89Ru

suggestions for a hub puller? I've tried a 3-jaw puller, often they break. +1 for air hammer

+1 click is normal. relay is likely good. look for melted wire insulation under the rubber flex conduit.

wheel bearing noise is a peculiar animal whose temperament varies with speed. At 62 mph my left rear wb resonates through the unibody sounding like crazed hornets at the top of the b-pillar.

valve cover bolts bottom out at 5 ft-lb so 3.6 sounds right on. thanks for the doublecheck. btw driver's side rocker bolts were all snug. pass side rocker was hanging on by one snug bolt, one bolt only

had to look up the torques on the eight rocker bolts, everything was super loose. spec is 8.7 + 0.7 ft-lb. http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=20509

thanks for the torques, found a pic of the tightening order, just like you said, inside to outside. I've read stories of these bolts bouncing around inside the cover. Was a close one for sure. Don't wait 200k like me before diving under the cover. Now onto the other side...

first time I looked under the valve cover on my '95 EJ22 outback, glad I did. gotta find the torque's on these, anyone know?

This might seem obvious but one wire will eventually make its way to ground (negative terminal) through the depressed washer switch on the steering column and the other will get 12 volts from a fuse block (FB-x). I don't have a wiring diagram of the '91 otherwise I could be more specific.

watch the torque on those lugs, 65 ft-lb should be enough and re-tighten after 50 miles. too tight and that can warp a rotor or an alloy wheel

How about the slide pins? Try some caliper grease on them if they are sticking. Are the pads evenly worn or are they angled? If they are angled, try a new caliper and of course new pads. Wirebrush the hub surface that mates to the rotor hat and get the rust out of there. If you have a handheld temp gun try getting the rotor temp when the problem occurs and compare to the left side. My gut says its the caliper sticking and causing the rotor to overheat and warp.

Leaks that appear down around the rack can be up high from a leaky o-ring between the tank and the steering pump. Get the o-ring from the dealer, don't try one that's close, it may fit fine but it will leak.

Agree with all the posts, a compressor and impact isn't necessary. I'm currently in the middle of the same job. We talking about the axle nut or the lateral link bolt? Axle nut is easier comparatively. If you can't coax that lateral link bolt out after days of PB blaster soaks, just cut off the seized end of the lateral link bolt with a sawzall and press the bushing and seized sleeve out of the lateral link. The LL bolt might be seized to the knuckle in two places as well. For the pressing, borrow a handheld ball joint press from autozone or find a friend with a harbor freight press to do it off-car. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f106/t95168-help-rear-lateral-link-bolts-seized.html

An expensive lesson no doubt. Thanks for the post, makes us all more wary customers. Tween now and the end when all is justly dealt with, there is the internet.

Less than 10 cents per mile including purchase price if you do most of the work yourself...

Type: Shadetree On what: small engine to Subaru, cut my teeth on an EA82, favorite is a '96 Impreza How Long: 21 years Other Skills: Electrical Engineering, Emergency Medical Technician, electronics repair, roofing, window installation, basic plumbing, amateur arborist, currently I'm in school full time to be a Paramedic

RF LR LF RR the thing I like about motive is the pressure gauge, works great for me at 6 psi or so, dry bottle, but if you can make your own from a spray bottle, that's gonna beat the motive price.

Correction to previous post: For the '97 OBW, PS reservoir O-ring is closer to 11x15x2mm, probably nitrile. Don't know the hardness (70, 90)? Get the right one from the dealer when replacing. Even if you get close with a metric kit o-ring it can still leak. Another key might be centering the reservior outlet in the pump inlet so the o-ring isn't crushed on one side.

Found the adjustment turnbuckle star screw at 6:00 position on the pbrake, turned it a few teeth and no more rubbing. Thanks for the help.

'96 Impreza OBS, 170k Just put new rear rotors on. Parking brake shoes are rubbing on rotor hat, both sides, while spinning the rear wheels when the rear is center jacked up. It makes noise even if the caliper is off (i.e. no pads). Parking brake is disengaged in cabin. Looking at the engagement mechanism seems to be that the shoes can't be disengaged more, they are up against the stops but the hub is on so can't get in there to see. Flexing the cable at the wheel will slightly engage the shoes. I think I'll pull the ebrake and drive 200 yds to wear the shoes down a bit. Hope I don't warp the rotors by doing that.

ahhh, I see the magnetic reed switch insert under the reservior...problem solved. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks, so that is what that float is for! I can't see under the float. I'm assuming there is a switch contact under the float that is somehow stuck...the float is free...

'96 OBS, 170k Due to operator error I got air in the master cylinder, don't make my mistake. After bench bleeding the master cylinder in-car I still can't get the dash brake warning light to go out. I presume this means that the dash light switch in the master cyl is closed due to an air bubble. I followed morgans bench bleed method (plumb two male fittings with hoses from the MS back into its reservior and pump the pedal). If I pump hard, I see tiny bubbles maybe from cavitation?, if I pump slow, no bubbles. How long does it take to get the air out? The problem is complicated by a short in the dash somewhere. If I unplug the master cylinder connector, the light is still there (dim). If I pull the parking brake or plug in the master cylinder connector, the dash light goes bright. +1 for the motive power bleeder, great product for bleeding the brake slave cylinders. use the universal adapter for 2.6" yellow topped master cylinders.

Thanks for the info. What's the part# for the EJ single piston rears?

The correct part is ACT470 (fronts, with ABS). Had to call Akebono to get it straight. This is for a '96 impreza OBS and probably back to '93. ACT563 is listed in the vendors parts catalog and on the Akebono website, but they won't fit (too big). Adding to the confusion is the ACT564 marking on the backing material. Parts are not mis-boxed like you might think, just wrong period. Pads are ceramic, come with grease, but no clips.