[HTi]Johnson

If you have the time, do a tune up. Cap, Rotor, Plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, check timing things like that. The fuel filter...is your car a carb or fuel injected? Fuel Injected is in the engine bay(i know this) on the driver's side against the fire wall. Do carb'd EA82's have two filter? The one in the engine bay and the one in front of the passenger rear tire, next to the fuel pump. -Justin.

Timing. Check your timing, with the two green connectors connected. Under the steering column, behind the plastic Connect them and then start the car. And check your timing. I don't know if it is carb'd or fuel injected. Carbed is 8'BTDC adn injected is 20'. Someone correct me if I am wrong. When you are done timing, disconnect the connectors. The two black connectors down there are for reading trouble codes. If you want, you could connect those(with the green ones disconnected) and there will be a green LED flashing. It flashes long then short. Long flashes are 10s and shorts are 1s. For example LONG LONG LONG SHORT SHORT SHORT equals 32, with is an O2 Sensor problem. Oh yeah, if you knew this, just call me dumb. P.S. yeah check the fuel filter...I've had cars not start solely on that reason.

I think he pulled the shaft out of the DOJ (cup looking thing at the end of the shaft) on the tranny. In theory, he could spin the axle and hold the DOJ and try to push it back in...and then lower the car back on its wheels and drive with it. For while. I don't think he pulled the outside cup off the axle shaft. That takes A LOT of force, I had an old axle and I wanted the outside cup, so I beat it on the ground as hard as I could. It didn't break or budge. I'm an Iron worker and I was surprised with the sturdiness.

Brad you only THINK you need to know!!!

Oh hey Nels... Ok here is my IC set up, I DO have it recirculating. As for fuel filter, I have replaced it not more than 11k ago, should I again? As for exhaust, it doesn't leak before the turbo...but after the turbo, where my 2.25" downpipe meets the stock mid pipe it leaks...but that's not a factor here. I've checked all my vacuum lines. Not getting any codes...but the weird thing is...I was getting the purge control selinoid code (the wires are busted off of it) but now it's not giving a code. So that makes me think twice about the coolant temp sensor. I need to check it with a multimeter. I have thought about puttin the stock back on and checking the difference. I don't know what I am pushing with boost...I know I know, I need a boost gauge for the life of me.:-\ And another question...when does the waste gate actuate and does it need to since I have a BPV? PS I got rid of the air suspension...well kinda, the compressor and tank are still in the car, but the struts are out...if anyone wants the front pair, they've been modded by someone (they have valves on them so you can pump them up with a tire nozzle), they hold air for weeks. If you want them, PM me.

My car stumbles on acceleration at times. I have a wrx IC and I was wondering if having it at stock timing could be doing this. It kinda sounds like it is "post" detonating. I have the timing at 20' btdc(with the green connectors). 1987 GL-10 Turbo with ngk plugs, new wires, new cap and rotor.(that's all I done to the ignition system.) I run only chevron supreme (high grade) 92 octane. THANKS!

I was thinking about this just today, while daydreaming at work. Then I saw this post...what about a motor that powers a belt and the belt powers your stock water pump? I know there is friction loss between the belt and pulleys and the motor...but what do you think about it?

I've heard that the Japanese never change their oil. So if you get a 30,000 Japanese Domestic Market engine...you got a motor that ran on the same oil for 30,000miles. Hah...it'd be "Stock" oil.

Why don't we have EJ dual ranges in the States?! The adapter plates that I have seen a just a plate with slotted holes in them because the EJ has a bigger bellhousing than the EA (Or the other way around). They are also 1/2inch thick.

I was wondering what would the benefits and drawback would be of running straight 20weight in my 1987 GL-10 Turbo?

Front wheel drives do have their perks. My first Subaru..FWD. Oh yeah, this was taken with a disposable camera...talk about luck.

I'd check the timing belt tensioner. My friend had the same symptoms with his RX...he thought a rod was going....everything you described...it did.

I think it's the Honda banner in the background...it's bad Mojo for Subarus...Honda ATVs and Dirt Bikes on the other hand are awesome...but Honda cars...I think the Sube feels out of place.

