mrfixiter

Hi everyone. My 1997 Legacy GT, MT, Station Wagon will crank but not will not start. i borrowed a fuel system pressure tester and installed it in between the fuel filter in/out hoses. I then cycled the on/off switch several times to see if the pressure would gradually increase. I could hear the fuel pump relay clicking but the fuel pump meter wasn't budging off of zero. I found a copy of the wiring diagram and discovered that fuse #16 (which measures OK) in the under-dash fuse box supplies power to the fuel pump relay coil and SBF-4 in the main fuse box supplies voltage to the pump after the fuel pump relay closes. I'd like to cut to the chase here and see if the voltage is making it to the fuel pump. I looked under the rear bench seat and found, what looks to be fuel lines going down into the body but there was no access panel. In the same area was plug R1 which, according to the schematic, is two plugs away from the fuel pump. Before I start pulling everything apart in the hatchback area, I'd like to get confirmation that there is an access panel to be found. Might someone know where the fuel pump access panel is if indeed there is one? Here is a link to the wiring diagram if you're curious. https://app.box.com/s/xfdukryspro91pthe106o1w3hgl9h0ee Thanks for your help. 😀 mrfixiter

The reason I like the concentrated stuff is that it's only about 15% more expensive and you get 100% more coolant. I do have the, Notify me of replies enabled. The wording in my profile doesn't expressly say, "Send me an e-mail when I receive a reply," it says, " A notification when new content is posted." I do get popup notifications through this forum but I do not receive an e-mail. My other choice in my notification settings is to select, "One email per day with all new content from that day". Is that the extent of my e-mail choices? In other words, is there a way to receive an e-mail after every post? Thanks for your reply.

I am well aware of the burp issues especially with my model having the thermostat mounted directly underneath the water pump. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTDDpUzL9XA By the way, will this Peak coolant be OK to use? https://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/oet-asian-vehicles-extended-life-green/ Thanks for your reply.

I have an off topic question to begin with, is there a way to get e-mail notification when someone replies to my topic? I haven't posted to this forum since last year and I thought I used to receive an e-mail any time someone would reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------- I finally made the decision to buy an OEM Subaru radiator, about $275 including tax and shipping from an online Subaru parts place. I didn't feel like worrying whether or not all the holes would line up and if it would be a quality product. It should arrive next week. Thanks for all the RockAuto ordering tips. I can't wait to join in on the fun the next time I need parts. Thanks for your replies.

I suppose if you know exactly what you want, you can find a bargain. I won't write them off completely just yet. Thanks for your reply.

I took out a tape measure and measured the dimensions as best as I could with the radiator in the car and the numbers seemed to match the specs +/- a half inch. I suppose I should remove the radiator and measure it again to get a more accurate reading. Thanks for sharing your customer service experience. I guess they have enough business to service the masses but not enough manpower to answer anything that doesn't apply to their current list of stocked parts. I could not find any e-mail links on their site. Did you fill out a webform or did you get a real e-mail address? Makes perfect sense to me. That's the answer I was looking for. Presently, I'm leaning toward the purchase of the Amazon radiator. Thanks to everyone for all of your replies.

The only agreement I can get on part numbers is if I buy an OEM part. I went to the Advance Auto webpage and the same situation exists as with Rock Auto. I did notice this in the small print in the description of one of the radiators: So I guess the transmission type doesn't matter? Amazon has one radiator on their list. For $61 and free shipping, that seems like a bargain. I did notice that some of the users' feedback mentioned fitment issues. I really don't want to be modifying anything to get it to fit. Metalwork isn't one of my strengths. Fitment aside, does that seem like a reasonable choice? As far as NAPA goes, they have a larger selection but they're no competition for Amazon in terms of price. Thanks for your reply.

Hi I went to the RockAuto webpage, entered the year, make, model, and engine size. Conspicuously absent were the queries for body style (GT wagon) and transmission (M/T). These are the choices that came up. I clicked on the info button for a few of the radiators and some of them mention oil or transmission lines. For example, the KOYORAD radiator says: Does it matter if a buy a radiator that has the oil coolant tubes even though I won't be using them? The KOYORAD website says there are no radiators available for my car (where I did have to enter body style and transmission type). When I did a another search by typing in the Subaru part number directly which is, 45199AC100, then I got a completely different list of radiators. RockAuto doesn't seem to offer any tech support so perhaps the experts in this group could help me figure this out. Thanks for your reply.

