89Ru

Battery sat during a month of many failure-to-start cranking cycles (took me that long to correctly diagnose the problem) so it could be just doing a deep charge...or could have plates shorted together? (batt is a discount-store special, two years old, no abuse other than recently) the load test is a good idea, I'll do it before doing something drastic

Just finished a major repair which involved alternator removal and when I started up the dash voltmeter is running low. Have read good posts that suggest replacing the body ground (all my wiring is original ) Meter across battery reads 13V at idle, goes up to 13.6 at 2000 rpm. Slight (0.15V) increase if I measure voltage at the alternator (battery terminal to alt body) My '89 GL had its alternator replaced 2 years ago w/o problems so far and I took measurements of 14.24 volts at idle so I'm suspicious here...the belt is good and tight (if anything its too tight so maybe the bearing is getting hot?) Is the alternator overloaded or is running hot 'normal' (too hot to touch after a few minutes of idle) My non-stock fuel pump may be a power hog but other than that nothing should load it badly. Might there be a marginal short that doesn't blow a fuse - would have to be only when running (switched relay or otherwise) since the battery isn't dead. I might try a clamp-on current meter if I can borrow one

Woohoo finally done with the belts change Didn't want to start and ran bad for a few minutes (good test of my motor mounts) but somehow the ECU got the vibrations out, I did a crude timing adjust by rotating the distributor but it ended up right where it started...can't find my timing light. So my crank angle module must be working? No codes while running. I am curious about how the engine would run if I pulled the crank angle connector...

A similar thing happened to my #1 plug although it took many many turns to remove the stripped plug with a breaker bar. I bought both a thread cleaner tool and the helicoil kit. Thread cleaner is a threaded bolt with divots that you can pack with grease to catch the filings. Use carb cleaner solvent with a toothbrush to clean the crud out. It has held for a year, probably time for a new plug if I can get it out... Haven't needed the helicoil kit...if you need it crank #1 to BDC (valves closed) and try filling the chamber with shaving cream to catch the chips and then crank again to pump them out (compression stroke) Make sure its not an exhaust stroke (valves open) Search for the firing order...can't remember

I think I should rename this thread...frontyard shadetree attempts timing belt job#1 Took me 7 (yes, seven ) leisurely hours to get the '89 GL plastic belt covers off and I'm only half way there- Yep, driver side belt was broke. The driver side cover was coated with a thick sludge so I'm glad it was there - I'm rethinking my idea of running bare belts. Thanks to Miles for the tip- after numerous failed attempts to lock the m/t flywheel, I tied a heavy rope between a passenger side oak tree (square) and a breaker bar on the 22 mm crankshaft pulley bolt. Bumped the starter twice and was able to unscrew the bolt by hand! Took out the passenger side fan and driver side fan housing. I didn't take out the radiator or A/C like Miles suggests- would have cut down on the overall hours if I did the radiator and water pump pulley first...lots of time spent on getting the last couple of top fasteners off the driver side cover, finally took off the p/s pulley which was easy enough (jam a screwdriver through the pulley to lock it first and then remove center nut). Don't do like I did and back off the water pump pulley LAST! Hold the pulley (driver fan) with a side wrench on the shaft and remove the four 10 mm nuts. next step, cam positioning: follow the procedure! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37951&referrerid=4725 ...Meanwhile, back to the original topic (crank angle sensor module) which got me started on this job I got a very helpful note from Larry at Forecast Products (mfr of the 7029 and 7030 in quantities of 50+): Although both units are 4 terminal, the best way to identify them is by looking at the bushing design. The 7029 has threaded through-bushings while the 7030’s are smooth. (Historically, the 7030 is the more popular of the two). You should be able to purchase these from your local retailer (AutoZone, O’Reilly’s, etc) under one of the following numbers: FTC7029 (unit with threaded through-bushings): BWD: ME570 NAPA: MP415 GP: 11-5109 NIE: WA933A SMP: LX-652 FTC7030 (unit with smooth through-bushings): BWD: ME571 NAPA: MP418 GP: 11-5110 NIE: WA933B SMP: LX-653 The bushings he mentions are the 3 brass bushings on the plastic encapsulated module itself...to see them you have to disassemble the distributor (use a vise with soft wood to lock the gear-shaft while you remove the center screw, the four-wire connector unplugs with a little encouragement) Of course if you are going to buy a new module you should consider Kerry at Rubuilders to do the whole distributor rebuild since the module is $$$.

Whoops, I got off on the wrong track. Distributor isn't the main problem, its the driver side timing belt! Must have broken or slipped (hitachi rotor isn't turning, why didn't I check this first?) It only had 55K on it... Never done these before. I have found some great posts on how to do it with pictures...looks like a lot of stuff may have to come out first (alternator, radiator, A/C) Car has 257K, should I do this? How many hours for a novice?

