[HTi]Johnson

Here's a direct replacement for $12 + shipping tho.

If you were leaking exhaust before the turbo, that will make it "doggy" and the dealer said you had loose exhaust studs that needed repair, right? Because the turbo needs all the exhaust it can get to spool and produce boost, if the exhaust was going elsewhere, the turbo wouldn't spool,as much, then it won't produce boost that won't trigger switch, which means no boost light. You should get a boost gauge. Either one you install or just one as a tool and hook it up to one of your boost lines on the intake. You'll probably need a T connection for that. Almost any line straight off the intake would work, just make sure you put it back to normal. Your boost should be about 7.5psi under complete load. It won't read much if you are in neutral, not going anywhere. With Subarus, 9 times out of 10, it's the easy fix.

Yeah I always thought that you'd want bigger after the turbo, because the turbo is the thing that's causing back pressure, and everything after is just for convenience or sound sanity!

Try this EDIT:Maybe not, those are rebuilts, I, for some reason, thought they were new

You look here yet?

Check the fuel pump fuses. You're supposed to hope for the easiest fix;).

Just keep a spare belt with ya. If the one you have breaks, put the other one on and don't use AC until you fix that idler pulley, which should removable without taking anything else off (ask someone on the board...I actually think I have one, I'll look or look at the junkyards). Or you could keep buying new belts .

You shouldn't need the AAV, I was thinking the IAC.

You shouldn't have to remove the distributor. If I remember right, You can disconnect the fuel lines, undo the vapor canister clamp and one heater line hose and the upper radiator hose, and maybe one vaccuum line that's on the passenger side. It's not as hard as it sounds. Then you should be able to tilt it back to the fire wall and work.

Still won't start? Do you have the rotor (of the distributor) in the right position? It could be 180' off. And did you make sure that the harness to the distributor was connected nice and snug?

Did you put the timing belts on right? At the valve timing mark, not the ignition marks and with the cam pulleys with one mark up, one down? Like this

HAH HAH HAH! That's mean dude! You're supposed to keep enough of the rope sticking out so you can pull it out. Maybe do it at Top dead center? So you don't bend an exhaust valve?

I've never had luck with "Easy outs/ reverse drills" they always break in the hole and cause a bigger problem.

Take the belt off or relieve the tension on your water pump pulley. Now try to wiggle it up and down, left and right, and in and out. It shouldn't move at all... a little is ok, a little as in "I think it may have moved....but that could have been my imagination". Also, try to spin the pulley, it should have a little resistance with smooth rotation, no grinding or hard spots. -Justin.

Someone need a speedo cable for their manual tranny:brow:? I have one you can have, free +shipping.

Yeah, I'm replacing mine when the engine is out. . I never needed to replace them, I just do, for good measures. -Justin

Nice, all my cars have come to me AC equipped but not working...AKA the prior owners thought it'd be cool to take the AC lines off the compressor. I've pondered installing AC, but I live in Oregon, it gets "hot" here like 2 days a year:lol:. So I just roll the windows down a little and open the vents. -Justin

How so? You still have to remove the drive line to replace the diff, and then the axles, hanger and 2 nuts in back.(not to mention that the seal is less than $10 and differentials go for at 3 times that amount, unless you're lucky) Replacing the seal should just involve taking drivline off and a nice impact gun. BCA Part # 1173 Is the seal, I think, is it called a pinion seal? Again, it RockAuto has come through with it! They pay me for these plugs, but good service gets good reviews. click here for the direct link to the part. Hope this helps, -Justin.

I'm trying the Fel-Pro Perma Torque myself. I just installed them and haven't got the engine back in the car. I picked them up at www.rockauto.com . For $19 each, plus shipping. But if you're doing head gaskets you might as well order oil pump (or just reseal), timing belts, oil pan gasket...etc. so it makes the shipping cheaper per part. Oh yeah, Napa has ball joints for $28 and rockauto has them for $18 (same ones by part number) or so. I've had nothing but good luck with rockauto. Some people don't like them for some reason. my .02 cents. -Justin

I don't think you're going to strip anything. But just make sure you are turning the wrench the right way;). (My friend did that, we had to drill and tap larger studs in). I've had luck with an impact...if you don't have an impact, just use a socket wrench with appropiate socket (should be 14mm sometimes 17mm) and if they are real hard, use an extension like a pipe or tube. Hopefully they gave you the right gasket. I've never had luck with auto parts stores and exhaust gaskets, they usually give me the gasket that goes at the end of the Y pipe. Good Luck, keep us updated on how it goes! -Justin

Fuel filters?

Woh. I just found those OEM O-Rings for $1.61 a piece at RockAuto.. click here you just need to do a parts search for #A4002-56062. The thing is you have to buy 10, which makes it $16.10 plus shipping. Better than $4 something. I know this is an old thread, but I don't think it's . (HAH I've always wanted to use that!) -Justin.

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523504 Transmission Seal, Right;Drive Axle Flange;1 Per Car BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523505 Transmission Seal, Left;Drive Axle Flange;1 Per Car For some reason they have different part numbers for each side. You should check out www.rockauto.com they are the best with most prices. Even with shipping included. Hopefully that works.

Man, as for finding those mounts, this is all I could come up with HERE

I'm thinking it's a grounding issue. My gauge would spike into the red right after I turned the blower motor (for the heater) on. Someone told me it was a bad ground, so I ran some grounds from the engine to the body in a couple spots and a beefier ground from battery to engine. It worked. Justin.