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keep a subie cool and she'll run a lot longer, dash gauge should run about 1/4 or so. Change out the radiator and cap for sure and while you are in there replace the thermostat, gasket, upper and lower rad hoses. If the coolant hasn't been changed a lot, use a drill pump and backflush the crud and old coolant from the cooling system, empty out the snot in the overflow tank and hose. use only distilled water ($1/gal at a grocery store) instead of normal tap water. good luck and hope she runs for many snowboard seasons up the pass, just don't work her too hard up those hills, lol.

Same deal down here, plenty on the DC Craigslist which also searches the general VA/MD area. Take Amtrak and drive back! I've done it up to NY no prob. Have an MTU reunion tomorrow, will have to mention the launching of that GL.

Welcome to the board. The tbelt change interval is 105k miles so at 126k who knows, it might be about to break. If any work was done at a dealer they should have records tracked to the VIN. This car is an interference engine so don't take chances, if records are not able to be found you should expect to do some front engine work (these cars are easy to work on in general). I would (if you end up buying) remove the radiator fans and outer belt covers and inspect the belt. There are procedures on belt replacement that a first timer can follow. Search around the board or post a question. The water pump and crank/cam seals are typically also replaced at this mileage. The 2.2L does not have head gasket issues as its heavyweight sister the 2.5L, but check the coolant overflow tank for anything suspicious. Rear diff being replaced at this low mileage is a sign that good tire hygiene may not have been followed, I've not heard of many of these being replaced even after 300k. To keep the AWD differentials from binding up, the circumference of the tires should be kept within 1/4" all around.

welcome aboard, I'm from Rochester Hills living in MD now what are you looking at? subarus are a good choice where you are

auto or manual? manual trans and fwd diff share gear oil center diff is sealed, silicone oil rear diff is gear oil keep the tires the same size and brand, should be same circumference all around or the diffs bind up '95 is a 2.2L, non-interference engine, your friend got a good deal

welcome to the board, your car looks all too familiar to one of mine, got you beat on rust though

c'mere horsie sorry for the re-beating For a second opinion, forget the tbelt marks...if you haven't already you should count teeth (twice spaced by an overnight, and once every 10 posts hereafter ) right side cam to crank is 44 teeth left side cam to crank is 40.5 teeth Don't take my word on these values, doublecheck the endwrench guide.

plant sprayer with water, see if the noise changes by isolating sources or turn the radio up and drive on until it seizes, then you'll know for sure

Solved 3 ohm test resistor across PINK and GRN wires Leave GRN/WHT disconnected (its a circuit that checks for shorts in the cable) Turn key, red Airbag dash light goes out after 8 sec Yellow SRS connector (chopped out in this case) with green button is a safety circuit (has spring contacts that close when demated to short inflater circuit and short one pole of inflator to GRN/WHT wire - short checker), button must be pushed in after mating to open internal contacts.

New info Car running, values to body: PINK 13.8V GRN 1.8Mohm GRN/WHT 1.8kohm Car OFF, values to body: GRN 0.7kohm GRN/WHT 1.8kohm YEL - YEL 2 ohms, no diode To spoof the SRS control box, I could put a 2 ohm load on the PINK to each of the green wires and see if the SRS light goes out, don't want to burn up the control box with a guess here though, or take apart another car to see how its wired. pics (ignore the bundle in the center, that's the radio wiring, look for the two yellow wires on the right, and the green/pink wires on the left behind the radio) http://s444.photobucket.com/albums/q...%20OBS%20EJ22/

Good call but they are not. I have GRN, GRN/WHT, PINK wire colors inside the yellow plastic conduit behind the radio and two YEL wires behind the glovebox going to what I believe is the pass side SRS inflater. I could guess which two wires of the three connect to the yellow wires, but a bad guess could be, uhh, explosive? I'll get out a meter and try to make the guess a bit smarter. Pay ~$30 for the FSM download and I still have to guess Thx for doublecheck on the lack of polarity.

