[HTi]Johnson

what grade are the head bolts, and what type of steel? just your common steel, heat treated? Thanks, I tried searching, maybe I just missed it.

Look what you started LEET. GD, I know what you mean about that whole walmart gauge shiz, what a PITA. I am looking for a digital one, they seem to be pricey though. Any ideas?

Timing? Timing belts? Maybe you broke the passenger's side?

UGH, it not my money, I agree.

How about he gets a more dependable/accurate oil pressure gauge and then reassess the oil pump.

3 hours or so....remove the radiator.

You just need to take the convertor off and pull that stub out and twist it a little and push it in, semi-hard (don't use any hitting tools ) It'll go in.

Yes, as long as you connect the black connectors.

Yeah, either replace or reseal the oil pump. When you take it out...look at it for scarring on the pieces...if it looks good, a reseal would suffice, you can get a kit at Napa. While your in there you can repack the Tensioners as GD recommended and replace the timing belts, or buy this Good Luck.

check timing. How about your timing belts? There are two, and the passenger side could break and the engine would run, just rough. Does it "rock" back and forth pretty hard?

only $180 for them all and like $45 shipped! NICE!

My first thought is a ground wire.

try www.ebay.com and www.thepartsbin.com

HAH HAH howcome all the interest now? . I'm tooling around with making my own connections for the harness. It will plug in to the harness where the (secret).

1: Do a compression test on all cylinders. Does it get hot on the gauge? Check the thermostat. 2: Kinda sounds like a timing issue. Follow step 3. 3: Have you checked the timing with a timing light? There are two connectors that need to be connected prior to timing it on the #1 cylinder. Have you checked all plugs and wires? Make sure the cap and rotor look good. Take the timing covers off and put the driver's side cam straight up and the passenger's straight down. Like this: (driver's) (Passenger's). Then you should see these three marks, with the arrow on the center one. If one pulley isn't in the right spot (Like the picture shows), but the other is, your valve timing is off and follow this to fix it: Good Luck, I hope my rambling helped, Justin.

I second Northwet, that thing they call a "search" function is crap. I've been on the Board for almost 2 years, and still aven't figured out the search enought to use it efficiently. So the answer is yes. You can convert.

http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf

I've used Accel Super stock (8140 or something) coils for 4 years now, with no problems. Some people will say that it will fry some stuff. But with 4 years of nothing but good, I'd say it's safe and the "frying" was probably an error on someone's part.

Freakin' sweet. I know showing off the FMIC looks awesome, but I think you should put some shielding in front of it! Like some expanded aluminum, even if it had 1/2" holes through it, it would protect it from the debris that would do damage. Justin Johnson P.S.: I'm jealous.

Other than buying some generic seal material and making it work...the next best bet (I know of) is to goto a wrecking yard and find one better than your's.:-\ -Johnson P.S. Welcome to the board

I don't believe that it should've been deleted as you suggested. Merely moved(EDIT: I thought he posted in the new gen), as the mods did. As for the problem...I'd start with a compression tester. This will tell you a lot about the engine and will help you diagnose the problem, as you probably know. Good compression? Check spark good spark, check for air. Simple engines require simple diagnostics.

Pulling the engine is not as hard as it may look.

Woh the headgaskets are different? So if I used a turbo gasket on a NA engine, they'd last longer?

+ I'm not sure about over there in Pennsylvania, but meth is illegal here.

Hello all. I helped reseal this engine. The leak is coming from the driver's side valve cover. It's tight and the seal is there. It didn't leak for a while....then it just started gushing out. The thing is when you now add water it comes out of that valve cover. So, it's probably cracked, but do you think it's the head or the block. Is there an easy way to check? Thanks everyone.