89Ru

https://imgur.com/gallery/vDzDdMQ/comment/2433311575 Found a donor, grabbed most of above, after pic.Not sure about getting it painted to match or not. Might keep it two tone.

Good to know. Have a friend who can weld if it comes to that.

Awesome, those kangaroos pack a punch eh. Engine crossmember and strut towers good.

Going to try the come-a-along method first. Rad support is mangled, maybe too far gone. Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/vDzDdMQ

2008 outback 2.5L auto, 217k. Car is totaled by insurance. As I have a lot invested in this car I feel the value is worth more than its presently calculated. Not doing a job like this before, just how fixable is this car? Plan is to remove the bumper and replace the metal framework and broken bits (headlight(s), radiator, condenser). Aside from the obvious damage below, what pitfalls if any are there? Early AM drive at highway speeds, was able to slow a bit but still much carnage. Deer stumbled and fell prior to impact, otherwise it might have gone through the windshield. Unavoidable front end impact to large buck, torpedoing the grill and inwards. No airbags or significant bumper damage. Significant hood damage. Radiator and condenser caved inwards. Lots of plastic shrapnel: radiator cooling fan blades/housing broken/Air guide smashed/t-belt cover punched. T-belt appears intact. No obvious fluid leaks. Alt/Bat light on. No power steering. Car didn't cut out. No CEL. Car able to drive away a few miles from impact site to nearby town which apparently is the classic car capital of the world incidentally. Not verified. Kind of impressed that the car is running. Was able to pull back the crossmember and place a spare alt belt, getting up to operational status fairly quickly. No apparent mixing of coolant and transmission fluid (as the trans fluid looks clear, and not suspecting internal rad damage to the transmission cooler portion). I'll try to post pics.

You get heat in the cabin on warmup or is it delayed or just cold? Bubbles gurgling in the dash? Exhaust gas testing is unreliable for head gasket issues.

For what its worth, 205/55R16 fits my 96 outback wagon. 225/55R17 tire does not fit on rear, rubbing strut. 225/60R16 also does not fit either the front or the rear.

crank seal doesn't require engine removal. just follow steps for timing belt change. while you're down there consider pulleys, water pump, belt, etc. dealer only seals, japanese pulleys, aisen water pump, and mitsuboshi belt. good tbelt kits on ebay.

spec for 2007 subie is 142-171 psi, engine warm, fully open throttle. ymmv. I usually check engine cold, just prefer not wrenching on hot engine.

try this site for factory specs. the numbers I gave you are typical, from legacy outback 2.5 4 cyl 2007-8. my lowest reading is 165, I read at peak after 5-6 cranks. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU

120 on all cylinders? Downright unusual to have bad rings on all cylinders and no oil consumption. Most if not all subaru's of this vintage will consume 'some' oil. Something is strange. Buyer beware. cylinder compression should be 180-210. Probably oil in the spark plug tube from bad plug seals, easy fix with dealer parts. Anemic performance is consistent with low compression. Blowby isn't a precision thing. Can have blowby and still good cylinder compression.

Well the subie is finally running and NOT stalling What fixed the stalling? Not sure but possibly something in the throttle body. I did a JDM engine swap, long block only. Kept the original intake. Still stalling in hot weather. Put the JDM intake on it with the original injectors and new oem seals, and changed/swapped some other bits that were incompatible (fuel rail, intake harness, coolant crossover pipe temp tensor, passenger side AVLS solenoid assembly, airbox hose to the block next to the pcv, plus longer brake booster vacuum hose to get to the right hand drive fitting on the intake). jeepers, this is why everyone keeps their intake. No stalling. Its been about 3 weeks of driving, city/highway in 88+ degree weather. Unless the mech at subaru changed them, the only two unswapped parts are the throttle body and the EGR. Everything else on the intake was swapped at some point. I'm cautiously optimistic. And maybe the original long block is probably fine as a spare if the rear main seal and head gasket(s) are redone.

my 96 obs 2.2 has a four wire oxygen sensor that plugs into the exhaust below, the white connector tees into the harness on the passenger side behind the engine just like your picture

If you have the space, a 20 ton press from harbor freight is handy for older wheel bearings, I've done a few. There's a used KD hub tamer on Ebay, might be missing the two-jaw puller, same set also on CL for over a month, but I've not used one before.