89Ru

Bella, Congratulations! Your English is far better than my Romanian. 89Ru

Unheard of! I have heard of rear coupe windows popping out but not this. Maybe the body was in severe flex like an extra fun ride or extended single point floor jack lift???

Bella, I accept Paypal. Or...contact my friend in Suceava. You pay him and I'll send the parts. My friend is a Christian. He speaks Romanian. Northguy/Seahag- if you are already sending parts to Bella I'll back off. Mike

For my fuel lines I found cheap brass fittings at cornerhardware.com (shipping costs far exceed the part cost but all the auto/hardware stores I looked at had a subset of what I wanted)

Chongo, Why does it need a new alternator? If you are like me, you want it replaced just because its old. I did mine at 200K for about $88 before a 1500 mile trip, but it wasn't showing any signs of needing it. I understand the strange affection that may convince you to spend a few bucks more than the car is 'worth' (what a willing buyer will pay to a willing seller), but doesn't take into account the value of the invested time and knowledge of the repair history of the machine. I have yet to see a Subaru die so I have no experience about when to make that decision. My first Sub is like yours but 3 years younger. It has been taking more encouragement to keep running lately, so rather than dumping it I bought another Subaru. What I would do is: Get the seals done so its not an oil spreader. Get the exhaust holes patched so it doesn't stink. Attach a CO detector to your visor. Run it until it dies a definitive death. What's up with Virginia inspection? Did you recently buy the car or is this an annual thing? Maryland has frequent exhaust emissions testing (and fortunately doesn't care about other emissions prone to Sub's). My wife has a brother that lives in Manassas that we visit here and there (90 min for me). If you part out your creampuff let me know. 89Ru

Not sure if you are talking about the damper attached to the fuel pump itself or the damper four inches down the line. If the damper on the pump itself is leaking, replace the whole pump. Don't know about your '93 but for my '89 GL, I could spend $200 for oem fitting pump at autopartsgiant #E8059 or the Napa pump like previous post. I just installed the Napa pump P74028 in the stock location using two 2.5" stainless marine grade hose clamps plus the stock rubber shock mount (hammered to fit), I had to put it in backwards cuz the brass outlet tube is long and not right-angle. The bad about the backwards thing is that now you'll have a lot of hose running to and fro that can rub and wear if not protected. The Napa pump is 2" diameter. If you go Napa, you'll also need some kind of fitting to adapt. I used a 1/2" to 3/8" hosebarb NPT fitting, 57001-0806 and 57002-0606 at cornerhardware.com to go from the fuel tank hose to the 5/16" inlet on the new pump. Use fuel-rated pipe dope on the brass NPT threads, plus marine clamps. I used more flexible 50psi 5/16" line for the inlet since the Napa EFI 5/16" line that I used was so tight it wouldn't go past the third 3/8" barb. If just the damper is leaking its $40 at subaruparts.com or go to the junkyard and pull a damper from the engine compartment after the fuel filter, plus one for spare. 89Ru

Cool field repair. Nice street light manuever. For a semi-related post-hijacking sad story read on (no field repair here) Cover kills belt? I was attempting to teach a friend how to drive stick and popped the clutch in my EA82 (why I don't exactly know)...lots of rattles and shakes later I had a broken belt and a broken oil pump pulley. When the covers were popped the mechanic found a washer inside one cover. Who knows if the washer somehow slipped in between the belt and cam. Needless to say my friend does not drive a stick Hijack#2. Seems like the consensus is replace belts at 30K? Mine go 60K+ 'cept when abused...I guess if I figgered out how to change them myself I'd do them early too.

I agree, changing the alternator is pretty easy for the average wrench turner. But, the one time I did it using a parts store type I had to encourage it to fit. The belt isn't as tight as I would like (can't tighten it any more since the bolt is up against the stop) but it has run for 20K miles without any trouble except a squeal lately when I turn on the heat...so I'm going to drop a belt size. As best as you can verify the new parts vs. the old, don't assume that the manufacturer designed the part to fit, or that the parts guys have the right information, or pull the right stuff from the shelf. 89Ru

Subaru's don't like to run hot. If your Leone is showing any signs of running hot, make this a priority to fix. The corrosive effects of water vs. radiator aluminum are pretty well established, hence all the anti-corrosion products out there. Running hot will accelerate the corrosive process. Of course, there are backflush kits that can be used to clean out the mineral buildup (don't know about rust though), but the one I used didn't work well long-term, the cap of the plastic "tee" that I put in with the kit eventually crumbled to pieces. After 100k miles, running the a/c would cause the temp needle to approach the red. When flushing didn't work, replacing the radiator corrected the problem. Use distilled water when you re-fill. 89Ru