Correct, died while driving. Tach went to zero on the crest of the bridge. Thanks for the confirm on the wiring. I'd like to get a little deeper and dig into the part to replace the amplifier...I hate to throw things away...but that would be a research project (is it already?) I found a site that offers reman. distributors for 22100AA440, D4P86-03 www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders/ Oops forgot, this whole car is a research project

Glen, Reading dneufelds post has me wondering about my hookup He states "red power / black reference / white position / green ground" My hookup: red power / green reference / white position / black ground I base this on my FSM which says: GB power GY ref sign BW pos sign B ground I suppose '87 and '89 could have different wire colors...just wondering. The CAS was drawing 31 mA at 12V on red --> black Michael

Cougar, The reference is the larger spaces in the wheel, right. My voltmeter was wandering around in 0-200 mV on the ref signal no matter if I was turning the shaft or not, where the pos signal seemed to go up in voltage only when the shaft was turning... Regarding your 2nd question, according to the FSM procedure, I checked the body side of the CAS connector. Using the (-) battery terminal as a reference, I found good 12V, and 5V on the reference and position pins (pullups on logic inputs?), plus a good ground so I think the connections to the ECU are good. With the distributor sitting on a bench by itself, powered with 12V, while turning the shaft, I used an oscilloscope to look at the reference and position pins from the CAS. Voltage levels look rather low (4mV peak), these signals are referenced to the black wire (GND). I would think these should be logic (5V) signals...the pulses are there though...the position signal has a low frequency pulse upon which the 1 degree pulses appear, riding on top. The reference signal has a dip that I think marks one of the four wider slots on the wheel. I tried to add a pic of the scope screen, hope it works... hitachi_89_crank_angle_optical.bmp

Thanks, my transistor whatsiz (ignition pulse amplifier) is original so it could be bad...so is my coil (shhhhh!) Cougar I think you are right about the magnetic pickup being the wrong part...after checking for voltages on the crank angle sensor connector (they are ok) I took out the distributor and with a meter, checked the reference and position signals. As I turn the shaft, the position signal responds but the reference signal wanders around in voltage...which seems to match the code 11 (bad reference). I might check with an oscilloscope to verify this... Had to tow it on a flatbed...so its a lawn ornament until I can find a new distributor...no parts shops seem to have the sensor electronics as a replacement part... Vehicle registration stickers just came in the mail, good for two years...anyone think it will run again before they expire?

Here's a pic of p/n JA115, since I haven't torn into it I can't verify this is what I need... http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/227669.jpg Look right?

Thanks Cougar for the tips. I'll do it before anything drastic. Am having trouble finding the exact part match. BWD: CBE507 NAPA: TP120 GP: 10-5001 NIE: WA910 SMP: LX-515 WELLS: JA115 Crank angle sensor, 89 Hitachi distributor? Names, prices vary too, from $63 to $180.

Last night got a CEL over Severn River bridge. Lost power, coasted down under a streetlight. Same bridge where my hood flew up although this time eastbound. ECU says code 11, crank angle (no reference pulse) About a week ago I cleared codes so this is probably fresh. Do I have to pull the distributor to change this out or can I do this roadside? I have the FSM, page 6-1-27 shows a pic. I have until tonight before I'll need a tow...the 24 hour thing. 89 GL 3-door SPFI, optical distributor

Whoa, connected the white ones and the ECU had quite a story to tell, like it had bottled up years of memories without anyone to talk to...to me this sounds like "read memory" mode According to the FSM: Connecting green (test mode) connectors = D-check mode (fuel pump runs intermittently) Connecting white connectors = Read memory Connecting both green and white = clear memory (with engine on) Thanks for setting me straight on this.

Huh? Looked in the FSM and no mention of code 05...in both U-check mode (green connectors under hood unplugged) and D-check mode (green connectors plugged together) with ignition on (engine not running) I read five fast blinks on the ECU led, separated by a ~2 sec. gap. I read this as a '5', is this right? No slow blinks that would indicate a '10'... I got a CEL a week ago while driving at slow speed, but it went out quick...thats what started me on this...hasn't lit since. I wonder if this is a specification code, but I don't recall it ever indicating this code before... 89 GL 3-door dual range

Never thought of that. Such a good idea it deserves a bump. An old electric bathroom heater/blower with a windscreen works nice to cure underbody tar overnight at 30-ish. Never mind that its 70 degrees warmer here than in Alaska. Makes my fingers stiffen up, my mouth gets so cold that words can't get out.

'95 legacy has OBD II (verify sticker under hood). Subaru adopted the standard a year before they had to. You'll need a scan tool to read the codes. Search this board for scan tools, a variety of features (and prices!) are available. Codes are stored for 40 warmup cycles if CEL goes off so you don't need to be at the dealer when the problem occurs.

