[HTi]Johnson

Yeah, down with legacy's. They're a dime a dozen. Although I think a brat with a snow plow is more appropiate.

I know I'm no help, but Subaru actually marketed snow blades for ea81s. Someone will post the pictures.

That's why we lift our Subarus and put monstarus bumpers on them. As for the lap belt. It's good to have on, it'll stop you from sliding out from under the shoulder belt and being crammed under the dash board.(First hand firefighter experience). It'll probably lock up on you in an accident. Here's a test I thought of, put just the lap belt on and try to slide down off your seat, see how far you get...even without locking it up, it shouldn't be far.

I'm guessing fuel filter or fuel pump. You replace the fuel filter and it runs...it was probably clogged. But if it fixes the problem for a short period and it comes back, it's a sign of a weak pump. EDIT: Was the car running alright before this? Did you do any work to it?

Couldn't you get hoses to bypass the Pump? I can't remember if the pulley gets in the way of the rest of the routing. I think it does, if so, remove the pulley. I had a gl-10 that someone removed the pump on and didn't ever cap the lines going into the rack. I found this out when I had the engine out, so I just pinched the lines and called it good. Had no problems.

Well then, that could be a problem. Sounds like you need some PB blaster.

Next time let the Subaru back away from the attachment point?

Considering how I've been a welder for four + years I think I might be able to figure it out. I've made bumpers for Samurais and a rear bumper for a ea71 brat. Here's some lifts I've done: Those are all EA71 bodies with EA81 running gear. I think figuring out lifts takes a little more time than a bumper. I took offense to your words, I probably shouldn't have. I'll get more pictures and let people decide how my work is.

My friends and I are trying to tap into the Subaru market for custom products. I know there are a lot of other Fabricators out there, we're not trying to steal business, just tap the market that's close to the central-western Oregon area. We just did a 3 inch lift on caliplates subaru, he hasn't driven it yet, but he'll love it. We can do bumpers, roof racks, lifts, and almost anything you can think of. I don't have pictures of my products yet, but if you're interested, let me know, I'll send you a link to the webpage once we get it situated. I'm sure our prices will suprise you. Thanks for your interest, Justin. P.S. We're located in Coburg, Or. 2 hours south or Portland and 5 minutes north of Eugene. UPDATE: Here's our website, I know it's not much, but it's a start. Feel free to give suggestions. Head Trauma, inc.

Try that or if you're by yourself, you can grab the engine and wiggle it left and right (with it not running of course). Maybe the prior guy didn't tighten the nuts down on the mounts?

I'm working on a "budget lift". I have installed 4 lifts, 2 EA71 brats, 2 on EA81 wagons. All 4". The biggest thing to tackle is the front struts. The one's I've installed have been working fine...they've been through hell. Here's a couple Those are 30" tires.

The RX awd D/R is my goal, but, until I get one, I might just put my dual range in there and get another regular 3.9 diff.

I have a 1989 RX and I'm going to convert it to a manual. Is there anything I should know before, it has an automatic. I know about swapping the insides of the diff to a 3.9 setup, as I've done a conversion before, but not with a 4eat. Thanks.

It was overheated a couple times, that I know of. THe heads were flat when straight edged with a machinist's straight edge. I'm thinking it popped a HG again. Because when I would drive it cold and as it warmed up then started to overheat, the temp would climbed with how much I push the throttle in. Is there an easy way to do a comp test on these 2.5's? I know it was a pain to replace the spark plugs months back? Thanks for you time. Justin

Well, I elevated it and gave it water as needed. Then drove it around, still overheated. I've done every way of filling this thing up. Even what the owner's manual said to do...fill it up with the bleed screw out, put it together then start it and rev it at 2-3k for 5 mins. Then top off once cooled. Could it be the thermostat? It's only 3 months old, but it was in the car when it overheated the first time (leading to the HG replacement)? Could the extreme heat cause it to fail? Thanks, Justin.

