[HTi]Johnson

Looks like it should. Just as long as the oil in the air can "fall" out of the system. Much like an air/water seperator for air lines.

I recommend www.rockauto.com for the head gaskets...napa has an EA81 kit, I picked up for $80. Every engine seal. HGs, front and rear oil seal, oil pan, intake, valve cover, valve guides,carb...you name it. Good luck, Justin. EDIT: Fel Pro perma torques are my preference, but that's for EA82...it's a pain to retorque on ea82s!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=831&cat=527 THis is subaru_styles wagon, I believe he used an RX body kit.

What A-Holes. Hope you get it back soon and in no damage. Good luck, Justin.

Nice, as a Firefighter, I like the extinguisher (less work for us and less damage for you). As for the unsecured back tire, maybe a tow strap going acrossed the compartment to prevent that bad boy from taking someone's head off in a collision or more commonly, bouncing around on that hard rump roast trail.(I've learned that from first hand experience.) I like it though. Reminds me of my first subaru wagon Good Job, Justin. EDit: Not tow strap, but a tie down.

So no help needed?

What I'm going to do is trace the outline of the tranny and engine bell housing and the holes. then compare them.

Hello All. I have access to a 1990 Legacy with 215,000 miles. I can buy the whole car, running, looks nice. Would this be worth it to do an EJ swap? Oh yeah, I can pick it up for $300.

I believe you want the driver's side to be at 2 o clock and the passengers at 8 o clock. Straight outta Miles Fox's timing belt install manual.Find it here

You have more of a chance of being attacked by a shark than having your rings/main bearings/pistons be bad (and this is a record attack season)! No really, I doubt that the engine really needs the internals rebuilt. Especially at 80k. Just do the common reseal. If you don't do the rear and front main, you're gunna kick yourself because those take about 30 mins TOTAL (including flywheel/pressure plate removal). Compare that to having the rear seal go out once you get the engine back in. Who votes that he does the rear main seal!?

What about my friend's 1987 RX? It has dual range AWD 5speed. It was made in 01/87. Stock.

Dude I had a moss green 83 wagon, it was the shiz. Just wanted to say that.

How far into it doyou want to go? Head Gaskets (2) Intake Gaskets (2) Oil Pan (1) Oil Pump Reseal Kit (1) Valve Cover (2) Rear Main (1) Cam Seals (2) Front Main (1) Timing Belts (2) Timing Idlers (pulleys) (3) Valve stem seals (8) Here's a good place for the timing belt kit. What else?

I'd suggest getting the head gaskets from http://www.rockauto.com they are the felpro perma torque for $20 each. 9392PT is the part number. Don't forget the seals the go between the cam cas and the head. They look like this: Look here for all the parts that you want to get that don't need to be OEM. As for OEM parts, I have never used an OEM part. I've done HGs, Oil Pans, Valve covers, Intake, turbo, exhaust, oil pump reseal, you name it. I have never had a problem. This was all on my wagon that I put over 40k miles on after all the work, no leaks. Maybe I was lucky, or just did the install right.

My friend had bad play in his distributor that caused the rotor to hit the points in the cap and snap...it dislodged it and would let it "fire" at times. Maybe you ran out of gas? These gas gauges aren't the most reliable.

Ethanol needs 9:1 air ratio to be "efficient" and gas needs 14.7:1. That's the stoichiometric AFRs. So if your car thinks it's using gas, it's going to mix the ethanol at 14.7:1. As stated before, it'll make your car run lean unless you adjust for it. Carbs can re-jet, fuel injection ...well you gotta hack the computer or just Megasquirt it.

Datsun 510's ?

HAH HAH And you still choose to drive a justy! NICE! What's that saying about those other cars?! Nice work with the Justy. If I was you, I'd get full coverage insurance on that baby. I've heard too many stories about people busting their asses on restoring cars and then having some jackass crash into them, totalling the car, and the insurance only gives them the "Going Rate" of the car.

Is there any part of it sticking out? If so, I'd suggest trying to get it out that way.

Maybe a weak fuel pump. You said that you can go until you hit 35-40, maybe the fuel pump isn't filling the bowl up enough? Replacing the filter just reduced the stress on the fuel pump for a little while. That's my theory.

I believe carb blocks have higher compression, this may make it weaker. I do know that turbos have the lowest and SPFI I believe have the highest.

:headbang:

You'll need this when you put the timing belts back on. You should replace everything you can and can afford to. LIke clutch (if it's manual), rear main seal, front main seal, cam seals, oil pan gasket, water pump (if you don't know how old it is), oil pump (or at least reseal), timing belts, and timing idlers. If you are on a budget, just do the intake gaskets (many say use dealer bought), head gaskets (many have good luck with the fel-pro 9392t here they are less than $20. You could order all your parts from them), you may be able to get away with re-using the exhaust gaskets. Rockauto.com has some very competitive prices, but it may not be worth it to buy only 1 or two parts. Oh yeah, there is an oil seal between the head and camcase. That is a VERY important seal , without replacing that with the OEM one, your valves will probably tap like mad. There is one on both sides. The part number is 13089AA010. You should be able to order these from the dealer for about $3 each. The haynes manual or Chiltons, is pretty good with How-to's for taking the engine apart and reassembling, the part Haynes is confusing about is the timing, that's why I sent you that link for "How to install timing belts". Good luck and don't be scared to ask questions during your project! -Justin

Those idle RPMs are perfect, according to the factory specs. Everyone has their opinions.

The only time I've had the turbo flange break off the up pipe is when I did not have the downpipe secured to the transmission where the stock Down pipe does.