[HTi]Johnson

http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/127873507.html There she be...I'll get better pics tomorrow, if I remember.

Hello All. Just had to tell you all what I bought. I paid $400 for it...body is straight except the passenger fender (has a little dent), front bumper got pushed to hard on the same corner, and the back bumper looks like it had too much weight pushing down on it...it's at a slope. It has the 4speed AWD auto tranny:-\ with the 3.7 LSD, it's a coupe. The interior is great...seats look nice and no cuts. The thing is...it has coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant. The guy didn't explain why it did that...just said it broke down. So I am thinking that it over heated and he blew gaskets (best case scenario) or blew gaskets and everything is warped. So when I get some time I am going to pull the engine and take a look at it. I drove it from the place I bought to my work (about 3miles)...it was like a smoke screen. TONS! of white smoke...like a fog. I'm a part time fire-fighter and we usually get calls about cars being on fire when it turns out to be a coolant problem...I never knew why people would call about that...but now i see why, especially when I was stopped...couldn't even see the HEADLIGHTS behind me. EDIT: OH yeah NO RUST...ANYWHERE!

EDIT: VErsion 2: I'm dumb. I get it. You might not have as much oil...maybe have an oil resivor? Like they do with VW bajas.

What about those people who have put EA82 parts into their Outback or Forester?(Mainly the dual-range)...

Yes, I believe that's what he is talking about, an EA82T or at least an EA82 SPFI

Is your engine turbo'd? Fuel Injected? or Carbuerated? The only difference that makes are the heads and the compression.

what color is the vehicle? I was thinking white wagon with black wheels?

Someone had this in their Signature, but we all know where those went. It went something like "I'd rather drive a slow car fast, then a fast car fast" or something like that. I like pulling into the staging parking lot at the sand dunes...everyone staring at me....as I release my dune flag and then speed off into the dunes without getting out of my car for ANYTHING (Like locking hubs or airing down). That's only one reason why I like old gens.(I'm sure I'll do that if I ever get a new gen )

Well, I ... Pull radiator Pull V belt Put valve marks on center. (Three lines on the flywheel...not the degree mark.) Take Crank pulley off Remove timing covers One mark on the pulley should be pointing up and the other one down(You've done a head job, you know this already) Take timing belts off Take oil sending unit wire off Remove the bolts holding oil pump and remove pump. I used a crescent wrench and put it on the impeller and then took the cog gear off the oil pump with a socket wrench. Then the shaft should slide out...clean and then inspect the shaft, impeller and gear...and the respective mating surfaces. If it all looks good, replace gaskets, if it is scarred get a new/rebuilt pump. Clean everything up. Some people recommend putting a little bit of gasket sealer on the seam of the engine, where the pump mates to it (at the 12 and 6 o' clock posistions). You impeller gear should have a "B" or some mark on it, on the side that goes into the engine...your driven gear will have one too. Put the B side on the inside of the engine. And then installation is reverse of removal. Make sure the mickey mouse gasket doesn't slip out when you put it on. BUT when you get the pump bolted on completely, spin the cog gear by hand and make sure it spins freely with NO resistance. I hope this helped. Justin Johnson

Yeah, I had the same problem...replaced the gaskets (3 of them, $17 at napa). Ticking went away within 10 miles and I have 75 PSI at 3500 RPM running temp...I'm not sure about the gauge though, it's a cheap walmart one.

Well said Will.

Here's your timing belt set, with belts and all the pulleys.

Hello. My car is acting funny...stuttering until about 1.5k RPM and then just taking off fine. When I push the clutch in or just let off the gas without being in gear, it'll die...but start right back up. I think my alternator maybe taking a dump, could that affect it? This is a 1987 Gl-10 Turbo with an Intercooler. Oh yeah, I adjusted the timing, it was at 25' BTDC. Must've changed when I put the new belts on. It's at 20' now.

