Strakes

2002 Legacy GT Stock player. Yes, the homemade cd's work.

It's a really thin cable...really hard to see unless you have a high powered microscope.

I am having a similar issue with my '02. Where did you buy this stuff?

:banana: Pizza should be our national currency...yum.

I agree, see if it happens again before you throw money at it. The Technical Service Bulletin says that all conditions don't have to be met for it to be that. You definately have met the most common one. BTW, the total parts are about $75 for the slave cylinder, $5 for gaskets, and $25 for the hose. It's cheaper if you get the parts online at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ when, and if, it happens again and you decide to replace the parts according to the TSB. Good luck!

See if this might be the issue: Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB NUMBER: 03-52-03R DATE: 07/15/03 APPLICABILITY: 1995-2002MY Legacy; 1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and 1998-2003MY Forester All models have Manual Transmissions SUBJECT: Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised) INTRODUCTION In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system under certain weather conditions. PROCEDURE To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that match your vehicle using the following procedure: For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches 1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold. 2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the clutch pipe and bracket. 3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft. lbs. 4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission. 5) Add brake fluid. 6) Bleed the air from the system. 7) Install the intake chamber. 8) Check the following items: a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed. Check whether the clutch performs normally. For Turbo models 1) Remove the intercooler. 2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be removed. 3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs. 4) Add brake fluid. 5) Bleed the air from the system. 6) Install the intercooler. 7) Check the following items: a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed. Check whether the clutch performs normally. This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown.

Well, I added a bottle of coolant dye from NAPA and black-lighted it. It appears that Gloyale and ShawnW are correct. The upper hose had pinched under the clamp creating a really tiny rip that would only manifest itself under pressure and time. I replaced both top and bottom hoses and clamps and refilled with fresh coolant. Now after 200 miles, all seems well. Thank you guys for your help. BTW, I bought one of those $6 telescoping and pivoting mirrors...that really helped locate the leak on the bottom of the top hose. What a handy tool to have!

Thank you guys for your replies. The manifold has not been off the car since we've owned it at 89K. It now has 178K. That brings up a weird question, there aren't any coolant lines through the intake are there? Those brown deposits could be a manifold leak right? Idle air control valve and it's hoses look great. Thanks for that idea. I tightened the upper radiator hose clamp, and then checked for the tell-tale signs of a leak and didn't find any. I took out a dental mirror to look at the bottom of the hose and found what I think is a leak from the end of the hose as if the hose clamp was loose. I think I'll replace them anyway, even though they look to be in decent shape and then do a pressure test like ShawnW said.

1993 NA 2.2 Legacy FWD. I have an intermittant coolant leak. I hate intermittant problems. The location is forward passenger side area (#1 cylinder) Is this the leak coming from where the arrow is pointing? I occasionally get a puddle of coolant laying there on top of the engine and have ruled out the hose. The puddle can flow back and lay on top of the head as well. Sorry about the 2nd pic... a little out of focus, but it gives a good idea of what I think it is. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62594 Subaru part number 20323FA000 http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=2917&highlight= Both these links may be helpful to you. Any of us who either lower or raise our 2000-2004 Legacy/Outbacks run into this issue because the tops of the new springs are designed to fit them "foreign" Legacies.

Quick! Sell your idea to Subaru. $$$

Latch pics attached. You need of these 2 "Latches" per car seat. I saw a universal retrofit at Baby's R Us a few months ago. However, I bet you can just go to the hardware store and get the appropriate d hook and mounting bolts as well.

http://www.pbase.com/image/2493846 http://www.carseat.org/Legal/622_Latch.htm The latch looks like this (metal "D" ring attached to a hard point on the car between the top and bottom seat cushions). When I get home tonight, I'll post a pic from my 2002 that has them.

I have used AGS Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant. Works great. http://www.agscompany.com/products/index.php?catId=53&viewProducts=true

pm me with your fax number, I'll fax you the removal/install procedure with pics sometime later this week if you're interested.

Welcome back!

Good decision. I was about to tell you about my sister in law's absolute disaster with these lying stealing freaks....argh! Don't get me started!

I meant "rear of the engine" to be the area between the engine and transmission. Sorry if I was confusing. You bring up a valid point, I'll make sure to check the driver's & passengers side to make sure the rear cam seals aren't leaking as well.

1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon, 2WD, 2.2 Liter, approximately 176,000 miles All the front oil seals (crank-cams-valve covers-oil pump-oil pan ultra grey) have been replaced within the last month and are dry. This has dramatically reduced the amount of oil on the garage floor. Now that I've eliminated that side of the engine as oil leaks, another has been found. The oil leak appears to come from the rear of the engine and is definately motor oil (not differential oil). It leaks down from the rear of the engine, onto the lower subframe and the rear differential and then onto the ground. I eliminated the differential by degreasing the entire area, servicing the differential, and it was dry for a few days before the leak propigates from the rear of the engine to the ground via the above route. Also, the "sniff test" verifies that the oil leak is not gear oil. Anyway, what seal is the suspect? And while I am there what other suspects are there that should be attacked? Thanks in advance!

I ended up buying a new tensioner assembly. www.subarugenuineparts.com The part was difficult to find using the menus so I would email them as well: sales@subarugenuineparts.com The removal and re-install took me a total of 15 minutes. It was super easy to replace. Good luck!

Finally! I really hope they bring this to the US market. I bet it'll get excellent fuel mileage.

The dealer will likely be the most expensive place. Get a printed quote from them, including the throw-out bearing, and shop around. Start asking some of your friends for a recommendation on a reputable independent shop that has experience working on Subarus. Maybe someone on this board who lives in your area can recommend you a shop? You may have to make a new post to get recommendations though.

About to do a timing belt, cam/crank seals, oil pump reseal, new tensioner, new pulleys...the works. It's a 1993 Legacy Wagon 2.2 Liter normally aspirated engine. I did a search and came up with a general consensus that the Haynes Manual I have has an incorrect torque spec for the main crank pulley. However, in my search, some say 100,110,120 or 140 ft/lbs and use loctite. I will be using loctite, but what's the torque spec on this bolt? Also, are there any other incorrect torque specs in the Haynes manual while I'm doing this timing belt that I should be aware of? Thanks!

If it's anything like my '02 GT Wagon then do this: Drive the car onto ramps elevating the front of the car. The lower plastic cover/inner fender well cover can be moved out of the way by removing the lower plastic fastener located behind the front air flap closest to the outside of the car. (No need to remove the flap) Remove the metal screw holding the inside the cover on, located behind the front wheel toward the front of the car. With this, I was able to move the lower plastic cover/fender liner out of the way enough to remove the bulb from the back of the foglight and replace it. Good luck.

I am truly sorry about what you are having to go through. Try not to consider a $3100 car worthless...those $3100 saved your life and all your fellow Subaru nut-cases here on the board are all glad that you are okay. Keep us posted on your recovery. You'll be in my thoughts and prayers. God Bless.