[HTi]Johnson

HAH Nice.

Well, one way to test would be to get on loose gravel...and then (in 2wd) take off fast from a stop and try to get the front wheels to break loose and "peel out". Then push the 4wd and do the same...you shouldn't spin the front tires as much, if any. Where in oregon are you? I'm in Eugene.

The transmission works when the car is cold? But not when it is warmed up? You can check www.craigslist.org and look for Justy in the cars and trucks and in auto parts, some people might have them for sale, cheap, and you can take the tranny out. Is it an automatic, it kinda sounds like a vacuum leak.

I SEE COUPE TAIL lights! OMG!! That is a lot of stuff. Wrong part of the world though. DAMNIT

Horizontally opposed engine, symetrical drive train, ease of use, and the fact you can engage 4wd while moving (supposed to be in a straight line).

Man, you must be one of those paranoid compulsive people. Figuring all the times your car has done what. Oh yeah...

It will swap right in, but the locking center diff will need to be wired in and the vacuum line to it. Ask on the board...someone will show/tell you how. EDIT! About the Ej conversion. You will need a tranny adapter and a flywheel drilled out and other stuff. I didn't see that part of the question. -MATT DAMON-

Garner (I think it was him) made some adjustable cam pulleys...I'm not sure what ever happened to that venture, probably lack of funds and people to give funds.

Balanced....NAH!! Everyone loves shrapnel. Just kidding, but wouldn't both ways require balancing?

Yeah the lancers are like the WRX, they've been around for a while, but not in the states.

What color of spark? Seriously...a nice blue spark is a hot spark, yellow isn't. My friend had this problem and it turned out to be a corroded coil wire.

A lot to learn young grasshoppa. Where the tranny and engine meet...that's called a bell housing. On top of the bell housing there is a hole (it's on the engine half of the housing), the hole may have a rubber plug in it, it's pretty big, can't miss it. See those three marks, those are the marks Miles is referring too. If you rotate it more, you'll see the ignition timing marks. (I hijacked that photo from Miles' timing belt instructions, thanks Miles.) You can use a 1/2 inch drive wrench with a 22mm socket on it to rotate the crank by the crank pulley bolt. If you don't have a 22mm socket, a 7/8 will work. Try not to rotate it counter clockwise, there's a slim chance that the timing belts may skip a couple teeth, causing all hell to break loose ) I'm on AIM often... EDIT: Oh yeah, that big thing that has all the timing marks on it, is the flywheel. You may have a pressure plate, it depends on if you have an Automatic or a manual.

hey. Do you have AOL instant messenger? My Screen name is crowbartherapy. Coburg is 6 miles North of eugene...like hundreds from you.. As for the hood release, if you can, get your hand in the grill, in the center, you'll see where the latch comes down. If you can get your finger behind there, you'll feel a lever, pull it to the right it should pop up.

He means 194 Bulbs as in the part number is 194. Yeah, talk about

There are inspection pieces on the timing belt covers. (Black plastic on the front of your engine.) Pull the passenger side inspection piece off and have someone crank the engine over, you should see the belt move. WATCH YOUR FINGERS on the belts. If you weren't soo far away, I'd come over and help.

Well... You could set the flywheel to top dead center and take the distributor cap off and the rotor should be on the #1 spark plug wire. The number 1 plug is the one that is on the passenger side the closest to the bumper...then #3 is the one next to it and 2 is on the driver's side front and #4 is closest to the distributor (AKA Disty). If you hear backfiring, I would bet it's 180 off. Do you have a timing light and an extra person? If you do, put the light on the #1 plug and have someone crank the car over and point the light at the hole in the bell housing, where you see the flywheel, and it should flash on the numbers, if it does, your timing is close enough to at least start the car. If it doesn't it's probably 180 off. Did you put the plug wires on right. The firing order is 1 3 2 4. #1 cylinder on the disty cap is the one that faces rearmost to the firewall. its will be closest to the clip or screw for the cap on the back side. the screw will be slightly to the right of the #1 connection the rotor rotates counter clockwise, and #1 cylinder is ont he front passenger side of the motor

ROCK ON

What kinda Subaru do you have? I know on my GL-10 and RX, if I unlocked the driver's side, all the doors unlock. So, give us your car info, and I'll try to locate that schematic for ya:grin:

What I meant by the electrical connections is: Just check them and make sure you didn't pull them apart with the engine removal/install. YES...check the ATF.

Where;s your town, in oregon... And for it backfiring...you probably have the distributor in 180 degrees off. Take the cap off and remember where the rotor is pointing and pull it out and put it in with the rotor facing the opposite direction. NOTE: THe rotor will move as you lower the distributor. Make sure it is pointing DEAD 180. EDIT: I just googled where that town is...you best be going to WCSS 8!

I hope I'm not wrong...

How's the fluid levels. ANd I have a 4eat, but I'm not sure if it is supposed to have a vacuum line from the manifold to the tranny. Are you sure the electrical connections to the tranny are good?

I second changing the fuel filters...both of them. When was the last time they were changed. I had a wagon, took it on the sand days after I bought it and didn't check all the connections and such to the carb. The air cleaner came loose and needless to say I sucked some sand into my engine. Yeah...it was a fun trip home. I would hold the gas steady and it would go...stumble...go...stumble...go...stumble...go...stumble... top speed was 45mph on a 65 mile trip. I changed the fuel filters and BAM! gone. From then on, all my engines have been sealed up and the only thing allowed in is regulated fuel and air.

OH YEAH...I haven't had the honor of having a diff lock. I own both a Rx and a GL-10:rolleyes:

I have NEVER seen a T on the hoses coming from that unit. I bet you have a boost leak! Take the T off and put one line on one nipple and the other on the other. See if defrost works (with car running), if it doesn't switch them and if that doesn't work tell us.