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on my '95 wagon the snap ring is visible in the knuckle only when the hub is pressed out, it sits behind the outer wb seal against the outer wb race. to press the wb out of the knuckle the snap ring has to come out first. since it takes tons of force to remove the bearing, perhaps the snap ring is an extra measure of safety but i wouldn't leave it out. if the new wb isn't pressed in far enough, the snap ring slot may be partially covered up.

what it seems like they are doing is making a 25% overlap front-end collision be more energy deflecting than energy absorbing through crumpled metal. notice how the firewall is angled much like the blue deflector shield, so the deflector is an additional shield put forward of the tire added to the firewall deflector behind the tire, both protecting the driver. in either case the crumple zone does not appear to enter the cabin so the driver's left foot isn't injured. i wonder at what speed the deflector prevents cabin intrusion. the deflector will cause a sharp twist in the car's direction, which could cause injury (spinal rotation) however its unclear to my non-German speaking brain whether the unmodified cars have less or more twisting forces on the occupants.

Interesting article. It suggests that higher end pads can deposit material unevenly onto rotors. The rotor is not really warped, it just has uneven pad material stuck to it (they call it pad-imprinting). If not corrected, the pad material can morph into something hard, baked on, that only gets worse. The article suggests that changing out pads to semi-mets can fix the problem if its not too far along. It also suggests a bed-in procedure to help avoid the problem in the first place. Some pads are sold "burned in." I think this might be the same as "bed-in." It seems like this is only half the solution since a properly bed-in rotor has a thin layer of pad material evenly deposited on it. Perhaps pads and rotors could be sold together, already bed-in, but that jacks up the cost, inventory, and if done after the point of sale, could delay the shipping time and is probably not the best idea. One solution is to learn how to bed-in a set of rotors and pads and have a back-up set of abrasive pads. Or just run abrasive pads in the first place and live with the dust and higher temperature fade (probably not advised for mountains or towing).

Depends on the frame of reference. I was used to Legacy road noise then I drove a '96 impreza 5-speed that had been broken into and dash components stolen. The noise from the transmission even at idle was noticeably louder. Then I realized the open dash port from the missing radio funneled gear train noise into the cabin. On the plus side I don't mind not having layers upon layers of plastic, foam, and insulation to sift through in getting a radio out. I'm used to the whine in reverse, its like music.

could be the knock sensor. if you don't live near a place that could plug a reader into the OBD II port and read the code(s), check the knock sensor for cracks. if its cracked, replace it. less than $20 on amazon.

Goes out when cooled down, such as shut off for a while? Any code(s) or just a light? Other symptoms...what car, etc.

http://opposedforces.com you can find all subarus that use your pump

Gloyale: You caught me. Here's the earlier version from 1992. ALT-1 circuit is the same as you said.

yes, disconnect from the alternator and run a wire to the (-) battery terminal. my diagram shows a black/white wire for some reason for the ALT-1 wire at the alternator connector. solid white wire is tied to ALT output, don't use that wire. with ignition on (car not running) you should have 12 volts on that wire before grounding it. if you don't, there are problems upstream. in that case, check SBF's 3,4,5 in the main fuse box under the hood. this will test a few things. 1. battery is supplying voltage via fuse #15 to the charge lamp in the dash 2. charge lamp and wiring is good all the way to the alternator 3. 45 amp fuses are good upstream towards the battery these drawings are from 1997 EJ but the ALT-1 wire colors are the same as 1992.

Dave: Open the pod bay doors, HAL. HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that. Assuming all your doors locked. On my 95 lego the driver's side lock lever sometimes short circuits and locks all the other doors, but the DS stays unlocked. Its never happened but if the DS was locked and another door was unlocked I suppose I could be screwed if the short happened. Sometimes I can wiggle the DS lock and cause it to happen. I think taking the DS lock apart might reveal a flaky component.

welcome to the board. vibrations can be tricky. can you locate it? any noise with it? drums in the rear or rotors all around? any change with braking? sometimes a brake can hang up and overheat the rotor, causing a warp. brake might smell like its burning. handheld IR temp gun can help troubleshoot this or just feel the rotor. still could be a tire. missing weight? any movement with it? recent posts have been about suspension oddities in the rear.

