[HTi]Johnson

I still don't understand why the fact that he is 19 has to be pointed out by calling him a "kid". I don't know what kind of "kid" life you had GD, but you shouldn't be so rude. It's people like you that drive away anyone that has a slight interest in something but maybe not all the "knowledge" of others. That's why this is called a forum...not an "Elite Subaru Master only club that kids aren't allowed in and any 'out there' idea is stupid and don't post it because you're age will invalidate ANYTHING that you ask or say." By you saying "Virtually worthless" it could be taken as "your time and effort is worthless". This kind of criticism doesn't get anything done or make anyone happy. I know better than to drop $7,000 into any car, but that's me. If someone has the money and time to do what ever they want to a car, let them be. Here's a definition of constructive critcism: Once you understand that, critique my post. My response to the original post: I think it's cool that you put the time and dedication into a vehicle, maybe you should keep it for yourself to show for your efforts. Other people may not want to pay that kind of money for a car, but, with the care that you have put into, it should show and maybe you can keep the car for years to come.

So is the steering wheel moving when this noise occurs...like with the noise. I'd check tie rods, ball joints,axle nuts, lug nuts, and the axles themselves to make sure they aren't going out/ hyperextended.

Any progress?

LOL I bet you 95% of those rigs had to be trailered in because they aren't close to street legal. Did you have to trailer your Subaru? Ok, like 75%.

Take the pulley off, I've only come acrossed the one's with the center nut (19mm head, I think), pull the seal off the shaft and take it to a bearing place or something like it...maybe you have more reliable autoparts stores than me down here.

Yeah, just last year, I kicked a 2000ish Corvette's butt. In the snow, but that's where it counts. Becuase going fast in a straight line is boring. It's about the terrain and practicality.

Could the timing have jumped? Or even the right side belt break? Happens sometimes and it will still run, because the left belt powers the cam that the disty is attached too. Does "wobble" when idling, like half of it is firing? Just my 2 cents.

That oil port on the ea82, I think that's just for the hydraulic lifters or for the cam case lubrication, does it need to be plugged? Great, like we need another thing to draw ea82 heads away from our stock piles...oh oh...Multiport heads on an ea81, you know turbo heads?

That's awesome. Beware that if the downpipe and turbo aren't secured to the tranny/ engine, the up-pipe will break right at the weld under the turbo plate. That's cool it;s on the road again.

Do it. I want to see this, it'll be inspiration to many if you can. EJ swapping is like throwing in the towel.

He's swapped turbos, same problem.

Any leak before the turbo, in the exhaust manifold, will make a weird noise, especially a crack in the pipe. The leak will also prevent the turbo from spooling to full boost. How's the catylitic convertor? Not clogged?

Granted, these are a new product. But if you read my prior post I said "going to release" HERE and HERE and HERE Want more? Gotta love Google Straight from the Subaru Global Webpage Here's an awesome movie of it

Shizzle....I don't know if the 81t and 82t are the same sensor. Not so "super quick" is it? Too bad...hope I helped.

I believe that is the temperature sender...for the temp guage, not the computer. best I can help ya. The number 2 is the sender. The Coolant temp sensor (CTS) is under the intake. Looks like this If you goto www.rockauto.com you can get the Genuine Subaru sensor for $19 and shipping.

By something else and bring the y pipe and the other part up to the counter...when they try to charge ya for it,tell them they can't legally sell this, but you'll pay a little extra for the other part.

Subaru is going to release a boxer diesel, if they haven't already. AS for a diesel in a Brat, I'd almost guarantee they'd be on this board if it was. That would be cool to have a diesel...Imagine the low end torque....but you'd probably have to redo the gearing in the gear box to accomendate the low power band of the diesel? Also, could it have been one of those VOlkswagon truck things...could look like a Brat to someone, especially a salesman?

No, it has two cams, yes, but it doesn't have 2 cams per head... hence dual over head cam. Just one cam per head. My outback has DOHC (4 cams), 2 per head.

May sound far fetched, but I'm thinking a grounding problem. Check your grounds, maybe add some more. How's the alternator?

I wasn't trying to put you above us or saying that you're better...just pointing out that having a shop is nice. No :Flame:from my camp. Why is it that almost all subaru owners have done extensive work on their vehicles in gravel? Is it because they leak?

Do you have an area you can plug a block heater into? Something like this?

For most people, it may not be a time/tools/or knowledge thing, but a nice, dry, and warm spot to work on the car in. I'm in a freezing shop. The only part of us you see is our face, the rest is covered in warm clothing. You're running around in a t-shirt. Hopefully we'll get our wood stove in soon. As for the rust work. That's awesome, I hope you inspire many people to restore their vehicles.

What is the timing set at? Should be 20 degrees btdc. With the two green connectors connected under the steering wheel. You never said anything about setting the ignition timing. Are all the plug wires in the right spot. (I like to think it's a simple fix). As for the oil pump seizing. Did it immediately stop running, I imagine it would, but you never know. Maybe some damage was done to the engine?

If I was going to be off road only, I'd use the $20 ones the original poster posted about. You should start another thread about these, as posting them on someone's thread who is trying to market these is kind of vain. Now, for on-road use, yes, CNC would be preferred, but as you'll find out, (I've said this before) there's a reason most of us drive these old Subarus, necessity. Most of us can't afford $100 a hub. Especially when you can almost get the whole impreza/xt6 conversion setup for that.

With all do respect, lifting Subarus and putting bigger wheels and tires on them isn't exactly keeping people safe. Bigger wheels/tires means more stopping power is needed and I don't think the Subaru Engineers designed the stock brake system (small rotors) to stop huge tires plus miscellaneous additions like bumpers. If you keep it off road, cool, but once you get on a road, you are putting others in danger. If you want to put it in that perspective. Also, I do have a lifted wagon that I do plan on putting bigger tires/wheels on and I don't plan on doing much with the brakes. I also understand that you don't think he should be marketing this for general sale. I agree, but, I'm not going to shoot him down and tell him that his idea is bad. But maybe suggest that he states "off road use only". Then maybe he can get some money together to get some of the correct tools and then he can make them more precisely. This board has been leaning to the "shoot the idea down" side than "Well, that sounds like a good idea but maybe you should start with..." Maybe you did mean that, but I inferred it otherwise.