Hi everyone I really appreciate all the suggestions you've put forth. The one post that sealed (no pun intended!) the deal was the suggestion to fill up the radiator and then run it up to temperature. I didn't follow that route exactly but what I did do achieved the same result. I filled up the radiator and then I used the pressure tool again to see what would happen. As the pressure rose to about 6 psi, a tiny stream of coolant started streaming down from the top of the radiator, several inches away from the bleeder screw. I will be ordering a new radiator. Thanks again for all your replies.

I looked at RockAuto. Looks like they have some amazing deals there! Convenience being the keyword here. I do like your suggestion of using "port" and "starboard." Thanks for your replies.

From now on, I'll use left and right as is standard in the automotive industry. Any suggestions as to where I can get the best deal on an OEM replacement radiator from a reputable online dealer? Thanks for your reply.

Just to clarify, is that the plastic cap which I'm calling the coolant bleeding screw? If not, where is this plastic cap? Thanks for your reply.

The radiator core gaskets aren't replaceable items, are they? Regarding the vent plug, is that the same plug that I was referring to as the coolant bleeding screw near the upper radiator hose? Thanks for your reply.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check it out.

I was trying to avoid making a mess with the spillage but that certainly sounds like the most direct method. I'll check it out if the soap bubble test doesn't get me anywhere. The square headed bleeder plug sits atop the radiator on the passenger side which is the left side when you're standing in front of the car looking under the hood. I put pipe thread tape on it but that didn't help. I've heard so many bad things about using a stop leak additive whether it be for radiators, tires, A/C systems, or motor oil. I'd rather just fix it properly. Thanks for your replies.

Hi there. 1997 Legacy, MT, GT Wagon with 172k miles. I checked under the hood the other day and saw the coolant recovery tank was nearly empty. I borrowed a radiator pressure tester from the local Autozone store and it's not holding any pressure. When I pump up the tester to about 5 lbs, I can hear air coming out from somewhere around the coolant bleeder screw and the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the radiator. I don't see any visible cracks or damage to any of the components. I replaced the hose but the problem still exists. When the engine was running you could see coolant dripping around where the radiator connects to the hose. I torqued down the hose clamps to 35 in-lbs and made sure the bleeder screw was tight. I'm not sure what other adjustments or tests I can make. Do I need to refill the radiator to the top for the pressure test to be accurate? Presently, the coolant level is about an inch or two below full. Edit: I wonder if putting some soapy water around the place where I hear the air will pinpoint the problem? Thanks for your reply.

Hi again, Since my last post, I have been able to remove the engine and replace the head gaskets. Now the engine is on the engine stand and I need to figure out where to put the silicone sealer on the front, camshaft caps. Below is a page from the service manual and some photos of what I am looking at. https://app.box.com/s/u36olscjp87m6q5bwvdqwmi90e9qyqvi In the diagram labeled, G2M0752, there is a drawing of what I think is one of the front caps that secure the cam shaft. My question is, what is the orientation of that drawing? Is this looking at the top of the cap as it is mounted to the head? Or is it the underside view? Where exactly is the silicone supposed to be applied? Also, is it acceptable to use Ultra Grey to seal it? Next is the question about the diagram in the service manual (see link in first paragraph) labeled, G2M0755. There are two arrows pointing to the two contact points where the valve cover meets the head. Am I supposed to put a dab of silicone on the arced part of the valve cover where it touches the head? Here is a photo of the remnants of the old silicone sitting on the head. You can see a small gray blob of it between the valve cover and the head. https://app.box.com/s/gzs9tmuxzm5kxfennl12bq54j16vws1j Thanks in advance for your help.

There is no oil cooler and there is no coolant pooling at the top of the engine. Thanks for your help.

I will check that out today. I know there is a coolant line that runs around the throttle body that could be the source of a leak too. I'm fairly certain there is no oil cooler but I will definitely check it out. Thanks for your help.