Be careful with your cooling system. Bubbles are bad. Here's an excellent post from setright Coolant Replacement, minus the big air pockets :-) Hiya everyone, maybe this write-up should be moved to the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual, but I thought I'd hit a bigger audience here. Having replaced coolant on my boxers many times, I have been searching for the right way to get all the old fluid out and getting as much new fluid in, without having to burp the system for a week after I'm done. I think I have finally cracked it! Draining Drain the radiator as far as possible with the little "faucett", and then detach the lower hose from the radiator. (If you are like me, replace any coolant hoses that you remove, and use stainless steel clamps on the new ones) Even more fluid will drain from the radiator, and some will drain from the engine block. Detach the upper hose from the radiator, and run clean water through the rad until it comes out of the bottom clear in color. Now, I do not contest that the best way to flush the engine block is by unscrewing the two drain plugs, but these are often seized and could turn into a source of trouble if you strip the threads or if they won't seal tight when you screw them back in. SO, I jack up the rear of the car until the engine block is tilting slight forward, ie. wheels about 6 inches off the ground, unscrew the thermostat housing, and let the old fluid run out through the thermostat opening. (Needless to say, I replace the thermostat gasket) Run clean water in through the upper hose until clear water comes out of the thermostat opening. Leave the car in this position until it stops dripping water. Remove the expansion tank and flush it, there will be plenty of "snot" in the bottom of it! Rinse the hose too. Install the tank again and fill to the FULL mark. Filling Close up the bottom end of the cooling system, ie. thermostat and lower hose. If possible, perform the next phase on a slight incline, car pointing upward. Get a funnel with about 10 inches of half-inch diameter hose on the end of it and slide this down the upper hose in toward the engine block. I do this because bending the upper rad hose causes it to collapse and that makes pouring coolant into it impossible. Pour your preferred coolant directly into the engine block. Pouring slowly, and pausing along the way will help keep air from being trapped inside the block. It should swallow at about two litres before it starts to rise and threaten to come out of the hose. At that point, attach the upper hose to the rad and continue to fill slowly through the rad cap hole. Once it seems full, start the engine, let it run for twenty seconds and shut it off again. This will dislodge the few air pockets that are unavoidable and the fluid level in the radiator should drop a little after the burp, top it off. Start the engine again, and let it run until the fluid rises and threatens to come out of the rad cap hole - and bleeder hole if you have one - and install the rad cap. Take the car for a shortish run, just a few miles to get it fully warmed up, and park it on level ground. Check hoses for leaks of course, and let it cool. This will take a number of hours, overnight is good. In the morning, note the level in the expansion tank, it will probably be a little lower than FULL. Fill to the FULL mark, and you're all set. Obviously, you should check the level in the expansion tank for a few days afterward, but there shouldn't be any problems. Resist the temptation to open the rad cap, this will only interfere.

Light should clear on its own, and with OBD II, memory of code(s) will clear after 40 warmup cycles. However, this is true ONLY IF the problem has been corrected. A scantool can clear the light.

www.asapmotors.com I had good results when I needed an EA82. Website says to call or send an email for a complete list of Legacy engines.

www.scantool.net For $100 you can get a little black box with two connectors (one for dash OBD II cable, one for RS-232) Black box (no display) puts out an RS-232 serial message that your PC or Palm can read (free software)

ASAP Motors (Texas) www.asapmotors.com I bought an EA82, put 50K on it over last two years, no problems. Shipping was around $75 to Maryland.

Solenoid is $85 at subaruparts.com in Tacoma WA. Don't even need a p/n, the nice folks there look it up for you, just fill in the online form.

P74028 fits in the stock location with some encouragement. By the way, both Morganm and Arch I think have installed 2P74028 inboard, which is better spacewise, but noisier. I installed the Napa pump P74028 ($100) using two stainless marine grade hose clamps plus the stock rubber shock mount (hammered to fit). The Napa pump is 2" diameter (bigger than stock and heavier). I chose to install it backwards because the outlet fitting is long and intruded into the body. Regarding the P74028 (may not apply to 2P74028)...in my opinion the shock mount is inadequate for this heavier pump and the backwards install may require tight bends in the lines. If I had to do this again I would search for a right angle mod for the outlet like on the stock pump to possibly avoid the backwards install. As mentioned, you'll also need some kind of fitting to adapt. I used a 1/2" to 3/8" hosebarb NPT fitting pair, 57001-0806 and 57002-0606 at cornerhardware.com to go from the fuel tank hose to the 5/16" inlet on the new pump. Use fuel-rated pipe dope on the brass NPT threads, plus marine clamps. I used more flexible 50psi 5/16" line for the inlet since the Napa EFI 5/16" line was so tight it wouldn't go past the third 3/8" barb.

When you say "EGR light" I'm assuming a lot: 1. CEL on 2. Trouble code 34 --> Failed EGR solenoid If you want to double check, to verify a bad EGR solenoid check the coil resistance by disconnecting the connector and ohming the contacts, a good coil reads about 35 ohms. Besides the tape trick, replacing the solenoid should clear the CEL by itself. Good post here on this subj, how to find EGR, etc.: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12057&highlight=solenoid+code Good luck