[HTi]Johnson

I think it's the Honda banner in the background...it's bad Mojo for Subarus...Honda ATVs and Dirt Bikes on the other hand are awesome...but Honda cars...I think the Sube feels out of place.

Yes to belts. But does either car have AC? or a clutch fan on the pump? the AC water pump is shorter than the Non AC water pump...which makes me thinks that if one is AC and one isn't, your belts for you alternator and pump won't line up If you are doing the belts to the manual, be careful when it tells you to put both cam pulleys' hole up. This is wrong, the left pulley up, right pulley down. and make sure you are on the middle of the 3 valve marks...not the Top Dead Center mark. EDIT: Who knows where that great Timing Belt write up is? EDIT Ver. 2.0: found it http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

Welcome to the board, but you are in the Older Generation of subarus, I don't think you want what we have... look here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3

I still suggest mounting that downpipe to the tranny...you can see the point is mounts to. It's right to the left of the CV...the DOJ.

PCV valve is called "Positive Crankcase Ventillation" valve. There might be a sticker under the hood of the vehicle with the "Vacuum Diagram". It may show where the valve is. I forgot. Anyone have a pic or diagram for him? Ich wiess einige Deutsch. Ich vergass viel. Wie heisst dein Auto?

If it isn't your waste gate, I'd say it's the up pipe. Right where it mounts to the turbo plate. I had the same problem, car was loud and barely any boost. This happened because my downpipe wasn't secured to the mounting point...on the tranny. In the pic, I can see that your downpipe isn't mounted to the tranny. I'd say you tore the uppipe right before the weld. Keep us updated.

Is that a car alarm under the hood? What kind of Subaru is it? And what country is the car in?

Hello. Welcome to the board. I am assuming this is a Subaru wagon, not a hatch (2door plus hatch) if it was a hatchback, it'd have the EA81 motor in it. The EA82's are overhead cams and EA81's are push rods. As for the lifters or as you know them, tappets. They are hydraulically controlled. No adjustments needed. But they can start making noises. Some common reason for the noises are oil pressure, too thin of oil, or debris in the HVLA(Hydraulic Valve Lash Adjuster). How is your oil pressure? According to the Factory Service Manual, it should be from 14 to 26 psi at 2000rpms at operating temperature and 34 to 46psi at 4000rpm. What's your gauge say it's running at? If it is normal pressure: The first steps you should to try are an oil change with some sort of oil additive that cleans the engine...like Marvel's Mystery Oil (or even Auto Tranny Fluid). Just be sure to compensate for the ammount of additive you put in. I forgot how much oil these take but say it is 4 quarts...you'd put 3.5 quarts oil and .5quarts oil additive. Drive your car like this for a couple days. If it isn't normal pressure or the above doesn't work. You may need to change your oil pump gasket. When my lifters were noisy, this is what fixed it. It's not a hard job, but it isn't easy. If you need to do this, just ask the board for help, if you need it. As for the clutch, I'd say adjust the cable. If that doesn't work you're gunna have to replace it. There are two way of doing that. You can take the engine out (most people say this is easiest.) or pull the tranny out. Hope I helped, Justin. ADDON: The noise your lifters are making is refered to as the "Tick of Deah" or "TOD" which is just a name for it, it usually never ends with the "Death" of anything/anyone, just annoying.

Nice car! Cool site too.

Yeah, I've found an unopened Subaru tool kit in a GL-10. It still had the thin clear plastic bag, sealed.

Ah you can just pull that out. You just have to think of the force it took to put the dent there and replicate it, in reverse...not really..but maybe. How about the jeep, what happened to it? And was the driver nice or an A-Hole?

Update: Hello. I tried all the usual things to get the TOD to go away. Oil change, oil chage with lihgter weight with ATF and another with Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO). Except for replacing the oil pump gasket (the mickey mouse one). I replaced it and drove for about 2 miles and it was gone. Just thought I'd update in case someone did a search...now they have a solution.

Stupid jeeps, they must be jealous. That sucks pretty bad. What about a good auto body shop? I mean...maybe you could get us better pics but, I'm probably wrong, it looks like you just need a rear hatch and bumper... and the body could be beaten back into place?

It couldn';t have been anyone on this board, we all know that you just push it back on it's wheels and continue on. Or at least, push it back on the wheels so you fluids don't leak out of the PCV system. Should leave a note on it with "Interested in purchasing your car (Insert phone number)" Wait, I notice that your signature states you own a red loyale...do you have some explaining to do?

That plastigauge is what the machine shop will probably use. For clearances between parts.

When I reinstall my oil pump...do I use any sealant with the new gaskets...if so, where?

Hello all. Sorry I don't have pics but I was wondering if there is supposed to be play in the oil pump shaft. I know side to side is bad but what about in and out...there's like 3/16th inch of play? Thanks, Justin Johnson

Hello. I heard that the sound you are hearing is the turbo back spooling. This is caused by the turbo spooling then the throttle plate closing all the pressure causes the trubo to try to spin backwards...but the exhaust is pushing the turbine one way and the boost is pushing against it. Which seems to be a bad thing. As soon as you install a Blow off valve (BOV) or bypass valve (BPV)(both are the same), which are commonly found on intercoolers, it will allow the air to 'Bypass' the throttle body and go back into the intake.

HOLY S BATMAN that's a huge intercooler. Nice setup..very clean

I have to give you guys some props. You didn't have an engine stand..that must have been annoying working on the engine while it dangled from a chain. And those manuals...makes me wonder how many people just threw in the towel when they did the timing to the book...and it didn't start. Good Job and welcome to the board!! I like the comment about the "G thang"

I asked the same question, a while back. DOJ = DOuble offset joint. The ends of the axle that all the movement occurs in. (holds the bearings)

I had this same problem. What I did as a band-aid was take out one of the front axles and put a outter stub in place(the end of the axle with the threads) so I could drive it until I got the replacement tranny. You have to drive it in 4wd which would power only the rear wheels. The tranny made a rattling noise but it didn't bind up the car, after I took the front axle out.

Hey. I taking a guess that your car is a 1980 Subaru. Welcome aboard.

Spinning a cup refers to the DOJs (DOuble offset joints, right?)... there are spots in them that the bearings of the axle shaft go into...like three channels...so the cup can "grip" the axle and transfer the rotation from the tranny stub to the wheels...they make it so they can slide in and out to make up for the up and down travel of the wheel. I hope somebody can explain this better. But, if you spun a cup...that means the channels in the DOJ have stripped and it will just spin around the axle... but I read your post again and I don't think that is your problem.

WOuld it bind up and make the car lurch and jump with loud clicks and metallic noises?