Cam position sensor going bad? The distributer thingy on top of the intake where the plug wires connect? Any ideas on where to proceed is appreciated. Thank you in advance.

I have an ipd 22mm rear sway bar and I love it too. Just be careful in the wet though. It appears to me that the handling is completely neautral. What have you experienced with the Whiteline?

Spark plug tightening torque: 13-17 ft/lbs Spark plug gap: 1.0-1.1mm or .039-.043in

Trying to find an H speed rating tire for your size can be hard. If you go to an alternate size such as 195/65R14 which I used to run on my wife's 93 legacy with no problems, you'll have a lot more selection available on the H speed rating criteria. Or...do what subie94 says. Find another shop that'll put on S or T speed rated tires in the 185/70R14 size that you currently have.

Goo Gone.

We had the previous generation Yokohama H4 tires on my wife's legacy. They were great tires. The snow traction was it's only weakness and apparently these newer ones may have addressed that.

If the alternator's fairly new, you should be able to take it back on warranty. If a shop put it in for you, then I'd go back to them and see what they have to say. If you put it in yourself, the parts store may carry a one year warranty on it.

The following is list of maintenance schedules: http://www.specialinterest.subaru.com/owners/schedules The ones I saw said the the 3.0 and turbocharged cars have a 60000 mile change interval.

To fix it right, weld in a repair or replace the entire affected area. Then prime with a rust preventative primer, such as the stuff POR15 has to offer. (I had a rusty Volvo that POR15 did wonders on.) However, to stop rust and keep it from getting worse or to prevent it all together, I would use par-al-ketone thinned out with a bit of mineral spirits and then sprayed with a trigger bottle directly onto the affected areas. Also, using this stuff as an anti-corrosion coating for those not visible areas on your car, is an excellent preventative measure. My friend and I used this on his old Ford Bronco's problem areas (frame and inner fenders) five years ago and still there is no rust. Here's where you can get it: http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/appages/paralketone.php I hope this helps and good luck.

Our 2002 Legacy has an allergin filter that seems to work great according to my wife who has all the allergies. Call the dealer and see if they sell a kit for your model year. I don't know if they had that as an option in 98.

Did you take a look at www.tirerack.com ? If not, look at all the reviews/ratings for individual tires at that site.

Did you take a look at www.tirerack.com ? If not, look at all the reviews/ratings for individual tires at that site.

is one of the engine mounts busted?

We have these on our 93 legacy. Quietest tire I've ever owned. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Avid+Touring&vehicleSearch=true&partnum=16SR6TOUR&fromCompare1=yes

Asking opinions on oil is like asking people who you should vote for. My 2 cents: You can't go wrong with Mobil-1. It's good stuff. I use it in 5W40 or 15W50 summertime in my 2002 Legacy. I used Mobil-1 in my previous Volvos. I use non-synthetic Chevron Delo 15W40 in my 1993 Legacy. Have you been using a particular brand of 5W30 consistently in the past? Then I'd say stick with that brand and go up to a 10W30 non-synthetic or 5W30/40/50 synthetic.