[HTi]Johnson

Did it freeze with coolant in it? Check the heads and block for cracks and popped freeze plugs....once it's torn down.

Isn't the the right side, as seen from the driver's seat, look at the bell housing.

Yeah, especially nowadays, the whole car is a crumple zone. For every milisecond it takes energy to travel, say in a front end collision, through a car into the passenger compartment, the force (damage) drops exponentially. That reduces the energy you absorb. In every accident, there are three collisions...the car vs object, then your body vs car (Like your skull against windshield), then your internal organs vs you body (I.E. Brain against skull). So the goal is to have the car absorb/distribute the energy elsewhere. As a volunteer fire fighter, I've seen a wreck that should have been really bad, a car going 50+mph rear ended a semi trailer that was stopped. The car was obliterated, but once we cut the doors off, he just had a broken ankle (Probably because he was mashing the brake soo hard.).

Yeah, check grounds. Then check the ground on the CD deck. Maybe run it's own little ground wire from the deck body to the car body.

150k!:-\ If you're thinking maybe the water pump, I was thinking that. But why would it happen to fail right after a timing belt change. Damn it, I replaced all the seals but skipped the pump because I ...well, I don't know why.

I tried bleeding the system about 7 times. Even raised the front end and all. Here's what's going on: It will idle at normal temp. Then I drive it and it stays normal, then, about 3 or 4 miles, it starts to climb, kinda fast, then I coast, it'll drop a little. Then it goes to like 7/8 then down and kinda settles at 3/4, then goes back up...the thermostat is a 170 degree one. Could the timing be off? I rotate the engine and all the marks on the pulleys line up, perfect, but the belt marks are one tooth off to the left. But everytime I rotate it, the marks line up, the single marks are up, double marks line up.

Hello. I just found out that the driver's side of the radiator is cool while the passenger side is warm. And it will stay moderately cool if I don't "Get on it".

Update: I drove it for bout 3 miles, it held at normal temp. THen when I pulled around in my driveway, it started getting hot. And the heater got cooler...warm, but not as warm during the drive. Must just be more air. As for the thermostat, I put it with the "Bulb" towards the block. Like the one I removed was. Thanks for the help, I'll keep ya updated. Thanks, Justin.

Yea, the heater was cold until I got the air out...now it's blowing warm. New OEM T-stat too. The tensioner was fine.

1998 Outbck Ltd. Wagon 2.5 DOHC I searched this topic. I found that you need to bleed the air out with the air bleeder, I did that. (Yes, I made the mistake of pulling the rad to do the belts.) I opened the radiator cap and the bleeder, topped it off and started it. Then filled it as needed for about half hour, water started coming out of the air bleeder so I put it back together and test drove, it got really hot, so I went back and bled it again. The car will stay at normal temp while idling but wwhen I drive it, it warms. The fans are connected and working. The only thing that I can think of is: Is there a way to route the timing belt so the water pump isn't included and the car still runs fine? I don't think there is, but I'm lost to what it could be. Thanks, Justin P.S. I took the Radiator out because I had to take the Cam sprockets off, I did the front seals.

I can't say that I've heard of such a tool. Can you show pics or explain? Thanks, Justin.

Hello all. I have a 1998 Outback Ltd. Wagon. It has the 2.5l DOHC engine. I'm going to do the timing belt and front seals (front and the four cams) this weekend. ANy suggestions on what to do or not do. I'm paranoid about the cams spinning when the belt isn't on. Thanks. -Justin.

As for the nipple being "in front" of the TB, is that closest to the firewall? If so, that is for the automatic tranny. Don't have an auto? PLug it, it also makes a great spot to plumb your blow off valve.

I believe he is talking about his 1981 DL that he has listed under his "Vehicles". Did you plug the vaccuum lines?

The only 2 Part time dual range transmissons I had crapped out. The first one the ring and pinion gear ate each other up and the second one pops out of 4wd, anyone have an idea why?

I'm not defending anyone or sticking up for the other [HTi] guys, but under the "Subaru Motorsports" The sub-title is "Discuss off roading, rallying, racing your Subaru." If you want to teach these "Noobs" something, maybe this should be under off topic? I know they came in kinda hostile, but calling them "Noobs" isn't encouraging and saying "We are all in it to put a good name on the recreation." you may be putting your good name on recreation, but as for helping the "Name" of the USMB board, I am reminded of why I strayed away from this board.

Aren't EA82's easier to convert than ea81's? something about all the mounting bolt holes already being there?

If you are using a stock dual carb manifold, you will have to watch out for the intake bolts. They will be offset. But since your using a custom intake you shouldn't have a problem. Sorry, I guess this reply was pointless. I guess you can find out how much people have shaved off the heads, go with the most and do that to your block.

Hello all. My 1998 Outback Ltd. is throwing the inefficient catalyst code. What should I do? Replace the sensor(s) or cat? I don't really want to replace the cat, I want to delete it. And what could I do for exhaust, I want it to sound deeper but not obnoxious. Thanks all.

Actually, the new H6s do have timing chains. They used them so they can make the total length of the engine smaller. The chain is smaller that a belt.

Hello all, I just bought a 1998 Outback. I would like to do the timing belt on it. Do you have any suggestions on parts to use and anything else to do while in there. I was thinking of doing the: -Belt -Idlers -Seals -Water pump? -Oil Pump?(hahhah nevermind, that's not driven by the belt...I'm used to ea82s.) It has 146k miles. Thanks for your time, Justin.

Just one. I've seen it work like that before. Just not for me.

Ok. I had a terrible vibration coming from my front end, passenger side wheel area. So I replaced the bearings...nothing. So I took the halfshaft out and put in a stub to see if it was the axle (and why not, RWD could be fun). I went to move in RWD...and it just popped out under load. I have the lever ALL the way up in Low (Not in between Hi-lo.) and it pops. It pops out in hi 4wd too. I'm trying to figure out WTF is going on. Any ideas? EDIT: 5spd D/R not AWD. Thanks all, Justin. P.S. This is my first post on the .org site. Damn people and their greediness.

Check the vin. Here RX's have G56 in the vin like JF2AG56XXXXXXXXXX and the GLs that are pretty much an RX without a few things is G55. What's your vin say?

Before they lock it!! Ok you can lock it now