[HTi]Johnson

You can manage to turbo that. It's not much different than people using a spfi block for a turbo.

The tranny has a bell housing. The engine has the other half. If you look at it, you'll see where it splits in the middle. The engine side is the side that needs to be removed.

Thems some technical drawings:D

If you're proficient enough to setup and use a stand alone ECU, I have a megasquirt unit I can sell ya. This will alleviate the need for a MAF and open the engine up to more mods. Is the intake already on? With all the engine harness and wiring? If so, getting a stock ECU for what ever year range and wiring harness wouldn't be hard.

Do you think you need a whole bumper or did just the plastic get fubar'd? Check with a local auto body shop, they might be able to point you to an aftermarket parts supplier.

It sure beats the crap out of a 3at!!! You could take the bellhousing off the ea71 and bolt it to the ea81 engine. It won't be hard because you'll have the tranny out anyways. And it'll make changing the rear main seal WAY easy. Changing the rear main is a must because you already have it apart and it would 1 min to change. If you wait to change it, you have to remove the tranny and flywheel to get to it. You'll need the pedal assembly from the donor car too. But you need to find out if it will work since it's a ea71. Shifter components too and a way to plug some of the hole up where your shifter will be...like a piece of metal. Because the automatic shifter requires a bigger hole. I used a piece of sheet metal, caulked it and pop riveted it in place.

To add my 2 cents... You're car is in AWD with the lever down. All wheel's are powered. When you lift the lever up, it puts it into a lower range of AWD, lower gearing for...say climbing steep inclines. When you flip the diff lock, it splits the power %50 to the front wheels and %50 to the rear. Only use this on slippery surfaces like gravel, mud, snow. I'd be careful with the gravel part. If you use it on pavement, you can break some components of your drivetrain.

Well, depends on if you're buying the kit or building it? If you're just installing it you need: Floor Jack Jackstands Metric Socket set with socket Wrench Metric Box wrenches PB Blaster (just in case) Impact Wrench (can be done without, but makes it easier) Safety glasses (so crap doesn't fall in your eyes) Philips screw driver.... that's all I can think of right now. It's pretty basic stuff.

I hope not, I think Honda produces more cars than Subaru does. If there are the same amount of crapass Hondas as crapass Subarus, that means a higher ratio of Subarus are crapass. But, I know what you meant, (ratio wise) I figured I'd just add a pointless comment to a post that has gone way off point of the OP.

I would almost put money on them being the same as legacy's. It Subaru's economic style to make most parts interchangable, but you never know nowadays. EDIT: Yeah, I'd say they mount the same, but have different molding patterns.

You're gunna end up with the somewhere else! HAH, just kidding. Have you ever worked on a Honda? Let me tell you that after working on Subarus for years (a whole 5 of them ), I had to do some work on my GFs Honda, I wanted to shoot myself. The oil filter is on the BACK of the engine, closest to the firewall, above the exhaust. WTF. Then the thermostat can't be in the front of the engine, it's gotta be in the back too, almost completely underneath the intake. As for the original post: good find. are you going to use it as an EJ swap sooner or later?

When I install the kits, I extend the rear brake lines, because my lifts lower (lower: as in raise the body off of it) every rear end component except the mustache bar. I use a double female connector with a 4" extension brake line. I put the double female on the line coming out of the body, that goes into the soft line and then attach the extension, then put the extension in the soft line and attach the extension to the double female. As for the exhaust, you should be able to get away with having it mounted in the stock locations, as most of them are attached to the pieces that get lowered. You'll need gas lines, to be safe. Custom-ish radiator hoses (just have to find what fits), pitch stopper might need to be extended, steering shaft extended, and shifter(s) extended.

Forgot that part :-\

I can see a crappy voltage regulator spiking the amps, causing fuses to blow.

OBS = Outback Sedan OBW = Outback Wagon

The swap isn't too hard and a tranny can be had for under $100 if you know where to find one. I'd try some lucas gear oil additive...but it sounds like a synchro or a fork broke or jammed.

IED?

My car. First Subaru I've owned. 2wd. Photo taken with a disposable camera.

Still want that bumper...I can make a steel bumper look stock:banana:.

Yes, well, depends on what VW stuff you want. With these...from www.sjrlift.com

Report it stolen. Since you have have the title.

What are you putting it in?

Don't run complete ATF...maybe a half of a quart and the rest be gear oil. I think the nut on bottom is a 19mm or 22mm. Yeah, about the manuals having the dipstick. My friend has an automatic and the prior owner decided he should add some oil to the tranny...he put ATF in the diff oil spout.

Water pump isn't hard... the axle isn't much harder. I recommend replacing the timing belts with the water pump too. Here's a procedure from the USRM (ultimate Subaru repair manual) for the timing belts. Here's some info about axle removal.

Very good work. I can see it now. "Click here to buy your ready to drop in EJ conversion. Comes with Adapter plate, EJ, carburetor and installation manual." Great craftsmanship. How do you install the distributor?