If you have the time, do a tune up. Cap, Rotor, Plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, check timing things like that. The fuel filter...is your car a carb or fuel injected? Fuel Injected is in the engine bay(i know this) on the driver's side against the fire wall. Do carb'd EA82's have two filter? The one in the engine bay and the one in front of the passenger rear tire, next to the fuel pump. -Justin.

Timing. Check your timing, with the two green connectors connected. Under the steering column, behind the plastic Connect them and then start the car. And check your timing. I don't know if it is carb'd or fuel injected. Carbed is 8'BTDC adn injected is 20'. Someone correct me if I am wrong. When you are done timing, disconnect the connectors. The two black connectors down there are for reading trouble codes. If you want, you could connect those(with the green ones disconnected) and there will be a green LED flashing. It flashes long then short. Long flashes are 10s and shorts are 1s. For example LONG LONG LONG SHORT SHORT SHORT equals 32, with is an O2 Sensor problem. Oh yeah, if you knew this, just call me dumb. P.S. yeah check the fuel filter...I've had cars not start solely on that reason.

I think he pulled the shaft out of the DOJ (cup looking thing at the end of the shaft) on the tranny. In theory, he could spin the axle and hold the DOJ and try to push it back in...and then lower the car back on its wheels and drive with it. For while. I don't think he pulled the outside cup off the axle shaft. That takes A LOT of force, I had an old axle and I wanted the outside cup, so I beat it on the ground as hard as I could. It didn't break or budge. I'm an Iron worker and I was surprised with the sturdiness.

Brad you only THINK you need to know!!!

Oh hey Nels... Ok here is my IC set up, I DO have it recirculating. As for fuel filter, I have replaced it not more than 11k ago, should I again? As for exhaust, it doesn't leak before the turbo...but after the turbo, where my 2.25" downpipe meets the stock mid pipe it leaks...but that's not a factor here. I've checked all my vacuum lines. Not getting any codes...but the weird thing is...I was getting the purge control selinoid code (the wires are busted off of it) but now it's not giving a code. So that makes me think twice about the coolant temp sensor. I need to check it with a multimeter. I have thought about puttin the stock back on and checking the difference. I don't know what I am pushing with boost...I know I know, I need a boost gauge for the life of me.:-\ And another question...when does the waste gate actuate and does it need to since I have a BPV? PS I got rid of the air suspension...well kinda, the compressor and tank are still in the car, but the struts are out...if anyone wants the front pair, they've been modded by someone (they have valves on them so you can pump them up with a tire nozzle), they hold air for weeks. If you want them, PM me.

My car stumbles on acceleration at times. I have a wrx IC and I was wondering if having it at stock timing could be doing this. It kinda sounds like it is "post" detonating. I have the timing at 20' btdc(with the green connectors). 1987 GL-10 Turbo with ngk plugs, new wires, new cap and rotor.(that's all I done to the ignition system.) I run only chevron supreme (high grade) 92 octane. THANKS!

I was thinking about this just today, while daydreaming at work. Then I saw this post...what about a motor that powers a belt and the belt powers your stock water pump? I know there is friction loss between the belt and pulleys and the motor...but what do you think about it?

I've heard that the Japanese never change their oil. So if you get a 30,000 Japanese Domestic Market engine...you got a motor that ran on the same oil for 30,000miles. Hah...it'd be "Stock" oil.

Why don't we have EJ dual ranges in the States?! The adapter plates that I have seen a just a plate with slotted holes in them because the EJ has a bigger bellhousing than the EA (Or the other way around). They are also 1/2inch thick.

I was wondering what would the benefits and drawback would be of running straight 20weight in my 1987 GL-10 Turbo?

Front wheel drives do have their perks. My first Subaru..FWD. Oh yeah, this was taken with a disposable camera...talk about luck.

I'd check the timing belt tensioner. My friend had the same symptoms with his RX...he thought a rod was going....everything you described...it did.