Turboturd

Yeah I agree, scoops don't really fit on these. I would love to do the waic but my engine bay is already pretty crowded, and so far the intercooler seems to be getting cooler air and in traffic it has to relieve some under hood heat.

It feels like my GL-10 is fast in fwd with a stock ej20g, I can't imagine how fast yours feels with proper suspension to handle it, ha. Looks fantastic!!

I searched for this a little bit before hand, and have seen some hood scoops on older subarus and have never been a fan of scoops on these. My car has a ej20g and the intercooler has no where to pull air from, so instead of investing money in getting my WAIC going I spent $15 on a scoop from a 89 legacy sport sedan and cut 4" out of the center to fit between the hump. I thought it turned out pretty well, but if I ever grow to hate it holds are cheap, ha.

My poor little gl-10 is powered by a ej20g, now I'm really interested to see where it stand with the stock motor. I'll try and have a video of the whole ordeal when it happens.

All my plugs are rectangle. It's a 86 orange digital dash, I know the older digital dash's had the round connectors.

If someone has the time could I please either get a picture of the diagram, or if there are people out there with pictures of the plugs with the blk/ylw and wht/ylw that would be awesome!

Does it happen to show you which plug, or even more specifically which pin? Thanks for the response by the way.

I just finished the ej swap in my car to the point where it's on the road, the temp gauge I've just put in an aftermarket, but the fuel gauge is much more important. I know the gauge was working prior to finishing the swap. I've checked the resistance at the sender and it seems proper, I've replaced the connection at the sender because of corrosion, and at the corner of the trunk, from there the wires change color and I loose them. Does anyone know locations of the sender wire either at the glove box connections, or at the gauge itself? I've searched and can't find a pin out, and don't have access to the fsm. Any help would be appreciated, thanks a lot.

I was able to heat the point where the 45 went into the radiator itself and turn it to line up with the ej engine. So far 1k miles and no leaks from it. In hindsight it might be better to bring it to someone capable of re-soldering it.

One of my buddies has one. The forum for the justy is on proboards if I remember correctly. A lot of info there.

There's the grounds on the intake manifold driver side, it's part of the engine harness. Besides that check to make sure every sensor is plugged in, considering it was running previous to pulling it's not like you should have a dead injector or anything severe in-between.

Is the pump running when cranking?

It been covered a lot. But more recent it's been discovered that calipers from the mid 80's accords work.

Yeah I connected it to what my Haynes manual says is the vss, I haven't driven it since I have connected it, so I have no idea if it is connected correctly. Would the vss affect running at idle? Thanks for all the help btw.

Trust me when I tell you I've gone through the grounds, there's a ground from the battery to body, intake manifold, and starter mount. I'm still gonna keep checking grounds, but so far all the sensors I've checked have very good grounds and I understand how hard helping over the Internet is. I understand your assumptionins with me not using an o-scope yet, but I was really hoping it was something I have been overlooking. I've been working on this for a while, so I start to overthink the smallest problems. I'll check the outputs and see what I find, thanks.

I'll check the harness tomorrow and make sure it's all good at least from the cam and crank. Is the only ground for these harness' the engine ground? I have that pretty well covered as it has a ground going from that straight to the battery. Is here no specific grounds for the ecu itself?

So I've been slowly chasing down problems in my ej20g swap. This last one is sorta stumping me. The computer flashes code 11 and won't leave limp mode. It won't rev easily,I've replaced the cam and crank from a junkyard car both measuring within spec on my ohm meter, I just checked the timing belt again and it appears to be correct. Does anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing this hesitation and limp mode? I'm gonna roatate the engine tomorrow and read the ac voltage, but that's about the last thing I can think to do.

Makes me wanna finish mine. Buying a LGT slowed the progress down.

The fuel pump primes and runs during starting. I haven't checked fuel pressure yet. I would need to buy a gauge for that which I might have to. The injectors is what i really think might be the problem, which could also be the cam or crank not working. Ive gone through my connection a lot, but I think testing both of these should be my next step.

I just got to the point where I can try and start my engine. I can get the engine to run if i spray starter fluid into the intake. So I have a good feeling it might be the injectors. Is there a safe mode that cuts power to the injectors? Any way you guys know to test the circuit?

It was the EA82t that came in it. Would the cruise control have any affect on the length? I guess Ill go to the junkyard and find a longer cable. Thanks for the replys though, I'm very excited to drive the car.

So I just finished dropping the ej engine into my GL-10 turbo, and one of teh problems I can see is the throttle cable doesn't fit. I feel I've read through Numbchux write-up enough, and haven't seen anyone else with this problem post it up. Is there another subaru with a longer thorttle cable? Pic for fun.

I know pulling out of parallel parking is super fun/scary in RHD cars. Looks really good, I'm a fan of battleship engine bays.

So I've been searching for a Subaru I've wanted for a while. I was about to bite the bullet and get a 05+ LGT, but than my friends mom gave me this beast. 86 GL-10 Turbo You can also see my CRX in there. Another project thats nearing an end, so might as well keep myself occupied. The engine is bad, It drinks up all the water I give it, and from what I read the 82t has common head cracking, and HG problems? I plan to just buy another 82t for winter to get it going, I don't need anything fast. I know about the EJ swaps, but don't wanna spend the money as of now. I love the look, being an 80's fan with my old 85 Corolla GT-S, and my current 88 CRX.