'96 Impreza Outback Sport Trying to repair cut dash wiring after radio theft, and the FSM doesn't choose to specify pin numbers on the airbag control module and inflater connectors. Thought it was a typo (in the '96 FSM from STIS) so I went to the '95, its also missing, same with '97. In the case of the passenger inflater (two-wires) if polarity doesn't matter, then I can probably figure it out. Is the circuit a resistive ignitor for the gas pellet? I'm guessing its safe to put a meter on it...IF it takes battery voltage to inflate it

I checked with Captain Obvious, says loose connection. My 0.02 is on any recent electrical work done to the car...which I know you checked already...check again. Any corrosion eating its way under insulation? Anything you touched during recent work is worth a second look.

Just to try something different (in addition to good stuff above), if you push in the clutch to the floor, does the gravel noise change?

Thanks. I don't think 225's would fit on mine without burning rubber, that's 0.4" wider than the 205's. Reason for changing: The stock rims corrode pretty bad and the bead eventually leaks, the newer wheels don't appear to be coated so possibly salt doesn't work its way underneath and fester...just a guess and off topic

16x6.5 WRX wheels (offset 55mm) barely fit the '95 obw with Michelin Harmony 205/55R16. clearance to front strut 7/32" clearance to rear strut 1/4" Any issues with the tight clearance between the tire and the lower strut flange? stock wheels 16x6

Cam snap makes a unnerving popping sound, if the piston was in the timing belt change position you probably don't have a problem. if the '94 dohc is similar to the '97, left side intake (top) natural spin tendency is counterclockwise, exhaust (lower) spins clockwise. If they snap, you can spin them back the opposite way without problem to mount the belt. If the cams are forced past their free rest position it may be possible for valves to contact one another.

Subaru's are the worst cars, except for all the others. Like farms of old, the automobile has become the training vehicle for humility. The denizens of this site and its sisters have enabled the untrained masses to, horrors, maintain modern vehicles with unconventional methods and materials, for example my personal favorite rust-inhibitor, roof tar. Nothing against those who have real skills, but be cautious about leading us untalented folks astray. For example, a doctor might be convinced that sickness is the lot of mankind, but for all the well people outside the hospital seen on sabbatical. After practicing for a good while, the doctor and the mechanic begin to see common patterns of failure, each people group and machine model having its own characteristic special breed of brokenness. Skilled caretakers of broken people and machines should not say "it was better when" for this is folly. Let the wise become wiser still. Fight the good fight. Subaru still believes in mixing mud and engineering.

What tires fit on the '95 outback wagon without interference? Stock 195/60R15, offset 55mm Stock struts and brakes 205/55R16 2 mph low speedo 205/50R16 accurate speedo

Outback makes the top 10 best to insure

Harbor Freight has this one for not too much $$. Can't vouch for accuracy but I'd imagine a relative measurement would be helpful. 94190-0RHH Cylinder Leak-Down Tester Not sure why but the printed catalog sometimes has better prices than the website. Search around on the board for expected compression values.

True, compression (done warm) isn't a conclusive test, its a data point. Leak down would help diagnose if bad valves are suspected, won't run at all, etc. I was mainly thinking if there is a timing issue, however remote, it would show up in these tests.

Well, now you have a couple of spare IAC's. Unless a dyno is involved, power is rather subjective. I'm not trying to mask a real problem, but the ej22 isn't noteworthy at the low end in my experience. Low end torque began with the ej25, and with it the corresponding hassles, like interference. Of course with your low weight, this statement is probably irrelevant. I'm driving wagons. :-\ For the hard starting, have you checked compression or done a leak-down test?

My '95 OBW does the exact same thing. Locks randomly. So far it has never unlocked itself at random and always locks / unlocks when requested. I suspect the lock portion of the switch, but haven't ever taken it apart since its a minor inconvience. FWIW I recently took apart my '89 window switch to jury rig a broken part, and springs and teeny contacts flew everywhere. If you do dive into it, spread out a clean sheet over your work surface to catch the little buggers

Interesting thread. I just did belts on a car without the gasket on the bottom of the center cover, the only moisture issues I detected was surface rust on all the idlers. A bit of scotch brite took care of that in a hurry. Have to admit the idea of doing a 10 second idler and tooth inspection is attractive. Maybe hear a bad idler before it fails seized. Another thought is do the idlers run cooler without covers, and maybe run longer? Back on topic, you could use ultra black gasket, that doesn't 'flow' as much like epoxy before it cures.