Didn't know that. Looking through wiring diagrams from 1992 legacy. Alternator charge output and battery positive are connected through fusible link. ALT-1 trace goes from the alternator to the dash CHARGE lamp and is fused to battery via the ignition switch. This makes sense, there is feedback to perhaps regulate the battery charging rate. So if the bulb is burned out no alternator output. Is this the same for newer designs? There is also an ALT-2 trace that goes...not sure where.

what are you driving? sounds like you are on the second alternator already. aftermarket alternator? search the board for a subaru remanufactured alternator if you need to replace it again. should be a direct connection to the battery from the alternator (through a fusible link). you can check voltages at the alternator also. how new is the battery? if more than 5-6 years replace it. problems with the battery could lead to alternator failures.

so it will start, idle, increase rpm at idle, shift into gear, then stall under load (no power). correct? how does it sound during above events? idle rpm? rough idle? do you have to hold the throttle to keep it running? common things occur commonly, its likely to be a hose as already said. there are hoses underneath the main air intake that like to pop off if flexed. any electrical connectors removed? the resonator on the air intake likes to pop off (the odd-angled go-nowhere tube). other things it could be but most likely isn't fuel filter timing exhaust restriction fuel pump

or use bolts from the boneyard

I can't speak for iridiums. Perhaps they are better than platinums. I have not been impressed with platinum plugs in the EJ22 (not OEM) OR double platinums in the EJ25D (OEM). They wear unevenly and after 80km they should be inspected if not sooner. I have seen coppers go 120km and still be evenly worn (EJ22). I think the advice I have been given to stick with copper makes sense, they are cheap and just replace them after 50km. Several recent posts on this subject. Yes all these mileages are in km's not miles. Its been a while since I have seen the southern cross...hope to get back in the southern hemisphere soon.

it does sound like its coming from under the tb covers, a hollow sound. Put your hand on the outer tb covers, see if you can feel where the vibration is biggest, then dive under the cover and take a look. if the noise follows the belt, it may go away once the covers are off. if the noise is a piece of belt flaying off, you'll see it while one cover is off while running. or just spin the crankshaft (22 mm bolt) with the car in neutral. removing accessory belt covers make it easier to do this. some cars have small ports in the covers that can be taken off to see the belt. outer tb covers come off with three bolts each, 10 mm socket. take them off slowly, they can seize and spin out the captive nut in the rear cover. center tb cover takes more work (crank pulley has to come off). how many miles since the tb was replaced? assuming there is no rubbing on the accessory belt covers? (which can be taken off and kept off by removing 10 mm bolts plus one 12 mm on the alternator) alt and p/s belt are tensioned by the alternator pivoting (separate bolt). a/c belt is tensioned by the pulley next to the crank pulley. both belts are independent and driven by the crank if you suspect the a/c clutch, you could cut the a/c belt off. if the a/c belt fails, its not a big deal unless the alt and p/s belt get hung up by a loose belt flopping around...

I removed the rubber boot in the spark plug socket and taped the bits together. Easy to wiggle down onto the plug and no worries about leaving any bits behind to fish out. Next time I think I'll keep the rubber insert in...left the plug a couple of times when it was almost all the way out (preventing the assembly from being wiggled back into the hole) and then had to untape, disassemble, and then insert pieces and reassemble in the hole...need the hands of a surgeon to do that well rather than my stiff thumbs. spark plug socket --> universal --> 1.5" extension --> driver = 5.7" just enough the clear the head. One good reason for doing the job from the top. Cold stiff hands drop stuff, no big deal. Dropped wrenches underneath can land on your...face

that could explain it but it doesn't appear to be oil fouled. forgot to mention this is a JDM engine so its probably got 100k on the clock by now. I'm going to replace the plug wires, two of the jackets have nicks but it doesn't look like any burn through. here's a pic, sorry for being confusing about the arcing issue. top to bottom cylinders are 3,1,2,4. cylinder 1 plug seems to be arcing on the insulator?

