[HTi]Johnson

Isn't a RX a G56 in the vin and his is probably a G55?

I agree with the Aussy! But, we will add two pieces that go from the piece behind the diff up to the body, where the old torsion bar mounted. That'll add a lot of strength, plus, a friend told us that any impact that causes the diff to push the driveline into the tranny with break some of the 4wd components in the tranny.

The body mount, right?

I kinda follow. You think there should be something from the mounting point and either mounted towards the back or front of the vehicle?

Title asks it. I'm helping [HTi]Savage make a 4 inch lift for his Gen 1 Brat with Gen 2 drive gear. It's .120 steel tube, I think it should hold. I've seen less material take more abuse. I'm pretty confident as a 4 year iron worker, that it should take a beating.

I meant my thread. Not nipper's post. Sorry for taking it the wrong way nipper. It's all good.

On a loyale right? What I do it take the radiator out. Take the accessory belt off. Pull the timing belt covers. Set the engine to the middle cam timing mark. Take the pulley off. Take the timing belts off. (mark what way they are on, so you can put them on the same way, so the rotation is the same.) Take the pump off. I use a crescent wrench and put it on the rotor side of the pump (with a cloth around it) and use a 12mm wrench and take the nut off the shaft and then remove the shaft. Then remove the seals. Clean it up, a lot. Put the new seals in (mickey mouse, o-ring, and shaft seal. You can use a little anaerobic sealant to hold the mickey mouse gasket in place.) Then reverse the steps for installation. Hope this helps if at all.

No need to be rude about it. Yes I was talking about the decks. I wasn't talking about welding steel to aluminum...as far as I know, that's impossible. I was asking if it's worth it to weld aluminum to the cylinder and add stability. But forget I even asked. Mods, delete this post please.

Why do they fail? I know this has been asked a lot. I have read a lot of replies. Is it just the first DOHC version or did they fix it by closing fixing the Piston "Islands"...making it so it wasn't almost a solid coolant jacket around the cylinder? Some say it's because the only connection points for the cylinders were on the 3 and 9 o' clock positions. They say that the cylinder vibrate too much and cause the gasket to "wear" out. I guess my question is, would it be worth it to weld a piece of material so the cylinder is supported at the 12 and 6 position too? I've heard of a sand rail company that does that. They weld a piece in.

Don't forget to open the Air vent hole on the passenger's side of the radiator when you are filling it up. I forgot...caused a lot of problems with Air bubbles. I did it the way he described, by pulling the hose.

I'd think the engine is just an Engine. The OBD part is with the computer and electronic. Yes, there may be more holes for things like Knock Sensor and CTS or what ever. That's my 2 cents.

That's hella badass. The RX II must be our the same as a USDM RX?

Here they are I can mail ya two if you want. $3 for both including shipping.(That's breaking even)

So I have a 1998 OUtback Ltd. with the 2.5 DOHC. Is that the phase II and what is the usual gasket failure with these engines? I'm just going to reseal the whole engine....like: Head Gaskets Rear Main ALready did front cam and crank Valve covers Water Pump Oil Pan I've never done this job on an EJ. What should I know about these engines? Is there any tips/tricks I should know. I'm tired of not knowing the true condition of the engine, I bought this car a couple months ago and am starting to run into some problems like oil leak, overheating, and I just need to have a peace of mind.

Where do you bring all that junk? That would be fun/great thing to do, but paying to dump it, there's a reason someone brought it out there.

I highly doubt I had a bubble since I spent hours trying to bleed it out. I did it the same way this time as the last. I put the car on ramps so I could have the radiator the highest point. Then, I Took the upper hose off and filled it with water until it would flow out...then waited for it to settle. Once it wouldn't go down, I filled the radiator with coolant until it came out of the upper radiator port then I put the hose on and filled it until coolant came out of the air bleeder hole. P.S. The crappy stat I threw in had a air bleeder hole. Then, I filled the overflow. Thanks for the tip on removing the hose and filling it. That saved a lot of time. Justin.

HAH I'm just saying that, at least in Oregon, we have another thing going against us...hippies. They like their forests. But we also have another thing going for us: The fact that ORV has a decent chunk of the economy. There's a town called Florence, they have a population of 9000 and when labor day hits, over 12000 people are there for the ORV park called South Jetty. That's a pretty big chunk of business that would go down the drain if ORV was banned here.

Fuel filters! Fuel filters! Fuel filters! There's two of them, one in the engine bay and one by the fuel pump (in front of the rear passenger tire, above a protective plate. Replace them, you might be suprised. An 1981 wagon should have two right?

That's not a stupid question at all. A stupid question is "Why is my car overheating, even after I put a new, non-subaru thermostat in." That's prettymuch what I did. As for good gas mileage. I thought there's a lady on the board that was getting some great gas mileage in her ea82 wagon. bucky72 or something is her screen name.

OK. I just realized you asked if I was using an OEM, as in Subaru. No. I was stupid and when to the parts store and they gave me a brand called OEM. Literally GAVE me it, the guy got too frustrated with the scanner because it wasn't scanning the barcode. I should have known better . I made it into the dealer and got a real OEM thermostat, it's cured. Question: Do you think the first Subaru stat failed after I drained the coolant? If so, you think it's just a coincidence? So yeah, Subaru T-Stats a must. Thanks everyone for your brain power. Here's a for you all. -Justin

That's funny because that's what's pissing me off the most. He's just going to screw the tranny up when I could use it for my Automatic AWD RX, yeah I know, the worst of the bunch. That's why I'm pissed that he won't sell me the AWD. I offered to pay him for the tranny AND buy the Part Time 4wd tranny too. He's too stubborn and doesn't listen to what I Have to say, it takes a 3rd party for him to realize WTF is going on.

This is an argument my friend's and I are having. My friend has a RX that is in RWD. I give him a hard time because it should be AWD. I tell him to go get an old corolla or something. The other day they told me "We can't put a N/A ej25 in it, because it wouldn't be an RX without the turbo." What I'm getting at is, with something as Rare as an RX, he shouldn't defame it by RWD'ing it. I'm asking you guys/gals what you think of when you hear RX. When I hear it, I think of a three door (usually white) coupe that is turbo with an AWD tranny that has a diff lock and hi/lo. RX sedans don't count in this poll. Thanks!

I have some XT6 FSMs, but could the transmission chapters be useful?

could it be his ignition switch? You may have to jump the starter by putting a push button in. That's what the prior owner did with my old EA81.

The weber conversion manual says to use anaerobic sealant between the surfaces. As for the gasket...the paperish one should work.