Yes to belts. But does either car have AC? or a clutch fan on the pump? the AC water pump is shorter than the Non AC water pump...which makes me thinks that if one is AC and one isn't, your belts for you alternator and pump won't line up If you are doing the belts to the manual, be careful when it tells you to put both cam pulleys' hole up. This is wrong, the left pulley up, right pulley down. and make sure you are on the middle of the 3 valve marks...not the Top Dead Center mark. EDIT: Who knows where that great Timing Belt write up is? EDIT Ver. 2.0: found it http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

Welcome to the board, but you are in the Older Generation of subarus, I don't think you want what we have... look here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3

I still suggest mounting that downpipe to the tranny...you can see the point is mounts to. It's right to the left of the CV...the DOJ.

PCV valve is called "Positive Crankcase Ventillation" valve. There might be a sticker under the hood of the vehicle with the "Vacuum Diagram". It may show where the valve is. I forgot. Anyone have a pic or diagram for him? Ich wiess einige Deutsch. Ich vergass viel. Wie heisst dein Auto?

If it isn't your waste gate, I'd say it's the up pipe. Right where it mounts to the turbo plate. I had the same problem, car was loud and barely any boost. This happened because my downpipe wasn't secured to the mounting point...on the tranny. In the pic, I can see that your downpipe isn't mounted to the tranny. I'd say you tore the uppipe right before the weld. Keep us updated.

Is that a car alarm under the hood? What kind of Subaru is it? And what country is the car in?

Hello. Welcome to the board. I am assuming this is a Subaru wagon, not a hatch (2door plus hatch) if it was a hatchback, it'd have the EA81 motor in it. The EA82's are overhead cams and EA81's are push rods. As for the lifters or as you know them, tappets. They are hydraulically controlled. No adjustments needed. But they can start making noises. Some common reason for the noises are oil pressure, too thin of oil, or debris in the HVLA(Hydraulic Valve Lash Adjuster). How is your oil pressure? According to the Factory Service Manual, it should be from 14 to 26 psi at 2000rpms at operating temperature and 34 to 46psi at 4000rpm. What's your gauge say it's running at? If it is normal pressure: The first steps you should to try are an oil change with some sort of oil additive that cleans the engine...like Marvel's Mystery Oil (or even Auto Tranny Fluid). Just be sure to compensate for the ammount of additive you put in. I forgot how much oil these take but say it is 4 quarts...you'd put 3.5 quarts oil and .5quarts oil additive. Drive your car like this for a couple days. If it isn't normal pressure or the above doesn't work. You may need to change your oil pump gasket. When my lifters were noisy, this is what fixed it. It's not a hard job, but it isn't easy. If you need to do this, just ask the board for help, if you need it. As for the clutch, I'd say adjust the cable. If that doesn't work you're gunna have to replace it. There are two way of doing that. You can take the engine out (most people say this is easiest.) or pull the tranny out. Hope I helped, Justin. ADDON: The noise your lifters are making is refered to as the "Tick of Deah" or "TOD" which is just a name for it, it usually never ends with the "Death" of anything/anyone, just annoying.

Nice car! Cool site too.

Yeah, I've found an unopened Subaru tool kit in a GL-10. It still had the thin clear plastic bag, sealed.

Ah you can just pull that out. You just have to think of the force it took to put the dent there and replicate it, in reverse...not really..but maybe. How about the jeep, what happened to it? And was the driver nice or an A-Hole?

Update: Hello. I tried all the usual things to get the TOD to go away. Oil change, oil chage with lihgter weight with ATF and another with Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO). Except for replacing the oil pump gasket (the mickey mouse one). I replaced it and drove for about 2 miles and it was gone. Just thought I'd update in case someone did a search...now they have a solution.

Stupid jeeps, they must be jealous. That sucks pretty bad. What about a good auto body shop? I mean...maybe you could get us better pics but, I'm probably wrong, it looks like you just need a rear hatch and bumper... and the body could be beaten back into place?