From one newbie to another, welcome to the board. Long shot, but check to make sure that the distributor rotor is turning while you crank, if not could be broken timing belt 89Ru

Welcome to the board. My 89 GL used to do this about once a year at startup, then mysteriously run fine shortly afterward. The gear shift would shake at idle. There was a significant power loss. I figure after enough parts were changed I got rid of the problem. One time it didn't go away and it was determined that a timing belt had slipped a tooth. If you have an inductive pickup timing light you could check this. Ask for help on this if you need it. Have you noticed a loss in power? Maybe a cylinder isn't firing. How does the chugger idle? Try to pull plugs, one at a time. Wrap a rag around the rubber boot of the plug (with gloves on if the engine is hot) You might do a dry run to check for hand holds that aren't moving. If the engine dies down a little and runs rougher then that cylinder is getting spark and fuel. If there isn't a change, then go from there to figure out why (bad plug wire, bad plug, etc.) 89Ru

This is going into my 89 EA82 SPFI as soon as I get the right coupler (and the weather is nice Do you guys have new fuel tanks or clean tanks? I'm wondering if the high flow from this whizbang pump will stir up the crud in my original tank and clog the pump. To mate with the (12mm??) line from the tank, I've been around looking for a 1/2" to 5/16" brass hose barb coupler (high pressure air fitting), but nothing yet. Best I've found so far is a two-piece rig from home depot...a 1/2 hose barb to 3/8 NPT, and NPT to 3/8 hose barb. The 5/16 fuel line strains a lot on the 3/8 hose barb...might split eventually... cornerhardware.com has a lot of these fittings...but not much in 5/16" I also asked a couple of places for a coil clamp and they just stared at me. Might have to make one out of galvanized pipe hanger or ??? thanks for your help on this...looks like a solution might not be far off. 89Ru

Napa trip: bought the P74028 pump for $107 (local shop here doesn't carry the 2P74028, but napaonline.com does, for $66) Its made by Federal Mogul or Carter, can't figure which. Bought some 5/16 ID fuel-injection hoses, they don't fit tight like on my oem pump, the 5/16" hose on the pump is loose until it hits the seal flange. This pump's i/o isn't 1/4" by chance? The clamps that come with the pump are plastic, did you guys use a different hose clamp? My rustbucket pump is happy for now and gets me to work, but I'm keeping the new pump in the sparky blue rolling toolbox with a coat hanger just in case.

CHIM, I tried RedlineWeber and they referred me to Fast Freddy's at 800-821-2195. The 45 psi, 34 gph fuel pump with a 12 mm inlet is out of stock (this is the one I would need) and the same with a 15 mm inlet is $175. Thanks for the referral. Maybe some other folks can use it if they have stock later. Mike

Archemitis, Thanks for the napa info. $40 beats paying 200+ for the stock pump (Airtex E8059 from autopartsgiant). If I go with the napa pump I'll need 2 clamps and a coupling to go from the 1/2" ID of the gas tank hose to the 5/16" ID? of the napa pump...maybe napa sells these too. What did you use for the coupler? Brass? Nylon? Hose barb? I hadn't thought of mounting it inside the cab. I'm not really serious about mounting it inside, but if I was I would need a lot of help in the form of this barrage of questions... Where do you mount it? Under the rear seat? I'm curious about how to run the fuel lines...from the tank through an existing port, I see that the electrical goes through a rubber seal... How to get thru the firewall to the fuel filter? Do you run hard lines inside or soft? I'll go to Napa tomorrow a.m. and see what they have. Mike

thanks calebz, I won't bother trying Anyone know of a substitute pump, 35-50 psi with any kind of inlet and 5/16 outlet? The funny thing is the low pressure inlet of my stock pump looks like aluminum and is clean as the day it was installed, the outlet is as rusty as can be but still holds pressure. I'm developing a sincere appreciation for undercoat. I need a pair of rust colored goggles for working underneath. Or like my friend Andy says, "Can't see it from my house." 89Ru

Finally getting to this...my 89 pump is still working but probably won't last the winter...sooooo...I ordered a new pump but they don't carry the python injection pump that I ordered so instead they sent an oem Kyosan 84 brat pump (a more expensive and better quality pump but......) my guess is its not high pressure for EFI so it won't work. Has anyone tried this? I just installed the thing but haven't wired the electrical...I have to cut the connector to spice in my oem plug...too bad if it won't work, I'll baby the rusty pump back in and try again...this is my daily driver, learned lots about fuel lines in the process but I wish i didn't have to repeat it with a new pump... Does anyone know the hose ID on the inlet to the 89 fuel pump? It looks like 1/2 or 7/16, local autoshop doesn't carry anything bigger than 3/8. Outlet is 5/16. Mike