Hi Rampage The radiator fans do run fine when the engine warms up. In fact, nearly every time I park the car after any trip longer than 15 minutes, I will hear the fans come on at high speed when I turn the key back to "ON" so I can roll the windows up. I think what you're saying is since the coolant is not leaking near the water pump, then it's more likely the head gasket is leaking than the pump or a hose. I have replaced the timing belt and pump before so I've had my fun learning the proper way to do that. I think just getting the timer cover off will give me a chance to see if the drips are coming straight down or are being funneled into that neighborhood because of other engine components. By the way, the engine is a 2.5l DOHC Thanks for your help.

Hi Imdew The radiator is always full though the level in the overflow tank drops slowly over time. When I tested it today it had been parked for about a week. The ambient temperature here is around 65 F so I don't understand when you say, "When cold, it will hold pressure," because it did not hold pressure just sitting in the driveway. Also, there is no oily black stuff anywhere in the system that I can see. Should I confirm with one of those chemical gas tester liquids that will change colors if there are exhaust gases in the radiator? Thanks for your help.

Hi everyone My 1997 Legacy GT wagon with 165k miles (original engine and owner) has started to overheat when I drive uphill for more than a couple of minutes. The last major service was four years ago when I had the clutch, timing belt, water pump, and all the idlers changed. It had been 11 years since my last timing belt change in 2005 and also the clutch was starting to act up so I thought it was time to do some maintenance. I believe the car had about 142k miles back in 2016. Back to the present, I hooked up my OBD2 scanner to read the exact numbers and the temperature climbs to as high as 235 degrees F during these mild uphill drives. My workaround as been to downshift into 4th gear. As a result, the increased RPM's from the downshifting, lowers the temperature within a few seconds to a safer operating temperature, sometimes as much as 15 degrees F less. When I'm back on a more level road, the temp will hover around 210. Today I bought a coolant pressure system tester and pumped up the system to 13 lbs (that was the number stamped on the cap). Then I noticed something was dripping under the car. I crawled underneath the car and saw that the leak was coming from near the oil filter and apparently behind the timing cover. The fluid was a very clear color so I'm assuming it's coolant. The coolant and oil show no signs of cross contamination. By the way, the pressure gauge held the pressure pretty well. It took about 10 minutes for the pressure to lose about one pound. Next, I'd like to figure out where the leak is coming from. My idea is to remove the timing belt cover and see if the leak is coming from the vicinity of the water pump. First of all, does this approach make sense and if so, is it possible to leave the radiator and hoses in place and still remove the timing belt cover so I can pressurize the system again to see where the leak is? Thanks for your help.

I have a cover seal that is deformed from my 1997 Legacy GT wagon. The part is not stocked locally by my dealer and I was wondering if it is really that necessary to have it at all. It looks like this: http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Subaru/LH-belt-cover-closeup.jpg and it is not seating properly. Both the front and back of the seal are deformed. Thanks for your reply.

Here's a follow up: I managed to remove the cam seal. i lubed the new one and tapped it lightly with a 1/4" extension bar but every time I tapped in one side, the other side came out. Then I had an idea that if I stacked up the three remaining new seals along with the old crank seal, I could use those to make an extension tube-like device. I tapped those on with a rubber mallet and I saw the seal sink in but when I took a closer look, again it had not seated all the way in. I tried all different kinds of tubes pipes. Nothing worked. I realigned the new seal on the shaft and I gave another try at stacking up the new seals again . One, two, three? Where was the third remaining new seal? I looked everywhere. I thought it fell into my pile of parts somewhere. Oh well. I'll buy another one. Then I looked in a not so obvious place. I removed the seal I was trying to pound in and found another new seal under it. When I initially made my stack of seals, I did such a good job that I pounded the first one in and another one almost went in too. The seal is fairly deep in there and I don't think that's going to work like that, will it? If I could just figure out how to remove the cam housing and perhaps push it out from behind. Thoughts? Thanks for your reply.

Hi Getting back to the sealant question, when I removed the thermostat case, there were small traces of silicone remaining on the case. I noticed there wasn't a gasket there. Is there supposed to be a gasket there other than the rubber ring that goes around the thermostat? Do I need any kind of sealant there? I am still curious what this means: I removed the two screws for what I thought was the LH exhaust cam seal housing. I didn't see anything come loose. Does this require more screws being removed under the valve cover? Thanks for your reply.