[HTi]Johnson

Does it do that when you aren't in 4wd? If so, grab the inner DOJ (axle cup) on the front differential and see if you can wiggle it up and down side to side(both sides)...if it moves more than you think it should it's probably the diff bearings or you could pull a front axle and put it in gear (2wd only) and give it a little gas. Hear the same noise? I had the same problem, I swapped the tranny out and then messed with the little bearing caps that have that keeper on it that's bolted to the tranny. I spun them off and wiggled the diff...then put the races back on the bearings...put the caps on and turned them until they are snug and put the keepers on. How tight should I have put those on? But I haven't got to try the tranny in a car yet, so I have no way to test to see if I fixed it.

Check all your axles for any signs of tears. You could have spun a cup, that pops out every now and then. Also, check your rear differential(diff). It should be a 3.900 Gear Ratio. There is a sticker on the back of the diff, it may have mud on it, so you will have to wipe it off. I had a car with similar problems...it was an 3.700 Gear Ratio Automatic Tranny with a 3.9 rear diff. It would make a clunk when I gave it gas, but I didn't realize that it had a 3.9 rear diff until the automatic tranny fried and I converted to a manual. Keep us up to date.

Hah this must be the season for the TOD (Tick of Death[light emphasis on death]). Ok, if it is coming from one side of your engine and the area of one cylinder, I'd bet it's a lifter. And you should change your oil to some cheap and light weight kind and substitute a quart of oil for a quart of marvel's mystery oil and run it fairly hard, not too hard for a while, the sound should go away. What this does is clear up and sludge or debris that might be blocking the oil ports. Once the sound goes away, do an oil change again with your normal oil. If it is coming from both sides of the engine, I'd say it's an oil pump problem...but check your oil filter, it may have collapsed (cheap ones do that). You can replace the oil pump seals, but when you are in there, check for any scaring of the aluminum from the brass(i think it's brass) gear. Keep us updated.

That's awesome...maybe you should market those?

My car is taking a break right now, I need to get a Oil Pressure guage to see if my oil pressure is too low... if it is I'll get an Oil Pump gasket kit. When I take the pump off, how do I know if it is ok, usuable?

Yeah where is your car?

Somwhere on the board someone was talking about putting a gear or somthing on the stub and running a hydraulic pump or something for accessories.

The oil isn't over 1200 miles old...I try to change it every month.

Yeah, i need to get an OIl Pressure guage installed :-\, it sounds like it is coming from the left (driver's) side. So, if I don't have a guage, how could I tell if it is lack of pressure or sticky hvlas?

Yeah I just developed the TOD on they way home. (1987 GL-10 Turbo), it's pretty bad, and I know that MMO or Seafoam can fix it, but the question is: Does the TOD make your Knock Sensor sense knock and retard the timing? Update: Hello. I tried all the usual things to get the TOD to go away. Oil change, oil chage with lihgter weight with ATF and another with Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO). Except for replacing the oil pump gasket (the mickey mouse one). I replaced it and drove for about 2 miles and it was gone. Just thought I'd update in case someone did a search...now they have a solution.

I think I didn't torque my wheels down. I worked on it on a Saturday and drove all day Sunday, then monday, it fell off. Made for a great Monday.

Yeah a couple weeks ago, my same wheel came off and went under a big truck towing a backho(e) excavator. Needless to say the wheel is toast. My car landed on the balljoin stub and completely ground it down to the control arm. Pretty much welded it to the arm. So I put my spare on and continued to work. So It could be your ball joint...just got so fubar'd it failed. Or your strut rod (trailing rod) could have failed...pics would be nice. But if no pics are available, I'd say look at your ball joint stub first...see if it didn't come out of the arm Then if it didn't, see if your control arm is bent...but I think you just cam out of the stub. Tell us what you find.

What kind of O2 sensor should I get? I checked out a couple parts stores...they have a lot of "Universal" ones, what should I look for?

I know my auto matic turbo axles are the same as a 5spd dual range...with 3.9 gearing..

Hello all. My 1987 GL-10 Turbo 5spd, is having some hesitation issues. I go WOT (even if I am not WOT) and it will feel like it is post detonating...not advancing. I checked the timing it's a 20btdc and codes...it gave me 32..for a bad O2 sensor, I didn't think that o2 sensors did that much, to make the car stumble like this. Thanks for your time. [HTi]Johnson

I think that a 4" lift gets you into some shady areas of lifted Subarus...3" lifts are more common and practical. As far as find a Subaru...check www.craigslist.org

OK, if you think of the mixing ratio 10 GALLONS! to 3 OUNCES...that's a very small ratio. That's 1280 ounces of gas to 3 ounces of acetone. That's a %0.2 acetone mixture. I highly doubt that it could harm any parts in a car that gas wouldn't harm. I'd say it's safe to use. Not to mention if you put 3 ounces to 14 gallons. Oh yeah, I'm trying it in my EA82T...although I did question the fact that the measuring container I used starting to deteriate when I poured acetone in it.

Come to think of it, it'd probably be as easy as doing an EJ swap. That's putting a newer generation of engine into your EA car. Idon't know what most people use, I think it is the EJ22 commonly found in legacy's ? I've seen a couple, and they have more power than an ea82 turbo.

You can talk to subaru_styles he did it. I'm referring him to this post as I type.

yeah. I'm going to have to try this.

Could you goto a fastener store... and see if they can come close to matching the lugs?

If you look at the CV axle, the Trans. side. There will be a hole that has a taper to it. And the axle stub will have a hole that has a slight taper to it too, those two go together. If you notice, I think, the taperd hole on the stub is drilled through one spline, going through the center of it, as the non tapered hole is drilled between two splines

My tranny is 3.900 and the diff is too AND I have a turbo wagon (dual range swap). But get this, my 1983 green subaru GL wagon I bought for $350 was an automatic. The guy was pissed that he kept going through automatic trannies all the time. I didn't know of this board when i got the car. It didn't go into 3rd...so I adjusted the bands according to the Haynes Manual, it worked. I drove the car for about 6 months and used it in the sand (4wd) a lot. And one time when my friend and I were going fast down gravel roads (not rallying because a Rally is an organized event where people's safety is held to higher standards) in 4wd and then I goton the asphault, where I put it in 2wd and then my car would stutter from shifting from 1rst to 2nd. I didn't want to try to fix the tranny. So I found this board and learned that I can convert it to a 4spd D/R tranny. I got a list of all the required parts and then I checked my rear diff for the hell of it...it was a 3.900. I don't get why it was....with an automatic and all. SO I think that was the reason for the tranny failure. Moral of the story? You can put a 3.9 diff to a 3.7 tranny and have it drive...for a little bit. But I heard if you put a 3.9 diff to a 3.7 tranny...and engage 4wd...you're gunna be hurting.

REar end as center diff? If that is the case, check the stickers on the back of the diff cover, and if the numbers match, it should work. They should say either 3.700 or 3.900

I would look for someone or a car in the area of Portland who has all the parts for your swap. It's a pretty straight forward swap on EA82s. Nothing to cut or weld. As for dual range or not, I'd say dual range, of course. Why not dual range? You can search or ask on the board the parts you'll need. I got all my parts and tranny for $200 from xsnrg.