Hello all. I don't have much time. My 1998 Outback (2.5 DOHC) is overheating. I just did the HGs, waterpump, thermostat, rear main, oil pan and the works. I filled the engine up with coolant through the upper coolant hose and then topped off the radiator with the bleeder screw out. It even has a new radiator cap. Then I "burped it". It'll be ok for a while, then over heats, I pull over, let it cool. Top off the coolant (doesn't take much) then go for 3 minutes, it over heats again. I'm not getting warm air out of the heater and the radiator is cool to the touch until I open the cap and release the pressure, then it gets hot. I used all Subaru parts for the recent HG job. What could this be? Do these blocks tend to crack from overheating (it was overheated before, that's why I did the HG job. I couldn't find any problems with the heads (pressure tested) and visual inspection of the block didn't warrant any worries) Could this be a clogged radiator? and if so, where could I find a dual core? Thanks for your time, Justin Johnson.

OK, so this oil seperator cover. If I called the dealer and say "I need an oil seperator cover." They'll know what I'm talking about? Looks like it is called a "Rear main seal retainer" HERE

Dunno, it'd be a small air leak, maybe enough to make it run slightly lean but not enough for no start. Oh don't worry about that, I have the engine pulled and tore down to the block. I know better than to do a half job only to turn around and do it again weeks later. If I straight edge the heads and block and it comes out fine, should I go with that, or have the heads pressure tested?

How could he find out if the tranny is 3.7 or 3.9?

Not to throw a stick in your spokes, but don't XT6 FTAWD trannies have 3.90 gearing? Or did I just hear that wrong sometime in my life?

It'll be a Head gasket problem if you bring it to the red zone for long. Do a compression test if you can. If it has good compression, this is what I'd do: -replace thermostat -replace thermoswitch for electric fan, or run a switch from the fan to the inside of car, so I can manually turn it on -Check timing (20'btdc with two green connectors under the dash connected) -Run actual antifreeze -If it still overheats, have the radiator tested. How does the radiator look by the way? Like wear and tear wise. Bad Compression numbers, you probably popped a head gasket or two. But with Subarus, it's usually the easiest fix. So easy, that we (Or at least I) tend to miss the solution because it's too easy.

Shouldn't have to take the clutch fan off. And there are two 12mm(the size of the head of the bolt) holding the radiator. Electric fans can stay on, but it may be easier to remove. Steps, that I can think of. -Drain Coolant -Undo upper and lower hoses at the engine(at least that's easiest for me) -Disconnect electric fan wire -Undo and plugged tranny lines (If it's an automatic) -Removed two bolts on top -Remove overfill tank line -Pull up, minding the clearance

Hello all. Saturday night I was driving down I-5 in my 1998 Outback DOHC. Cruising at 70 when I watched my temp start to climb, I started to pull over and then it went back down. So I kept going...for 10 seconds or so, then it rose, faster and higher, I immediately pulled over, as I pushed the clutch in, the engine died. So I'm on side of the road and a TON of smoke is coming out of the hood and I smell burnt oil, so the first thing I thought was I thrown a rod. I tried to start it (just to humor myself), it wouldn't start. So I had it towed to my work. In the daylight, I checked the oil, it was slightly below full..."That's weird." I thought. So I tried starting it, it wouldn't. Today, I pulled the engine and found the oil was coming from the rear main. I pulled the flywheel and noticed it wasn't coming from the seal, it was coming from the plastic piece to the right of the seal, this: I don't know why this warped and cracked, causing all the oil to spill out. But does anyone know where I can get one? Then I pulled the heads and found that the #3 cylinder had some HG failure, in the typical spot: bottom of the cylinder, into the coolant passge. The #1 had some HG failure, but not as bad. In the end, I'm asking what should I do? Just assume it was HG failure and reseal the engine and hope I'm right? Or does anyone know something I don't, or have any advice? I'm just puzzled from the engine not even trying to start. Thanks for your time. Justin Johnson

I'm thinking there might be a market for them....

Hello. I was wondering if the DOHC heads off my outback will fit a 2.5 block that originally was SOHC? Thanks for your time.