[HTi]Johnson

Ya know what you can do to get rid of that MAF? Megasquirt:headbang:. PM me, I make the units...but I'm still working on an almost plug n play for subarus. Oh yeah, great work too!! I Have one for my Turbo wagon, it's a hotwire though.

HAH HAH! I love the oil stains...cool page so far.

check www.craigslist.org

I believe the intakes will bolt up.

If you're gunna go through the trouble of converting to an EA82 Turbo, may as well go for the EJ (Engines found in the legacies and etc.). You have to do all the same stuff as an EA82, plus get/make an adapter plate for the tranny, and get a flywheel drilled out for the EJ. Check the retrofit section. There's "How-to's" there. EDIT: YOU BEAT ME TO IT S'ko!! :-)

EA81s are pushrods and EA82s have timing belts (AND NOISY LIFTERS, at least mine:mad:) I'd say stick with the EA81. EA82s are good motors, but the work might be too much, however you could get an ea82 SPFI with the ECU and harness (not for the non-mechanically inclined) and put it in. I think the engine would drop right in, and bolt up to the tranny without mods.

The Pick N Pull by the airport, off hwy 99?

I'm probably not lucky to have "walks in the park". I've replaced the U joint via acetylene torch...it worked but I burnt my foot 'something fierce'. The damn berry managed to get through my work pants, into my boot, and to the bottom of my arch, in the middle! And my profession is Iron working, I deal with welding splatter all day. Yeah, it was easy, I guess...but the burn factor slowed me down . OH I know, it's because it wasn't a Subaru's Driveline. DAMN TOYOTAs. Ok, as for replacing the U joints in Subarus, I've heard that you can't, from some people, and others are saying that you can. What's the deal? I've seen someone do it on an EA71's line. They used the bench vise, socket and a BIG friggin' hammer. So yeah...good night!! -Justin.

I the reason is... it's easier to deck the heads, to deck the block, you'd more than likely have to split it. Gotta be carefull. Decking the heads and/or block, could make the intake not bolt on anymore (I'd think after some serious metal was removed). Oh, maybe they deck the heads mainly due to warping?

Yeah I was thinking like $600 to $800 for that. But it's all about how much anyone is willing to pay for it.

Do you have access to an impact gun? Those help with frozen bolts.

Yeah, the #1 is on the left (OK OK in "real terms" it'd be the right side, because that's the perspective from the driver's seat:grin:) closest to the front and yes, the green connectors need to be connected. TIming is 20deg btdc (Not the 8 deg that it says under the hood, of your first ea82t, that you didn't know the hood was swapped out....not that that's happened to me before ) Good luck with your car, Justin Johnson.

OH yeah, or does the vibration get worse with speed or the car. Thanks, Naru, I forgot about crappy rebuilt axles. He didn't say whether the axles were replaced while the engine was out or a different time.

I thought you connect the green connectors for timing or "safe" mode and the black ones to retrieve saved codes, and both of them to clear the codes?

Hello, it depends. If it was a pressure plate, or anything attached to the crank, like flywheel, pressure plate, or even a pulley, it would vibrate with engine RPM. THe more RPMS, the worse the vibration. How's the drivability? Like: Does it drive better or as good a it use to, accelerate the same? Does the engine shake real bad at idle? I'm asking these because, with the engine replacement there is a lot of variables. Like timing belts that were put on wrong, distibutor not correctly timed, or firing order is off. If your engine shakes a lot while idling, I'd first check the plug wire order and then the timing. And if you could tell us the year of your 'Ru, that'll help a lot too. And, last thing, how Subaru inclined is your mechanic? Hope it's something simple, Justin Johnson.

when you say "boost" you mean average or peak? Because my stock setup does 8psi with WOT. And can you take pictures of the o ringed engine?

Most people would say "Weberize it" I'm surprised no one has. Maybe I just did, But I don't deal with Carbs anymore (not by choice, I want my 1983 GL Green Wagon back!). You could fuel inject it with an SPFI swap. Search for it if interested.

They're just jealous that their Trucks don't have them! And it's not like the brat seats are a dime a dozen, compared to the nissan injectors, and all those honda parts.

SOrry to bug you, but I still can't send messages. But here's what I was going to send

Your mail box is full!!! Where did you get your adapter plate for your weber?

BASTARDS! ANd they make fun of Subarus. Screw them.

That thing would have to sping HELLA fast to even come close to a turbo...what was it like 100,000RPMs? It more then likely will have drag on your car. But, hey, if you want try it, do it, tell us how it goes. My .02 cents Justin Johnson

Good point, about the catylitic converters. Get under there and try to shake the Y-pipe and see if you hear any rattling, or even take the exhaust off and try to shake it with the ends pointing down, and see if anything falls out. I've had Cats just break a part and cause blockage.

What about the coolant temp sensor? It is located to the top left of the throttle body, it's in the block. Rear ....x O==[]==O

lol