Francis, On my 89 EA82, I follow the radiator hose to the t-stat, then at a 45 towards the SPFI throttle body is the EGR solenoid valve. Its not the solenoid valve that is towards the firewall directly behind the t-stat although the two look suspiciously alike (rubber hoses, electric, and little black knobby thing). EGR is exhaust gas recirculation which I think ports exhaust back to the intake to be re-burned, so check the hoses to make sure. Mike

hey roxtar, I have a love hate thing going with my Ru, I love it when it runs. My '89 mostly runs except when I try to fix something and end up making it worse- my preventative maintenance often ends up being more practice at repair work. This is ok since I punch a keyboard most of the day I don't consider myself qualified to repair the thing but it runs despite my gorilla methods. Sounds like a lot of stuff broke at once. Makes for an easier decision...seems like about once a month my '89 (250k+) needs a 'shiny new part' like I tell my wife. What's up with your spark plugs? Can you clean the threads with a thread chaser tool or is it beyond that? There are repair kits with helicoils that can be used (can't say I know how exactly) but I'm sure folks on this site have done it. Whatever you do I hope it works out.

Morgan's pump works on his 'roo, can't argue with success and the price and stock mount is great, but...for another try autopartsgiant.com, they have several pumps for the '86 EA82T starting at $96 I have one on order (Python Injection) 'cause the 'thing' (strainer, whatever) looks like it could blow any day now, but can't testify that it works yet or will even fit in the stock location 89Ru

whoops, doh! just re-read your post. What I was describing was the 'thing' several inches in the line after the fuel pump, but duh you were asking about a gizmo on the fuel pump itself. Sorry, don't know! I wondered that myself!

Ha Ha I have just had lots of fun with this 'thing' it has many names but according to the FSM its a 'damper' Mine just recently started leaking (a few recent posts to this effect). I dissected it and found a spring inside with an equatorial diaphragm, its some kind of pressure damping device, perhaps to compensate for the fuel pump? 89Ru

I also recently noticed the 'compost pile' accumulation in the door-side wheelwells of my '89 3-door, probably from parking under a tree for years. Mine was so thick that after I stopped whining I had to remove the plastic guard and hose it out. Sorry to say but for me, anything less than a rustectomy will eventually come back. For the bubbly type of surface body cancer, I have done anything from grinding down to bare metal with metal bits, wire brushes, nylon brushes, sanding discs, etc. The rust pits are the hardest to grind. To eat away what the grinding doesn't, I use 'Metal Treat' which is a greenish phosphoric acid solution, diluted 7:1, that does a fine job of chemically converting the rust to a paintable surface and prevents flash rust from forming. Its kind of nasty stuff but it works. Use gloves. Then prime and paint. I usually spend 10x grinding and 1x treating. If you can't get to bare metal this time don't worry, you'll get to repeat it all again next year For the kind of cancer that is so advanced that it has left just rusty metal and holes, the above will not work by itself. Use fiberglass epoxy and move to Arizona. hope this helps, 89Ru

back on the road again and not spreading fuel, thanks morgan there was a pinhole leak in the damper so I replaced it (oem $40 thx to subaruparts.com, too bad the jy isn't closer) instead of using a straight pipe, in retrospect now I won't worry about pressure spikes from the pump punching holes in the hard lines. too bad the damper wasn't stainless like the oem clamps, they are in perfect condition. nitrile gloves were a must since the leaking fuel turned the undercoat into tar mush. the fuel pump itself looks pretty rusty, so its going to be replaced, thanks to whoever posted the source ($98 + 45 core at autopartsgiant.com) it didn't leak as much as I expected, I clamped the fat inlet hose to the fp after cranking it w/o the fp electrical plug, clumsy me broke 2 of the 3 ten mm bolts that secure the fp plate to the underbody. so i'm back to running with a c-clamp for now, anyone recommend a good rust dissolver? I have heard of Kroil...time for a trip to Napa thx again, 89Ru

My UFO (unidentified fuel-line object) is leaking in my 89GL. Searching the depths of knowledge on this site tells me that its probably one of three rusty ravioli-sized fuel pressure dampers, this one being forward of the fuel pump on the rhs. General consensus is to chop it out and connect the gap with new hose. I'm a firsty at repairing fuel leaks . At first glance, all the fittings down there look rusty. What else do I need besides 3/8" I.D. hose? Nylon couplers vs. copper tubing, hose clamps? My fuel filter has smooth metal fittings with flared ends to retain the hose clamp so this is probably best. I tried NAPA but all I found specific to fuel was hose. Where to buy this stuff? Clamps to pinch off the lines? I have SPFI so its higher pressure than carb'd. Some folks say to disconnect the electrical from the fuel pump and crank to drop the pressure in the lines. 89GL