Well #4 was a pain to get out from underneath. #2 and #4 are both NGK PFR6B-11. #4 gap 1.7mm severely worn center electrode #2 gap 1.2mm rain tomorrow, have to get this done.

'97 outback EJ25D, 220k miles (edit: 100k on jdm engine) guess at around 50k miles since last plug change. Figured it was time to take a look at plugs. Pulled #1 and #3. They are different... #1 PFR6B11 #3 BKR5EGP Not only are the plugs different, note different heat range (#1 has the '6' hotness and has buildup on the ceramic)...they are fairly equally gapped to around 1.4-1.5mm Anyone running mismatched plugs to maybe deal with the wasted spark uneven wear on platinum plugs? When I first bought the car it had misfires that got worse when it was wet and going down hills with no throttle at highway speeds. Haven't had a misfire in a while. #1 plug socket on the coilpack is pretty corroded (carbon arc damage) but the metal contact seems fine. Edit: Misfires may be phantoms...car doesn't stumble, the only way to tell is the CEL. #1 plug has arc damage on the ceramic insulator. This might mean a new set of plug wires or will a dab of dielectric grease help this? BTW it isn't too bad to get these plugs out from underneath with the front end jacked up. For installation I think I'll try feeding them in snugged on a scrap 5/16" fuel line. My owner's manual says to use PFR5B-11. I have a set on hand. I think running hotter plugs will clear the buildup on the #1 plug and may help the misfire issues.

Well this is turning out to be a hijack of my own thread. Thanks for the idea. Engine is currently being treated with second seafoam treatment in the crankcase. I'm driving it around this time keeping rpm's low, have about 60 miles so far. Results have been, well....inconclusive. Rough idle comes and goes which I presume means I'm losing compression again in #4. Today I tried seafoam in the intake through the PCV valve. There sure is a lot of conflicting information on youtube how to do this. Don't use the brake booster hose, car runs like crap with this disconnected and flow appears to favor #4 cylinder (might be good for crud in #4?) but first time I would rather balance out the cleaning for all four. Maybe this vacuum plumbing has something to do with #4 having issues...cylinder runs at a different temperature and crud builds up? doubtful otherwise it would be more common... whether right or wrong, here's my procedure: measure 1/3 can of seafoam, nicely fits into a clean 5.5 oz. cat food can with engine warm, running, disconnect pcv hose attach old heater bypass hose to pcv with funnel increase rpm to 1500 while SLOWLY pouring seafoam into funnel (first time I dribbled a little into the funnel at idle, engine quit hence the increased rpm, hydrolocked? started right up though...) smoke should appear from TP shut engine off for 5 min restart and run at 1500 or so until tailpipe blows clear intake treatment did not improve idle, in fact, when running at 1500 unloaded something seems to slightly labor the engine by a couple hundred rpm every few seconds. I'll look into the auto-rx. its good to have options. haven't tried MMO yet either.

Naah, I think I'll dump a can of red bull in there and see what happens. Going to change my name to Inspector Clusoe. Just kidding, I think another round of seafoam is in order

Idled for 2 hours in the driveway with 1/2 a can of seafoam in the oil. New compression (done cold) numbers are: before --> after seafoam 1: 200 --> 200 2: 180 --> 185 3: 205 --> 205 4: 90 --> 160 Starting is back to normal, without the periodic skipping cough. Idle smoothed out a LOT after 30 minutes at idle and after 2 hours seems normal. Hard to believe (that's my Eeyore coming out). Going to run it some more and then change oil.

ahh...the subaru virgin switch, no worries, we've all done it